No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Used boat I bought has no audible alarm that I can see. The shift controller is am OMC Binnacle Mount without the key switch. Where do I get the audible alarm is it aftermarket or just OEM? Part numbers? I have a 1990 John 115 V4 crossflow.

Maybe an electrician out there can show me how to rig a custom audible alarm that shocks me also, to make sure I take action immediately!

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

the normal side control box has the alarm built into it.
i would imagine the binnacle has a seperate alarm that can be fitted as well.
you need to look up the parts manual and wiring diagram to see what parts you need.
this may not ever of been fitted to your boat !!!!!
audiable alarms are very easy to rig up, and nice and cheap at electrical stores, but very expensive from OEM parts.
i got s simple single sounding alarm for ?3 thats about $5 us money and seen even cheaper on ebay but i was in a ruch ha ha .
mine is just set to go off at over heat as i have got rid of VRO and gone back to safe pr-mix, so no need for oil alarms etc.

there is plenty of people on here who im sure will advise on parts and part numbers etc


phill

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Klink said:

Used boat I bought has no audible alarm that I can see. The shift controller is am OMC Binnacle Mount without the key switch. I have a 1990 John 115 V4 crossflow.

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A binnacle control mounted on a console...............

Look under the console at the wiring harness that leads from the engine to the ignition switch etc. There will be a TAN wire leading from that harness to a slide on terminal closest to as built in black ground wire on a over priced black plastic warning horn (or at least there should be), then a PURPLE wire should be leading from the remaining slide on terminal of the horn to the "A" (accessory) terminal of the ignition switch.

That TAN wire of the wiring harness leads to the overheat sensors that are protruding from the cylinder heads. The "A" terminal of the ignition switch is supplied voltage ONLY when the key is in the ON or START position.

Before we go any further, let us know what you find.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Got a crick in my neck getting inside the center console to follow the wires, it's a mess down there. Will have to organize the wiring when I get the engine functioning right. Here's what I found:

The tan wire coming from the engine harness is disconnected at the center console end, it has a female spade fitting at the end and it is not connected to anything. Same goes for the purple wire, it comes from the harness to the console and has a female spade at the end with a second purple wire both crimped to the spade. The purple wire spade is not attached to anything, and the second crimped purple wire goes from there to the starter switch (sorry, can't reach it to see which terminal of the starter it is), and from the same switch terminal, another purple wire goes out to a three pole female plug connector, which has no male connected to it, it is connected to nothing. That purple wire goes to that female plug connector which is composed of three wires the purple, a black, and a gray on one side and the three pole female plug connector on the other end.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

You're all set to add a generic 12 volt buzzer / horn under your console. Radio shack has them with 1/4 in. male spades for under $10. The purple wire is +12 v when the ignition switch is "on". The tan wire becomes ground when the temperature sensor gets hot, and the horn sounds. Test it by unplugging the tan wire at the cylinder head sensor and ground the harness side with the ignition switch "on", the horn should sound. Do you have VRO? It's also connected to the alarm circuit.
The 3 wire plug w/ purple, grey, black wires is for a tach.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Klink.... Good incoming information from "Kjdunne" (above). Nothing I would want to add to that.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Great stuff from both of you. Thanks

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

From the Mallory link, SC628N-1 and SC628MN both look good. Radio Shack model 273-68 looks just like them, has terminals for either continous or pulsed tone, and is weatherproof. I've used one for years. None of these will give you the single short beep at key turn-on, you'll need the $75 ish BRP warning horn for that feature. In another post, Joe Reeves suggested wiring a momentary switch between the tan wire terminal and ground to give you a "test" function. Thanks Joe, good idea, I think I'll add one to mine.

Tach wiring: purple = +12v, black = ground, grey = signal. Set selector switch on back of tach, if there is one, to 6.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

I bought Radio Shack 273-066. One of the reviews said they have had these many of these in extremely corrosive environment for 25 years and they still work. Made in Taiwan. It comes with two wires to which I attached the male spade fitting of which I have a bunch. It's 92db, but I had to mount it in the center console facing toward the opening on the stern side where the pilot drives. So, it won't get wet, and no one will see it. It's plenty loud, and get's the job done. I didn't see your recommendation for 273-68 till after I had installed the other one.

