85 Crestliner 16 Rebuild

eboat85

eboat85

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I just pulled the engine from our Crestliner and found, as I suspected, that the top of the transom was bowed out. I was surprised to find that the wood inside the mounting holes was hard. I can only figure that somewhere in the transom the wood got wet and the force of the engine and time allowed it to warp.

Even though it feels solid, is the only option to replace the wood or is there another option?
 

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jigngrub

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

The only repair for a bad transom is to replace it.
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

That is what I thought.

I know these are some basic questions so thanks for bearing with me.

The wood plate appears to be only a little over a foot tall and looks like it can be exposed by removing the splash pan. Are the rivets in the picture readily available? It looks like once they are drilled out and the pan removed the transom would be easy to get at.

Also, does the wood replacement have to be built or is it available in sizes that are then cut to fit?

Sorry for the pictures, they rotate when I load them.
 

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eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Here is a better look at the splash pan rivets.
 

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jigngrub

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

eboat85 said:
That is what I thought.

I know these are some basic questions so thanks for bearing with me.

The wood plate appears to be only a little over a foot tall and looks like it can be exposed by removing the splash pan. Are the rivets in the picture readily available? It looks like once they are drilled out and the pan removed the transom would be easy to get at.

Also, does the wood replacement have to be built or is it available in sizes that are then cut to fit?

Sorry for the pictures, they rotate when I load them.
Click to expand...

Rivets can be a pain to find locally, but are readily available for purchase online. I buy all of my rivets and rivet tools from Jay Cee's online:
Rivets | Buy Rivets | Rivet tools - Rivet Nuts & Other Specialty Fasteners
They carry just about every rivet known to man.

The rivets with the hole in the center are blind rivets and are very easy to use and install.

You can also use stainless steel nuts and bolts or screws instead of rivets if you want, but rivets are much cheaper that stainless hardware.

The wood for your transom will have to be cut to size, fabricated, and installed.

Carefully remove the old wood and use it as a pattern for the new wood. The majority of transoms are 1-1/2" thick which is 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood bonded together with a waterproof adhesive.

After you make your new transom wood you'll want to seal it before you install it. You can use a number of different sealers from a good oil based exterior paint, exterior urethane sealer, marine varnish, or the very best is marine grade epoxy resin which can be bought online here:
Epoxy :?Epoxy Resins and Hardeners

Take the time to look at some of the aluminum boat transom replacement threads in this forum before you start your project and the job will be a breeze.
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Thanks for your suggestions JnG, i appreciate your help!!

i have been ready so many different posts on building transoms that I think I only ended up with a few hours sleep last night! I have gone from being a nervous wreck to looking forward to digging in.

It looks like 1/2" is about right and the biggest job will be taking the splash well off to get to the inside transom surface. Actually since this is a new to me boat, I am looking forward to doing this in a way just to see what is under there and get things cleaned up and correct. Any hints how to take the drain tubes out? It looks like they are formed in place.

I have already sent an email to Jay-Cee to get that ball rolling.

Is marine grade plywood available at most building stores? Menards, Home Depot.....etc.
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

You can use Ext. Grade plywood. NEVER use Pressure Treated Plywood on an aluminum boat!!!!
Arauco is a very good quality brand. Make sure to seal the edges really well and fill any voids. 2-3 coats of rustoleum Pro Oil based paint and the transom will last for years. Always predrill and coat the holes and hardware with a quality marine sealant when installing things on the transom.
 
Pmccraney

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Also, make sure the blind pop rivets you buy are "closed end" 3/16 diameter with 1/4 grab will work for most situations on your boat.
 
jigngrub

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Well if it's a new to you boat, you might as well lift the decking too and check your floatation foam for waterlogging/saturation (and decking for rot on the bottom side).

Wet floatation foam adds hundreds of pounds to a boat and slows it down, the wet foam also has no buoyancy and won't float your boat in case of an emergency and it'll sink to the bottom.

To check your foam take a piece of 3/4" pvc pipe and cut some notches in one end and twist/push the notched end down through the foam 'til it hits bottom, Pull the pipe out and push the test plug out with a small rod check the bottom of the plug of foam for moisture/wetness.

Hint: if the bottom of your decking is wet, your foam will probably be saturated.
 
jbcurt00

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Drain tubes on an aluminum boat are probably aluminum. Any means necessary to remove them, but a hack saw blade can be used to slice a slot in it and fold the tube in on itself to remove it.

A sharp chisel tapped around the edge can also drive the flange into the center of the tube & allow it to be driven/pulled out.

Depends a little on the transom's condition & whether the tube has ever been replaced (like during a transom rebuild) or had a previous owner gob it up w/ sealant to minimize water leaks....

It is extremely unlikely you'll be able to remove the tubes in any condition to be reusable anyway, so.......
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Woodonglass said:
You can use Ext. Grade plywood. NEVER use Pressure Treated Plywood on an aluminum boat!!!!
Arauco is a very good quality brand. Make sure to seal the edges really well and fill any voids. 2-3 coats of rustoleum Pro Oil based paint and the transom will last for years. Always predrill and coat the holes and hardware with a quality marine sealant when installing things on the transom.
Click to expand...

