i need to remove the guts from my lower end to repair a small crack in the housing. i have the repair manual but it looks like i need several special tools to do the job. anyone ever pull one of these apart? i have never worked on an outboard but have alot of mechanical skills(i run a tobacco farm) just want to know if this is over my head with regular tools.thanks...james
Your right it is a Job to do....If there is a way to repair the crack without disasembling ie: welding etc.. I would give that a try, if that works you can them flush the lower unit with gear oil a few times (until there isn't anymore Milk Shake colored oil) Assuming that is the problem.
hammer - Don't know the 250 but don't need to to advise you not to try to weld the gearcase without taking it completely apart. Go to the red "search" at the top of the page and enter "evinrude gearcase". There are over 100 posts on that alone and you can try other search arguements.You're motor should be pretty much the same as any OMC V4-6 only the parts may be a bit bigger.
used jb weld before works great. was used on jet ski crank case still holding today. cant remember the site but if you go to my "120 to 140 lv carbs" click on that boatersupply.com and get a parts diagram to help you. glad hooty added it to my thread. its great info
thanks for all the advice guy's! the crack is in front of the water pickup just above the rounded,bullit shaped part of the gearcase. it dosn't look like there are any bearings behind it so do you think i could have it welded without taking it apart?thanks again...james
Hello Hammer It's a tough call to make sitting here and not being able to see your crack. Some times these type cracks are caused by the drain holes in the lower unit getting plugged. They don't drain. the water, then it freezes and cracks the housing. Most of the time these can be welded up, no big deal. It just depends on where it is and how bad. Now if you were clipping along and hit a stump or backed over your motor at the boat ramp, you may have other problems as well.
alcan... the hole is a pin hole.when i wipe the oil dry,it takes 4-5minutes for it to start weeping out again.this boat is new to me and i havnt taken it out by myself yet so the pinhole was pre-existing.i have a friend that does amazing welding work. i think i am goung to risk it and have him tig the hole shut....james
Hammer, I would like to know if you are getting water in the gear oil. My V4 case has a weep/drain hole in the right side looking aft to forward that is supposed to be there. Make sure this hole is not by design as it may trap water in the casing where you don't want it to if welded closed. The hole has some mild saltwater corrosion around it so it looks like corrosion caused it, but it is supposed to be there. Good luck.
Just a thought. What ever you do...you'll have to stop the leak before you weld or fix. You have to get the oil out of the pin hole (blow with air, then solvent). Years ago on a race motor (Corvette, 350) we found a crack in the block from freezing about 4" long. I ground and cleaned the area and used 2-part epoxy to fix. Repainted with Orange paint. This lasted through many rebuilds, till I put a piston part through the block. My point is...can you clean up area and plug hole with small screw (aluminum) and then epoxy over? Might be worth a try. Feather out epoxy smooth and repaint. A final thought...possibly a small hole drilled, (to let oil drain completely out, 1/8") and countersunk, then epoxy, etc.
I agree with kart and mumbler. Make sure that the hole is not suposed to be there. If in fact it is leaking gear oil. you may have to disassemble it. I am not the worlds greatest welder. but I do know aluminium has to be clean to weld. I too have had exellent results with JB weld, in minor cases. It,s got to be clean for the JB also.
the crack is definatly no supposed to be there. i figure i will drain the gearcase,clean the hole and tru to use epoxey or have it welded. then i will refill the gearcase and repaint. is there a way to post pictures on this site? i could snap a shot of the crack and post it. ....james
hammer250v8,Send it to me, I will post it for you if you like. Also, I would have it welded, if possible. Then you don't have to worry about it.rickdb1@earthlink.net
Sand a spot about the size of a quarter around the hole,use a 1/4" drill bit (not in a drill motor) and clean up the hole, mix up you JB Weld, clean the spot with acetone, slap the JB Weld on it and warm up the area with a hair drier until JB sets up. I'll bet a sixpack it holds!c/6Hooty