'62 40 hp Evinrude Lark IV, smokes, wouldn't go into gear

janmcf · #1 June 20th, 2002, 07:04 PM

Our "new" boat with the above motor stranded us the first time out. Seller said it had problems, but we got it so cheap, we took the risk. It starts great, but smokes. Then after a few hours, it refused to go into gear. The cable was working the lever on the side of the motor, but to no avail. Met the nicest people while being towed :-)

While on dry land, putting the boat into gear causes torque on the prop, and turning the prop causes the gear to turn, so now we're thinking about putting it back into the water and trying again

BTW, can someone confirm the year and HP on our engine? Model number is 35530. I don't think that sounds like enough digits, but that's all that's on the plate.

We've ordered the manual, but meanwhile, should we adjust the fuel mixture? Also, it came from sea level, and we're 4,200 ft. We probably should have dumped out the old gas too.

Jan

Joe Reeves · #2 June 20th, 2002, 08:44 PM

Jan.... That model number of 35530 identifies your engine as a 1962 40hp Evinrude.

Your explanation of the shifting problem sounds like you may simply have a slipping hub in the propeller. The prop is actually a three (3) piece item.... a (1) bronze hub that has a (2) vaulcanized rubber section fused to the (3) propeller. Try a different prop to see what effect it has.

The carburetor adjustment sequence is as follows.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable N/V)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

janmcf · #3 June 21st, 2002, 08:54 AM

Thanks, Joe. We'll try that as soon as we get a chance. BTW, after posting my first post, I discovered that the gear at the end of the "slow/fast/start" shaft has been sheared off. Looks like that's the first thing we'll have to replace. Hope that sucker isn't down in the foot. I think we'll take the bottom off the motor first thing and do an inspection. My husband thinks the pee hole is plugged, too. From reading other posts, I see it should "pee" a steady stream, not just a spray.

Jan

oldboat1 · #4 June 21st, 2002, 10:56 AM

There is no tell-tale on that motor. A heavy spray will be coming from the exhaust port on the back of the leg if the impeller/cooling system is working properly. (The spray should start in earnest after the thermostat opens.) I believe that motor has a double walled leg (exhaust housing) -- not sure that is what it is called, but the outer shell of the upper leg should come off without removing anything else. If anything dropped down into the leg, it's probably in there.

janmcf · #5 June 22nd, 2002, 10:09 AM

Thanks, Oldboat1. Glad to know we weren't damaging anything while running it with the mickey mouse ears. Now, dumb question. Can anyone tell us where exactly the needle valve is? My husband has a basic understanding of engines, but it's not apparent.

Jan

janmcf · #6 June 22nd, 2002, 01:00 PM

Never mind, he took the carb apart to clean it and has it covered now.

Jan

janmcf · #7 June 24th, 2002, 07:56 AM

Well, thanks to the excellent advice, the motor now runs great! One little problem, it still doesn't want to go into forward. When we first started it, it would sort of stay in gear if my husband leaned back and pulled the lever on the side of the motor as hard as he could. It still jumped in and out. Then it stopped doing even that little. Reverse works great, tho. Not to be deterred from fishing, we struggled out of the marina and employed our shiny new trolling motor. Caught a nice walleye and a bunch of catfish, mmmmmm. Then, never ones to be afraid to look foolish, we reversed our way back to the marina.

We will look at the prop as advised earlier. Is there anything else it could be? Linkage, maybe? We don't have a prop lying around to troubleshoot with.

Franki · #8 June 24th, 2002, 08:53 AM

be careful going in reverse in that thing if you have not changed the impeller recently, the water pickup is in a low pressure enviroment when in reverse. (keep an eye on the motor and see if the head is getting hot.. it should only be warm. my paint (on the heads) would start smoking if I went in reverse for more then a minute or so.

Also, as a possible solution, I had a 63 Lark 40 (selectric) and I swapped the forward and reverse clutches around.. it might be possible on the manual gbox version as well..

mine would jump out of gear all the time when in forwards at high rpm, but reverse was fine.. so I swapped the clutches around and it was fine in both forward and reverse.. (nobody goes reverse at WOT anyway, so the clutch was good enough for that.)

The gears were identical and it ran like that for ages. Its a bit of a job getting the gearcase about and working it all out. But I did it without a manual and no specialised tools, and I'd never seen inside a gearcase before.. so if I can do it, anyone can. (but be careful and take your time, I take no responsibility if you try it and get stuck. :-)

but like I said, ,that was a Selectric model, which I think was a 63 or 64. the manual version may have had different clutches and only a manual will tell you. (or one of these good people.)

rgds

Frank

janmcf · #9 June 24th, 2002, 01:18 PM

Thanks, we'll pull it apart and look this week. Funny, I was joking about doing something similar - didn't know it could be possible. Only thing is, ours won't go in forward at ANY throttle rate, but I'd be willing to sacrifice reverse for forward, at least to get us thru the summer, then major surgery and rebuild this winter. We can reverse with the trolling motor if needed.

Jan

janmcf · #10 June 26th, 2002, 07:19 PM

Well, hubby pulled apart the gear assembly, and sure enough, the notch on the forward gear that is engaged by the clutch dog is rounded off. So, we swapped the forward and reverse gears. Decided to replace the impeller while we were making a mess all over the concrete driveway, so don't have it all back together to test yet, but tomorrow we should know. Thank you everyone for the great advice, it is appreciated very much!!!

Jan