Replacing Drums w Discs

I have a 2005 Venture roller dual axel roller trailer.
I only use it twice a year, once to launch and once to remove the boat from the water.
Trailer has less the 100 miles on it.........tires still have nubs on them.

Problem: brakes get hung up........probably shot from salt water.
Was thinking of going to discs or just removing the brakes all together.

Any advice/suggestions?

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Removing them is a no no. Your state laws dictate what should be on there. What do you mean when you say they get hung up? If you don't use the trailer much, drum brakes as will any other system will rust (not the right terminology) to the drum and or rotor.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Definitely keep some sort of brakes. If the boat is large enough to require a tandem axle trailer, you can bet the rig is heavy enough to require brakes. Discs have fewer moving parts, and those parts are more exposed so you can keep an eye on them more easily. They also work better. As Thalasso pointed out, using the trailer so infrequently is problematic, but much less so with discs.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Any recommendations for parts?

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Tie Down Engineering trailer disc brake conversion kit is what I used, converted my 1990 trailer to discs and couldn't be happier.

Looks like it's out of stock on amazon but the kit number is 82101 and you can find it elsewhere.
Amazon.com: Tie Down Engineering 82101 Marine Disc Brake Rotor Installation Kit: Everything Else

Here's an Ebay link, it's $60 more than Amazon but it's available now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tie-Down-Co..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item4ac6e1df06&vxp=mtr

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Since you are dunking in salt water, I would go with stainless steel.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

NYBo said:

Since you are dunking in salt water, I would go with stainless steel.

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Stainless is not cost effective.

The Kodiak Dacromet plated discs are 1/2 the price of SS and will last longer than most own they're trailers. I put them on my trailer 5 years ago and only the brake surfaces show any signs of rust after they sit for a while. I can't say as much for the brake pads. they lasted 3 seasons before they backing rusted out and needed replaced.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

dingbat said:

Stainless is not cost effective.

The Kodiak Dacromet plated discs are 1/2 the price of SS and will last longer than most own they're trailers. I put them on my trailer 5 years ago and only the brake surfaces show any signs of rust after they sit for a while. I can't say as much for the brake pads. they lasted 3 seasons before they backing rusted out and needed replaced.

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I was contrasting SS with the TieDowns linked in a previous reply. But I like the idea of the Dacromets even more!

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

NYBo said:

I was contrasting SS with the TieDowns linked in a previous reply. But I like the idea of the Dacromets even more!

Click to expand...

Having torn off a set of three year old Tiedowns to install the Kodiaks, no thanks

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Tony I use my trailer the same way as you, it gets dunked maybe 4 times a year same Long Island salt water (North Shore). I have a drum system I installed in 2004. It has Tie Down zinc coated 10" drums and galvanized backing plates. Here is what I did to make it work reasonably well. I replaced the wheel cylinders twice in the 9 seasons I have had them on the trailer. After the first replacement I figured out how to make them last longer. What I did to make them last longer is to take a new wheel cylinder, remove the dust boot and pushrod, and pack the area under the dust boot with OMC triple guard grease. Then I seal the boot to the cylinder and the pushrod to the boot with high temp RTV. The reason why they seize up is that the dust boot is not water proof. I also grease the threads for the adjuster with the same grease and lube all the sliding surfaces for the brake shoes same way. I do have a flush system but honestly that only keeps the lining from rusting to the drum. The only places corrosion has been an issue is the adjuster threads and the wheel cylinders. I know that Pacific Trailers in California sells zinc coated drums and galvanized backing plates with aluminum wheel cylinders. The drum brakes stop the trailer well and I don't have to worry about the solenoid failing like with discs because drums are free backing. You can convert to discs and most think they are better but I have been able to make them last at least a reasonable time period (if you replace the wheel cylinders modified as I do, every 4 seasons, and grease that adjuster, that is all you are likely to have to do). I also can say there is no corrosion to speak of anywhere else on the brake backing plate, springs, or shoes. I think that disc systems can have the same problem with seizing that drums do but they are easier to flush out.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Also wouldn't recommend Tie Down stuff, Dexter is the way to go. If you can flush th drums after every use it would help, but everyone else here has identified most issue. With disc you need the backup solenoid in line off the master cylinder, otherwise up cannot back up. They say you can have it activated with your back up lights, and while it does work, it's not that great. I have a lighted switch mounted on the dash so I can turn it on just before I apply the brakes to stop before backing. If it gets turned on like if your facing down hill after you stop you still have real trouble backing up. Turning it on before you stop makes it easy.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

dingbat said:

Having torn off a set of three year old Tiedowns to install the Kodiaks, no thanks

Click to expand...

I put Tie Down Disk brakes on my trailer. After the rotors warped and the calipers get stuck after only 1 year, I threw them away and am happy with my Kodiaks.

You couldn't pay me to put Tie Down on my trailer again. Same goes for drum brakes.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

AllDodge said:

With disc you need the backup solenoid in line off the master cylinder, otherwise up cannot back up. They say you can have it activated with your back up lights, and while it does work, it's not that great. I have a lighted switch mounted on the dash so I can turn it on just before I apply the brakes to stop before backing. If it gets turned on like if your facing down hill after you stop you still have real trouble backing up. Turning it on before you stop makes it easy.

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There are two types of solenoids. The blocking solenoid which must be actuated while the coupler is extended and the venting solenoid which can be actuated at anytime. Sounds like your using the blocking type.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Thanks Lou!
So if I just replace the whole assembly and seal the wheel cylinders I should be good for a few years.........

Thanks for the tip.

Tony

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

dingbat said:

There are two types of solenoids. The blocking solenoid which must be actuated while the coupler is extended and the venting solenoid which can be actuated at anytime. Sounds like your using the blocking type.

Click to expand...

Ah dah... yep

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Oh and one last thing I think helps, is if you can, to actuate the brakes every month or so when the trailer is not being used, doing that helps keep the cylinders from seizing up, I just use a screwdriver to apply the brakes by cycling the master cylinder. Think about it if your car was used 2-4 times a year and just sat all the time you'd have a lot more trouble with brakes than if it was used regularly.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

dingbat said:

Having torn off a set of three year old Tiedowns to install the Kodiaks, no thanks

Click to expand...

That was kind of my point.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Lou C said:

I just use a screwdriver to apply the brakes by cycling the master cylinder.

Click to expand...

I am able to push the actuator in with my hand.
Does this sound right? Should I be able to do that?

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

Just checked the fluid level.........there isn't any!!!
I honestly never checked it........my trip to the ramp is only like 2 miles.

Plan on filling and seeing where it's leaking.......hoping it's the wheel cylinders.

EDIT: just added fluid.....didn't take much.

Re: Replacing Drums w Discs

It could be the wheel cylinders, master cylinder or both. You will have to bleed the brakes at this point and see.