Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

I've read a lot of the posts on here, but am skeptical about doing this kind of work myself, especially if the repair costs are less than say $3000 for everything I need done.

I have a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170 (see pics below). The boat is 16 years old and this is the first major issues we've had with it, in short it's been a great little ski boat. For the last couple of years it has been taking in water around the transom/outdrive area. Up to a couple of weeks ago the bilge pump was keeping it emptied out, well the pump went out and is under the motor where you cannot get to it, so needless to say that forced the issue and we can't use the boat anymore until the problems are fixed. The way the engine bay and outside framing of the boat is made, there is just not much room to get around the motor and work. If I had a big square opening on both sides of the engine bay, I would probably tackle pulling the motor and drive myself, but being a semi-big guy at 230 lbs, I would have a hard time getting to all the mounting bolts to remove the engine.

I took it by a local boat and fiberglass repair shop called L&M Fiberglass here in Baytown. A quick look suggested it does need a transom. Somewhat of the main indicator is that I can lift on the outdrive by hand and watch the lower transom area flex a bit as I lift up/down. Jerry at L&M said that transom should be solid and zero movement. He gave an initial rough estimate of $800 for his work to replace the transom itself, but that would not include the remove and reinstallation of the motor and outdrive. There is a shop next door that he works with for that and unofficially he told me the guy is usually between $450-$550 for that portion.

In addition to the above, the lower unit has a crack and some chunks taken out around the propellor that I think were caused by the last guy I had touch the boat when he replaced the bent propellor shaft. Plus the skag has some chunks missing off the bottom of it from hitting underwater objects over the years. The poor little boat has taken a beating, but hopefully it will be fixed up good as almost new once she's done.

What do you guys think about the quotes above? Anyone have an idea of what a replacement lower unit for a Volvo Penta SX Cobra? Its the 4.3 Vortec motor inside and I guess the SX Cobra is an OMC cobra unit.

On with the pics...

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Hi Carl:

You were quoted $800 to replace a transom without pulling the engine and drive. I've never seen estimates here on this forum that low for this job. I've seen upwards of 3-4K. Also, the rot could have gotten in to the stringer set so be prepared for that. Once the engine and outdrive is pulled it can be inspected further. When the job is performed I'm thinking they're going to have to pull the cap to get access to the transom and stringers. I thought my engine compartment was tight. Nice boat, BTW.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

The estimate is in the low side, significantly. It could be legitimate and the guy is bidding on market share through low prices and good customer service or it could be a bait and switch. I would ask questions – a lot of them – to him and about his shop. Ask him what is his game plan, what material he would be using. Make sure he is not taking shortcuts on the quality of the job, you don’t need to worry about this again. Ask around to learn about the reputation of this shop is. If all checks out ok, go for it. I would if I were in your place. You can’t beat this estimate any day of the week. Best of luck

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Yeah, I agree^^^. I'd be Highly skeptical of a $1,300 quote for this work. I don't see any way the work could be done for this amount of money, and I too, think that once the motor has been removed a BIG can of worms will be opened and a LOT more issues will raise their ugly heads that will impact your wallet. I forsee the $3,000 to $5,000 amount coming to pass very quickly. Having said that, If you trust these people and feel they will do quality work. You will have a boat that will last for many more years and you won't find another boat like it for that amount of money. I would really check their references and make sure they do reputable work. I would also do some un-announced spot checks to make sure the work they were doing was quality work.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

They were recommended by a buddy of mine that had some patch work done on his boat. Had one buddy recommend the fiberglass shop and another recommend the mechanic shop next door. The good thing is this place is less than 2 miles from my house, so yes spot checks could happen on an every other day basis.

I actually told him I would like to know when the motor was out because I wanted to come clean out the bilge area and replace the bilge pump. He said he would do that for me. The guy seems pretty straight up. Maybe he likes the fact that I'm a car guy and that I'm very close by, I don't know. I did ask him questions about what he would be using for the transom and he listed off some stuff, but I didn't write it down and forgot it now. He said he was going to use Fur for the wood, that's all I can remember. He said it would be bulletproof when he's done and he guarantees it.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

White90GT said:

They were recommended by a buddy of mine that had some patch work done on his boat. Had one buddy recommend the fiberglass shop and another recommend the mechanic shop next door. The good thing is this place is less than 2 miles from my house, so yes spot checks could happen on an every other day basis.

I actually told him I would like to know when the motor was out because I wanted to come clean out the bilge area and replace the bilge pump. He said he would do that for me. The guy seems pretty straight up. Maybe he likes the fact that I'm a car guy and that I'm very close by, I don't know. I did ask him questions about what he would be using for the transom and he listed off some stuff, but I didn't write it down and forgot it now. He said he was going to use Fur for the wood, that's all I can remember. He said it would be bulletproof when he's done and he guarantees it.