I tested the alarm by grounding at the engine side like you said and the alarm works on both sides. At least the wiring harness is good, not sure about the temperature switches. I ran the engine three minutes or so at idle with a Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer W/Laser Sight and got 183 degrees maximum on port side and 104 on the port. No alarm went off, but the manual says it goes off at 203 +- 6 degrees. Sounds like I'm going to have to go at the thermostats, by what I read, a big hassle.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Klink said:

I ran the engine three minutes or so at idle with a Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer W/Laser Sight and got 183 degrees maximum on port side and 104 on the port.... Sounds like I'm going to have to checkthermostats, by what I read, a big hassle.

Click to expand...

Any suggestions?

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Klink said:

I ran the engine three minutes or so at idle with a Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer W/Laser Sight and got 183 degrees maximum on port side and 104 on the port.... Sounds like I'm going to have to check the thermostats, by what I read, a big hassle.Any suggestions?

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Yea, that quite a difference in temperature.... might be a good idea to also look at the water deflectors if the thermostats don't cure that problem.

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

The alarm horn you installed will be fine.
The temp switches don't go bad very often, there is a procedure to test them in your manual. They need to be removed to test per the manual. Most alarm problems are the horn itself or connections / wiring troubles.
I see you started a new thread for the thermostats. I'm sure you'll get some tips and tricks from others who have done them without removing the powerhead.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

kjdunne said:

The temp switches don't go bad very often, .. Most alarm problems are the horn itself or connections / wiring troubles.

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That's good news.

I have a spare engine for parts, and it has a fried temp switch. I'm going to take it out to see how easy they come out without breaking. They look like they're cemented in there no?

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Ok, I found out what it looks like and how to get it out on iboats forum.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Ok. I'm just clarifying because I am doing the same thing.....I have a 1992 Johnson 120HP with VRO. The alarm that was shot had a purple wire and grey wire on the "+" side male blade , brown wire on the "-" side male blade, and a separate black wire directly from the buzzer housing. I put the purple and grey together on the "+" on the new radio shack buzzer. I put the brown on the "-" side (to ground buzzer on a failure?). What do I do with the black. The radio shack has three screws. Positive , neg with constant buzz, or neg with intermittent buzz.
I am getting constant buzz and think I am missing the VRO which is why it will not stop. If this is a hijack, please say so and I will repost as new thread. Thanks.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Don"t connect the black wire to the horn. It allows the factory horn to give the short "test" beep when the key is first turned on, not needed for temp / VRO alarm, or for the aftermarket horn. I'm not sure what the grey wire goes to on your boat, grey is usually the tach signal wire and would not be connected to the purple, it must be supplying +12 v to something else. Connect purple to + terminal, tan to - continous tone. If you are getting the alarm with the key ON, engine OFF, unplug the wires from the VRO tank, VRO pump, and the cylinder head temp sensors to see which is causing the alarm. If you still have the alarm with everything unplugged, there is a wiring harness short, tan wire to ground.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Great info. Going to try it. Thanks.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

Constant alarm continues to sound after getting the buzzer wiring right as discussed above. Constant alarm with a chirp every 8 or 10 seconds within the constant alarm.
I installed a new VRO pump prior to posting but haven't started engine since. ( This OB has sat for three years so I am taking it slow)Oil has not been pulled through the VRO yet as I plan on premixing for safety and using a clear tube of oil to the VRO pump to confirm VRO is taking oil.
After opening up the OIL Resevoir tank and messing with the two wires in it, I unplugged the two wires going to the tank and the alarm STOPS. I will be getting are placement oil Resevoir sensor and float assembly ($155).
My concern is will that be it? From what I have read all over iBoats, constant alarm is supposed to be temperature, not low oil/no oil. This is a 92 Johnson VJ120TLAND. Disconnecting the VRO leads shouldn't have stopped a constant alarm.

Re: No Audible Alarm on Boat, where do I Get it?

I had an oil tank cause a constant tone alarm. I just left the wire from it unplugged as the tank was in a visable location, and didn't want to spring the $ for a new sending unit / pickup. You're right, the oil sender should not cause a constant alarm, but obviously it can when it goes bad. The only fix is to replace the sender unit, or leave it unplugged, it can't be repaired. The short chirp every 8-10 sec. should stop once the VRO starts pumping oil.