What is this hole for on my Evinrude?!?

TrenchFisherman · #1 July 29th, 2002, 06:24 AM

ON my 1979 200 hp Evinrude there is what seems to be a gas line hook up about half way up the block but all my fuel lines are hooked up. I did disconnect the oil line to my VRO pump and started mixing oil in the gas tanks. When i took it out for the first time after my rebuild it ran great for a while then sputtered. I ran it out of the water and noticed it would back fire out of that whole with flames shooting out of it. I plugged the whole and the sputtering went away. Does anyone know what that line is or was used for? If this doesn't make sense i will try to explain it again...just let me know

Dhadley · #2 July 29th, 2002, 07:07 AM

Sounds like the second pulse fitting used when using the two fuel pumps instead of the single oil/fuel pump. It should be plugged.

Good luck!

TrenchFisherman · #3 July 29th, 2002, 07:58 AM

I did a compression check before plugging the whole and it only read 75lbs on all cylinders. Could that hole be the reason why it is so low? Thanks for the info

Dhadley · #4 July 29th, 2002, 08:02 AM

If they are all 75 I wouldnt worry about that right now. You may have "soft" heads or thick head gaskets. Try a different gauge, check the heads and gaskets.

Did you get that fitting plugged?

TrenchFisherman · #5 July 29th, 2002, 10:30 AM

i got it plugged and it runs a lot smoother. what do you mean when you say a soft head? as i posted in the pastyou probably know this is the 1979 200 hp block running 150hp heads and carbs. would that make a compression difference?

Dhadley · #6 July 29th, 2002, 10:39 AM

It depends on which 150 heads you have. Get the numbers off them and we'll see if we cant figure out which ones you have.

Look at the top of the head gasket and there will be a little tab sticking up. Describe what that tab looks like. We need to know if the tab is straight across the top or not.

Good luck!

TrenchFisherman · #7 July 29th, 2002, 10:53 AM

i am at work right now til 330 eastern time but i know that the head gaskets have a tab i believe on the top nearer the exhaust side with an arrowing pointing to the exhaust. am i suppose to look at something specific?

TrenchFisherman · #8 July 29th, 2002, 01:01 PM

ok the head numbers are 321013-3 on a 79 Evinrude 200 bored .30 over. the only things i can see on the heads are part of the tabs away from the exhaust side and when installing it showed an arrow point to the exhaust side. i hope this helps

Dhadley · #9 July 29th, 2002, 01:29 PM

OK, we're getting close. Thats the part number for the thermostst cover. We aren't concerned about that nor the water jacket cover. We are after the head part numbers cast into the head. They will be toward the side and should be one number off from port to starboard.

On the head gasket tabs - is the tab straight across the top or does it have a notch or V cut in it?

Take your time and let me know.

TrenchFisherman · #10 July 29th, 2002, 01:44 PM

ok sorry about that...the numbers are 328324 on the left and 328325 on the right...the only thing i see on the head gasket is a tab sticking up no notch in it

Dhadley · #11 July 29th, 2002, 02:34 PM

Good. Thats a decent set. They used those in the mid 80's and later on the 150's, 175's and 185's if I remember right. They also used them on the 155 commercials too. They are a good set for todays fuel. Try the compression again but I think you are OK. You may think about doing the Engine Tune treatment to it especially if your top RPM's are down around 5500 or less.

Good luck!

TrenchFisherman · #12 July 29th, 2002, 07:26 PM

when i took it out the other day i couldn't get it above 4500 rpm's but i am mixing my fuel rich for the break in period so i didn't really want to push it too much. if i don't get more rpm's after the break in period what should i do?

Dhadley · #13 July 30th, 2002, 03:32 AM

Even on double oil you should be able to reach your target RPM's. Make sure you set the timing according to the manual for your specific block / heads combo. Do the sync and link. Are all cylinders firing? In the correct order?

Just follow your bible (service manual) and it will run perfect.

Good luck!

TrenchFisherman · #14 July 30th, 2002, 05:08 AM

i did take it to the local service center and they timed it...i will check to see if they are all firing and make sure the wires are all correct. thanks a lot for all your useful info.

Dhadley · #15 July 30th, 2002, 05:37 AM

Ask them (maybe you already know) how they set the timing (under a load or static) and what did they set it to?

Good luck!

TrenchFisherman · #16 July 30th, 2002, 06:11 AM

do you think that my throttle cables have to be reset for the larger motor? it seems like it has plenty of more power left in it but not enough throttle distance. the engine runs smoother than the 150 did it just doesn't feel like its opening up all the way.

Dhadley · #17 July 30th, 2002, 06:21 AM

Set the throttle to wide open (with the motor off! lol!) and look to see if the carbs are opened all the way. The timer base will hit the stop well before that.

The throttle linkage is all the same so the cables should be faily close to the same setting.

Let us know!

TrenchFisherman · #18 August 1st, 2002, 05:26 AM

ok i went to the lake yesterday and i made sure the carbs were fully open like you said. I ran it and still only got 4500 rpms. It ran a lot better (smoother) with the hole plugged. Do you think i need to change a prop because i am going up in horsepower? Also what plugs do you recommend? thanks

Dhadley · #19 August 1st, 2002, 05:34 AM

We need to find out where your RPM's went. Is this the same prop you were running before? At the same height? Is the timer base going to the stop? What is the timing set at? Use Champion plugs (Q)L77JC4 and 87 octane with good oil.

Let us know!

TrenchFisherman · #20 August 1st, 2002, 05:39 AM

that prop is all the same but i don't know about the timer plate. can i do that check out of the water by just pushing down on the throttle when it is off? quick question about overheating. i have been reading older posts saying that on a properly cooling engine you should be able to touch the engine for about 4 seconds without it burning your fingers. i tried that yesterday and i could not do that. Should i take out the thermostats and see if there are working properly? what temp should they be opening at?

TrenchFisherman · #21 August 1st, 2002, 07:26 AM

Dhadley · #22 August 1st, 2002, 08:30 AM

The timer base should move with the throttle arm and hit the stop (screw with a rubber bumper on it).

Once more - whats the timing set at?

TrenchFisherman · #23 August 1st, 2002, 09:34 AM

lol...when it comes to electronics i am clueless, i took it to the local dealer and they said they timed it but i don't trust those guys anymore after this last tune up. when i go home i will check it out and get back to ya... sorry for so many questions but you seem very knowledgeable about motors and are helping me out tremendously

Dhadley · #24 August 1st, 2002, 11:51 AM

You need to check the timing under a load at as close to WOT as possible. Set the timing pointer to make sure its on TDC. Check timing on cylinders 1 and 2. They should be within a degree of each other.

Let us know!

TrenchFisherman · #25 August 1st, 2002, 12:50 PM

ok the timer base does not hit the screw...its about 1/8th of an inch away from it. is there a way to adjust it?