90 evinrude overheat

drw

Cadet
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
7
I hava a 82 90hp evinrude. At 3/4 thro runs fine. If you run wot will get overheat alarm after maybe one minute. Have changed water pump. Get strong water stream out of indicator. Help???????
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,619
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Do you have water out of the two 1/2 holes below cowling at idle?
Get strong water stream out of indicator
Dont mean much as you can have a good pisser and no cooling due to water flow design..
 

drw

Cadet
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
7
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Do you have water out of the two 1/2 holes below cowling at idle?

Dont mean much as you can have a good pisser and no cooling due to water flow design..

Will check tomorrow thanks
 

schematic

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,102
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Check for :
- poppet relief valves stuck closed or plugged up
- water deflectors (under water jacket covers) shifted out of place
- leaking head gasket
- max. timing too high
- fuel starvation
 
Last edited:

drw

Cadet
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
7
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Check for :
- poppet relief valves stuck closed or plugged up
- water deflectors (under water jacket covers) shifted out of place
- leaking head gasket
- max. timing too high
- fuel starvation
Thanks Ran today. Water coming out of both holes good below cowling when first started run. Temp ran 155 on rt side and 185 on l side. Ran at wot temp went to 180 on rt and 200+ on l side. Seemed as though water did not come out of holes under cowling near as good. Back home on cuff only small spits of water out of holes.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Thermostats or...................

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.
 

drw

Cadet
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
7
Re: 90 evinrude overheat

Thermostats or...................

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Thanks I will look at that. The thermostat, is there one, two or 4.
 
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