1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

I have this motor on a Stratos bass boat. It has been a unbelievable motor. Could not tell you the how many gallons of gas has been put thru this motor. I fish 18 tournaments a year. So, it owes me nothing.

Here is my issue: Last fall fishing my last tournament running up lake in the morning the motor shut off at WOT like you turned the key off. I fueled up that morning so thought I had water. Switched to the Port tank, motor ran fine. Drained the tank and thought the problem was cured.

This spring the motor did it again, shut of at WOT but seemed like when running at 55 or slower the problem went way. So I figured it was a fuel issue at WOT. Changing all the lines and decided to tear apart the tank switching valve. Sure enough found two broken o rings and one was on the top side of the plastic plate plugging the fuel hole. (Thought I had found my problem) Had to go with a manual valve because the plastic switching valve is no longer available.

Took the boat out and sure enough did it again in the morning running to my spot. Kinda dangerous because not good running 63 mph boats up your butt and the motor just shuts down. This time I checked the squeeze ball and it was hard, so all the fuel was in the carbs.

With a hard squeeze ball all the motor would do is roll over and not start. I was happy in away because I though finally I will be able to find the issue. (Electrical or fuel) Came back to the key, turned it a few times, it fired up. So I am thinking key issue. Ran the boat wiggled the key, tapped the key could not make it quite.

So, the only thing I can pin point is, when the motor is somewhat cold, first run in the morning, this happens. After I run the motor three our four miles, I can run her 63 MPH and it never misses a beat. So here I set??????????? The only thing that has been done to the motor is the VOR pump was changed in 2005, and I change the Regulator in 2011.

I do now think it is electrical. I am going to change the key. Not sure about the emergency shut down switch, I also have tapped and wiggled when running. But no problem. I think I will buy pass it also just to rule it out. But the consistent thing that happens is when the motor is warmed up, the problem goes away. Key and e stop should not know the difference. Fuel issues out side the motor, should not care. (The tanks, pick up lines and so on) All of the above should continue to happen with the motor warm or cold

Remember original power pack, Vapor pump has never been touched. Carbs have been rebuilt once. The only consistent thing I have is she just shuts off, once in a while before it shuts down it will hitch, and even if I back of the throttle, it may still hitch and then just shut down. But the problem goes away after the motor is run for a while.

Any ideas? Has anyone had this issue? If so what cured it. Power pack?????? I will do the basic things tonight, check all the grounds and for any lose wires. By pass the e-stop and try to get my hands on a new key switch.

My fish off is in two weeks, I need to get her fixed. We have no go local boat repair shops, just $60 per hour mechanics and they bolt on parts to trouble shoot the problem.

Any suggestions would be great!!!!!

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

You are describing what I call a "lean seize" condition. Not lean sNeeze, but lean seize. Running WOT with a lean cylinder will cause that piston to swell up in size due to the heat from the lean condition. It cascades into a situation that seizes the engine up, it shuts down, cools for just a few mins, maybe a few seconds, and is able to re-start. The fact this does it when you are WOT is the clue. It seems as if someone just turned the key off, doesn't it? At this point I would do a compression check. I would not be surprised if you find one cyl much lower than the others. The root of the problem will probably be in fuel delivery at WOT from the fuel pump, OR possibly a clogged HS main jet in one of the carbs. I hope I am wrong, as this will require a rebuild, due to the cyl damage. Double check the warning system, specifically the vacuum switch on the incoming fuel line (ref # 26 on the fuel bracket parts page) for correct operation, too. If you have fuel restriction on incoming fuel, that warning horn should sound.

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

daselbee,

I will check the compression. But maybe with my long winded post I confused you a bit.

When I first was trouble shooting the issue I thought it was only happening at WOT. It is now happening at lower throttle speeds and only the first run in the morning.

If the condition you are talking about was happening, that would happen after the boat was warmed up wouldn't it? And continue to be worse as the motors is warm. It is only happen on the first three or four mile run. After that, the boat runs like a clock. Never misses, never quits,Low throttle or WOT. Maybe I am wrong, I will check the compression for sure. I also will check the other things you suggested.

