Removing deck and stringers

Ok, I want to make sure I get this right. I shouldn't remove the deck, flooring and stringers all at oncew unless I block the hull from undeneath first to make sure the hull doesn't lose it's shape. Is this correct?<br /><br />I have a 1971 Glastron Bayflite model V163. The floor, stringers and transom are rotten. I msut replace it all. The hull has a shelf under the enclosed bow. Under the shelf there is the continuation of the flooring which is also rotted. Under that is the point at which the main stringer starts and runs the length of the boat. I also have a stringer on either side of this one that start about four feet back from where the main stringer starts. In order to replace the main stringer I must remove the dewck from the hull to gain access. If someone could give me a proper order of restoration for these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Such as <br /><br />First the transom<br />second the stringers<br />third the floor<br /><br />Or whatever the best sequence should be.

Re: Removing deck and stringers

Originally posted by WarDogRiverRat:<br /> <br />First the transom<br />second the stringers<br />third the floor<br />Or whatever the best sequence should be.

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You're going to find you need to take the floor out before you can get to the stringers. The stringers are like little "beams" or "joists" under the floor.<br /><br />I found there to be as many posts here saying one way or the other; stringers first / or transom first. <br /><br />I think the important thing to take away from these posts is, do one at a time.<br /><br />the book Runabout Renovation says floor fisrt. One memeber here says he did one stringer at a time. More time consuming but more careful. I have a small boat which luckily was never designed with stringers and I cured the floor with the deck set back on top.<br /><br />I'd block the hull anyhow before you take the deck off, and no matter how much you plan to remove at one time.<br /><br />The condition of your boat is also going to affect which you take out first. If you only have a couple small spots of rot you can see in the transom but the floor feels firm and you THINK you might be able to save the floor and stingers, but you KNOW you have to do the transom, you might to the transom first and use the amount of floor you have to cut back to take the transom out as an opportunity to inspect the under floor conditions.<br /><br />Keep in mind I'm not boat builder or expert. I'm only a first timer who is 3/4 through his own rebuild of a simple boat and did about a months' reading up in places like this.

Re: Removing deck and stringers

It depends on the size of the boat and the way it sits on the trailer. I have to assume V163 is a 16'3" boat. That size of boat should not lose its shape if you rip all the structure out. Seeing as its a 1971, can I assume it is a tri-hull? Tri-hulls are not as prone to "spreading" as a V-hull could, but even still, a 16 foot boat on a decent trailer will not lose its shape. You need to replace the transom first, followed by the stringers, and the floor last. That is the only way to get a good solid rebuild. Also, before you do anything, take lots of measurements. Especially the width of the floor. I took measurements of floor width every two inches. Then you can do random measurement checks as you proceed through the project. You will find that there will be virtually no difference at the floor level. The hull will spread a bit at the top where it joins the upper deck, but that is easily remedied when you join the upper deck back to the hull. <br /><br />Also, when you glass your stringers in mix your resin to take a little longer to kick off. You do not want the stringer curing with your body weight in the shell. Even with it well blocked, the pressure of your weight in the shell could cause hull bottom distortion if a nearby stringer cures with that distortion. That is why I did mine one stringer at a time. That way the shell was in its perfect shape. <br /><br />When you gut a shell, and leave it for several days, it reverts back to its out-of-mold shape. Hull bottoms take on distortion over time due to structure rot and sitting on a trailer. By letting the empty shell set for a few days, that distortion disappears, and the shell itself does not weigh enough to create more distortion. Hope that makes sense. Good luck....

Re: Removing deck and stringers

It is a 16' V hull. The trailer only supports it at 4 points. 2 aft and 2 forward. One of the problems I'll have in measuring is that when my uncle had it, in 1993 we found a soft spot and took it to the shop to have the floor section replaced. Unfortunately all they did was put a new floor on top of the old and glassed it over in a **** poor fashion and now both decks are rotten. I'm going to block the bottom and brace the interior to match the exterior blocking points on the sides of the hull. For the blocking on the bottom of the hull I'm going to take long 2x4s and kerf them so that as I go along the underside with my blocking the 2x4 will naturally conform to the shape of the hull. I figure 2 of these per side under the hull should keep it in shape. how does that sound?

Re: Removing deck and stringers

Hey Jason a little side note that might be coincidently funny. I too am a Sergeant, U.S.Army, VA Army Nat Guard. 1999-2004