It looks like I can get the plywood and other materials locally. Living next to the Mississippi River must make it a common item in their inventories. I have read a bunch of threads on building a transom and the one that I liked was the gluing together with gorilla glue and then screwing the halves together four inches apart on the edges and six on the inside surface. The only thing that I was not able to find is the reason that the screws need to be removed after the glue has hardened and before the sealant is applied. Is it due to corrosion?

Guess I have more reading but come Monday the interior around the splash pan will start to come out.
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Ok, thanks. The places that I will need to use the rivets are all on interior areas and spaces. I won't have to replace any that go thru the hull.
 

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eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

My gut feeling is that there was minimal water that got to the floor. It is solid and dry on the surface and hard when it is tapped by a mallet. All the fasteners , screws are clean and their isn't any slim residue in the nooks and crannies that I have seem on Thoreau boats that have sat out in the weather or had too much water get in.

I am going to pull the center floor panel so I can get to the in-floor 18 gal fuel tank to clean it out and check the wiring. Tis will give me a change to look over the foam in the center of the hull floor ...... Thanks for your tip, I will definitely try it since I don't take anything for granted on a boat that I don't know! ;-)
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

jbcurt00 said:
Drain tubes on an aluminum boat are probably aluminum. Any means necessary to remove them, but a hack saw blade can be used to slice a slot in it and fold the tube in on itself to remove it.

A sharp chisel tapped around the edge can also drive the flange into the center of the tube & allow it to be driven/pulled out.

Depends a little on the transom's condition & whether the tube has ever been replaced (like during a transom rebuild) or had a previous owner gob it up w/ sealant to minimize water leaks....

It is extremely unlikely you'll be able to remove the tubes in any condition to be reusable anyway, so.......
Click to expand...

Thanks, I am pretty sure that everything on this boat is original and I would expect the same With the drain tubes. The hack saw tip should do the trick. I just didn't want to go tearing something out that I would have to reuse later.

Is there a source that everyone uses for replacements?
 
jbcurt00

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Iboats sells them.
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

jbcurt00 said:
Iboats sells them.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I found a diagram on the web that shows how to make a tube installation tool with a bolt, couple of flat washers and a lock nut ...... I think that even I can make that work!

I was hoping to start taking the splash well apart today but my daughter decided it was time to move her furniture. Funny how little control I have. :lol:
 
jbcurt00

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Yep, that diagram is popular here too:
FlaringTool.jpg


Compliments of an iboats member...........
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

jbcurt00 said:
Yep, that diagram is popular here too:
FlaringTool.jpg


Compliments of an iboats member...........
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the one. Now if I can wrap my brain around all the different ways I have read that are used to make a new transom I will be set! :eek:

I guess I better get the old one out first before I start planing the replacement.
 
eboat85

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Aaarrrgggg..... Foam. I can tell that no one has been under here.

If I read construction correctly, it looks like I will Ned to cut out some foam and remove the bench top. Once that is out I should be able to drill the rivets and pull out the splash pan. That is after dealing with more foam.

The only piece that is still a mystery is the narrow piece of padded side trim that extends onto the splash pan. There is a fastener in there somewhere that screws into the back but I haven't found a way to it yet.

The bottom engine mount hole is right at the bottom edge of the transom plate. Rough measure the transom is only about 11" tall. Not much to hold a 90 hp on. I am planning in making an aluminum cap plate that is a 1/4" thick that will go over the top lid of the transom from top inner engine mounts holes and then down well past the lower mount holes. I am also thinking about 20" wide. The engine will mount to that and should distribute the load over a bigger area. I will sketch something and post it for clarity.

I was going to post a few more pics but I was having trouble with the upload. Sorry

I just noticed the picture is loaded upside down! Next time I will crop before loading... Oops
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Ok, to build your transom, I'd recommend the following...

2 pieces of 3/4 plywood. Titebond III wood glue. (Gorilla Glue if you want but not needed) 1 1/4 " Deck screws. Cut the plywood to size and then glue and screw it together @ 4" to 6" spacing. Leave or remove the screws, your choice. Those screws will be sealed in, and will last the life of the boat. I used to say remove em but really no reason to. Seal the wood with your choice of methods. Epoxy is the BEST. Multiple coats of Marine Varnish is also very good. 3-4 coats of a good Oil Based paint will make it last many years. Most important thing is the edges. That's where water will attack first and easiest. Make sure they get sealed well. I like the old timers method for sealing wood. 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil, 1 part Mineral Spirits and 1 part Varnish or Polyurethane. Mix it all up and soak the wood with it. Wipe of the excess and let dry for 48 hours. Paint the wood and it'll be sealed for decades. Always remember to pre-drill and coat the holes and hardware with a good quality marine sealant, like 3M 4200 or 5200 and your transom will last as long as the boat.
 
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