The only consistence I have is it happens when I make my first run. And I do idle the motor enough before starting off for the thermostats to open and the engine gets up to temp.

What do you think? Would this low compression allow me to run the same speed the motor has always ran? 63mph after she warms up. I would think I would notice some speed loss????????????????

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

Daselbee,

Did the compression test. All cylinders are 95 to 100. Nothing lower then 95.

I have installed all new gas lines on both tanks, new squeeze ball, and checked all the wiring from the key switch back and everything test out good. Like I said, I want this thing to stop and stay stop so I can figure it out. I do not feel it is fuel related because when it happens the squeeze ball is hard. So I am thinking I may need to make a list of things that will shut the boat off.

I know in the power pack there is a rev limiter circuit. Will that shut the boat down or just put it to low RMP? I have come up with the following list of killing the power like shutting the key off.

1. Key switch
2. e-stop
3. Neutral safety switch
4. Rev limiter???????

Am I forgetting anything. Boy my gut is say try a new power pack. If it was the stator it would run on at least 3 cylinders, am I right saying that???

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

Stalker
I hope this does not lead you in the wrong direction. I had a recent experience with my 1995 150 (looper). It had run great for years without anything more than basic maint. Last year it began having episodes where it would just shut down. The first couple times it happened i checked the kill switch because it shut down like it had been pulled. No stumbling or warning; it just shut down. In the beginning it always started right back up and ran fine. Eventually it began to be difficult to restart and i even had to use the trolling motor to get back to shore a couple times.
Still it wouldn't happen every time out. I have a Stratos F/S. I could go out pulling kids on the tube for three hours and never have problem, then next time out fishing it would die two or three times in the 3 minute ride across the lake.
Over the course of a few months I had it in to two different 'Evinrude Certified' boat shops. They concentrated on fuel and carbs (and making money). Well, after weeks in the shops and $1200 I still couldn't get across the lake.
I began checking everything I could because I thought it was electrical since it shut off so suddenly. I have a Clymer and OEM manual. Anyway, I checked ignition switch, kill switch, neutral switch, the black/yellow 'kill wire' for shorts, harness wiring.....
In the end the only thing left was the PowerPack. 30 minute install of a new PowerPack and the problem disappeared.

I truly wish you well on this. Intermittent problems are a pain.
Wxman

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

S.wxman

This is the answer I was looking for. You experienced the exact same issues. Mine started last fall in my fall fish off tournament. Shut off like water in the gas. Then did it a couple times in the spring and would start right back up. This past Sunday in a tournament is the first time it shut down and it would not start when I first hit the key. I felt the squeeze ball and it was hard. So I really was feeling it was electrical. As I started my post, this motor has been amazing, it owes me nothing and is well worth the price of a power pack. After reading your post, I will place the order for a power pack. Did you get yours on the web? If so who do you suggest? Right here on Iboats seem to be a fair price for a OEM.

A big thanks to you for sharing your information.

Stalker170

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

I happened to get mine, a CDI, from outboardigntion.com. I was told CDI used to make the OMC powerpacks and that BRP now used a different source. I thought I was getting a better deal than OEM price, but later found out that OEM powerpack for my engine included a new optical timing sensor (OIS ignition). The CDI did not include the new optical sensor, but I didn't need it anyway.
Even though I went with the CDI I wouldn't hesitate on OEM either. I gave the local shops a chance; I didn't reward them with a parts sale after they both 'fixed' the wrong thing.

Good luck
Wxman

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

If you replace the pack replace the OIS sensor at the same time. It could also be the problem. Or just do one at a time.

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

wxman,

Thanks for the help. The power pack cured my problem. This is the best my boat has run in years. Idles like a champ and runs perfect.

Thanks so much!!!!!

Re: 1993 150 6 cylinder Intruder (Need your Help to figure this one out)

Glad to hear it. I am no mechanic. Just passed along my experience. My boat is still in good shape too.

Happy boating