1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

mark munro

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Aug 12, 2002
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I have a 1990 225hp Evinrude #VE225TXESS that the Regulator/Rectifier appears to have gone toes up in. I noticed the last time out that the voltage was reading 12VDC on the dash so I did some diagnostics with general knowledge and according to the service manual.<br /><br /> I noted the terminal voltage was 12.? volts sitting, I fired up the engine and noted that the voltage dropped to 10.5 volts or so and then stayed at the previous voltage reading of 12.? I then ran it up a few thousand RPM and had no change. I disconnected the red lead from the regulator and checked for current to ground at idle and a few thousand RPM, no one home. I then checked the Stator resistance and had 0.2 ohms across the yellow leads and each yellow to ground was open. So I bought a regulator today and this is where my question begins:<br /><br />FYI, I noted in a similiar post this same problem and solution but I'm still not sure what to do.<br /><br /> The old regulator has a Red (output) lead, two yellow (stator) leads, a dark grey lead, and a blue lead. The new pack just has a Red, two yellow, and a light grey lead. I know what to do with the Red, and two yellow leads but should I hook the light grey wire on the new pack up to the terminal block where the dark grey wire on the old pack was connected then leave the wire on the terminal block where the blue wire on the old pack was connected not connected to anything?<br /><br />This was from the archive:<br /><br />Just an update about the purple wire from the reg/rect. Bombardier engineers decided against putting the purple wire on the reg/rect. they did alittle re-engineering of it. I was intrigued by it not having one, so i called them up and found out the scoop.. not needed anymore!!<br /><br />Purple .... blue, I always get that wrong :)<br /><br />What was the purpose of the purple wire and is the grey wire for the tach?<br /><br />Thanks in advance,<br />Mark
 

hondon

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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

Gray wire is the tach lead.Purple wire is key on switched power but if you think about it ,WHATS THE POINT? When you aleady have unswitched battery voltage from the red wire?
 

mark munro

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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

Yup, installed the regulator/rectifier with the four wires, tach works. However, the charging system still is not working. It appears although the stator tested out ok with the resistance check it may be the stator. I'm getting 10VAC on the stator at idle and ~13VAC at a few thousand RPM. I'm trying to find out what this value should be. I'm thinking that there is a high resistance short in the winding that doesn't show up unless you put some current through it. I've had this happen on a truck starter that tested ok with an Ohm meter but sparked like crazy when the guy put his tester (current pump) on it.<br /><br />Mark
 

seahorse5

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Jan 24, 2002
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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

You said the stator resistance was OK, what was the reading you got using a low-ohm scale on a digital meter? Did you check for shorts to ground using a high-ohm scale on each yellow wire. Is there any indication of melted insulation on the black coils of the stator? Are there wing nuts on the battery terminals? <br /><br />To check charging you need a proximity ammeter, clip on ammeter, or a shunt type ammeter for the battery. You can use a digital voltmeter on the battery terminals and run the motor for a while. The voltage will stay near 12-13V if the battery is low and will rise as it charges up. The dash voltmeter may not accurately reflect the battery voltage.
 

mark munro

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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

>You said the stator resistance was OK, what was the reading you got using a low-ohm scale on a digital meter? <br /><br />.2 Ohms<br /><br />>Did you check for shorts to ground using a high-ohm scale on each yellow wire. <br /><br />Yes<br /><br />>Is there any indication of melted insulation on the black coils of the stator? <br /><br />Non that I can see. I'm pulling the flywheel today.<br /><br />>Are there wing nuts on the battery terminals? <br /> <br />Yes but I tighten them with an adjustable, no problems there, they're tight. I'll be switching to nuts though so I can use a socket instead.<br /><br />>The dash voltmeter may not accurately reflect the battery voltage. <br /><br />Yup, used a DVM.<br /><br />I checked the stator output on a friends Rude 150 and he has 20VAC at idle and up to 50VAC at a few thousand RPM. I have about 10VAC to 13VAC which I figured was way to low but I didn't check that after the resistance check.<br /><br />I still think that there is a high resistance short somewhere in the windings and it doesn't show up during a normal resistance check.
 

seahorse5

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Jan 24, 2002
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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

Stator resistance is .17 ohm which is very difficult to read unless you have a low-ohm reading meter and "zero" out the resistance of the test leads.<br /><br />IF you ran the motor and disconnected the red wire, the open circuit most likely fried the new regulator. Also make sure that the flywheel magnets are not broken, cracked, or have shifted together.
 

mark munro

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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

> Stator resistance is .17 ohm <br /><br />+/- .05 according to the book which makes .20 correct. I think my Fluke was reading just fine.<br /><br />> IF you ran the motor and disconnected the red wire, ....<br /><br />I said I disconnected the red lead from the regulator and checked for current to ground which meant that I ran it with an ammeter in series, not open.
 

seahorse5

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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

>> IF you ran the motor and disconnected the red wire, ....<br /><br />I said I disconnected the red lead from the regulator and checked for current to ground which meant that I ran it with an ammeter in series, not open. <<<br /><br />That is a direct short to ground, which may also damage a regulator. The 40amp ammeter should be in series with the red wire and the B+ post of the starter solenoid to always have a complete circuit and a "load" on it.
 

mark munro

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Aug 12, 2002
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Re: 1990 Evinrude Regulator/Rectifier replacement

Actually it was to the post it came off of on the solenoid not ground.
 
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