Click to expand...

As I said earlier, that figure for a transom replacement is awfully low. I would get it confirmed (in writing?) what his strategy is such as will he be pulling the cap off (no light undertaking) to get at the transom and how much is that going to be? What parts (e.g. resin, wood, etc.) will he be using. If I understand he is charging you $800 for the transom for a total of $1,300 which I assume the difference is pulling the engine and drive? Is that right, the engine and drive pull is that close a number to the transom replacement? I sense you'll be spending time receiving his calls on surprises he'll find that adds to the bill.

Again, the likelihood that the stringers are rotted is high so have those checked. If so then the price will climb significantly; unless, there is a patch job that's doable. Not trying to put your short hairs on end just playing a little devils advocate for you.

Looks like you're doing your education on this process so if you proceed with this shop you'll be able to keep tabs on the quality of work he is doing. And, since you're only a couple of miles away I would be over there often. Just my 2 pennies worth.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

If the Bilge pump was doing it's job and you kept the boat drained and dry during all the rest of it's storage life then the stringers and motor mounts should not have an issue. It takes time for the water to do damage but I would for sure have them core sampled once the motor is out. I would ask to see the core samples to ensure that it was done and that they are dry.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Woodonglass said:

If the Bilge pump was doing it's job and you kept the boat drained and dry during all the rest of it's storage life then the stringers and motor mounts should not have an issue. It takes time for the water to do damage but I would for sure have them core sampled once the motor is out. I would ask to see the core samples to ensure that it was done and that they are dry.

Click to expand...

Will do. What are your thoughts on him Using Fur (sp) for the transom wood?

The bilge pump kept up until that last outing and I had it out of the water and drained within an hour of noticing it was filling up. Boat was always stored under a car port and kept covered and dry, never any chance of water sitting in it for any period of time.

He did confirm with the mechanic shop next door, motor pull and re-stab $475. I had him reconfirm on the transom work on his $800 quote and he said he doesn't see that varying more than a bill or two.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Ext. Grade Douglas Fir Plywood is commonly used here on the forum. When fully encapsulated in fiberglass resin and cloth and then maintained properly, you can expect decades of life from it. The first link in my signature below has drawings and info on the correct methods for installation. If you famaliarize yourself with the technique you will be able to talk intelligently with him and know that he is using the correct materials and that you are not getting scammed.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Thanks wood. I'm hoping the guy gets started on it next week. He has a few boats in front of me with some minor work to do. I'm gonna swing by today just to make sure he has my cover over it that I left for it. Cover is starting to dry rot, anyone know where I can get a decent cover for a 17 foot in/out?

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

After he pulled the motor I told them I wanted to keep it at my house so I could do a little maintenance and would bring it back when they were ready (plus it kept it out of their way in the shop for the month and a half it took Jerry to do the transom). I put new plugs, wires, and seawater pump impellar on it and cleaned all the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor. Didn't need an oil change since Jeff did that last year and I've hardly ran the boat since then. Now just waiting to drop the motor back off and for Martin marine to reinstall it. I still have a crack in my lower unit, but for now, it is what it is and I can only afford the one big project at this time.

On with the pictures.
For those that haven't seen an inboard boat motor pulled, this is what it looks like from the back and where the 4 mounting bolts are. The things to unhook: steering hoses for power steering, fuel lines, starter wire, electrical harness, 4 motor mount bolts, exhaust downpipes. That's pretty much it. If you didn't pull the outdrive first, you'll have to slide the motor forward to clear the driveshaft where it pushes into the back of the motor/drive unit (the thing that looks like a bellhousing, don't know what it's called LOL).







And here it is after the transom is rebuilt and painted. He replaced the aerator pump which hasn't worked since a year or two after the boat was new and replaced the bilge pump since it went out the last time we were out on the boat. Also replacing the overboard dump hoses that run from the inner floor out the back of the boat.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Did he hit the budget he quoted? Also, were the stringers dry? Looks good in the pic.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Yes, stringers were good. Yes he stayed in the budget aside from purchasing the bilge pump, aerator pump, and a couple of hoses that needed to be replaced. So <$900 for the transom rebuild. I suspect the motor pull/reinstall will jump up between $600-$700 with the addition of gaskets/hoses, what not for the outdrive reinstall.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

He did tell me not to tell anyone local how cheap he did that job. Showed me the boat right next to mine that he is charging $4800 for the transom on it. He has had the boat over 4 months though, so it sat aside for a long time while he ran other higher paying jobs through.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Well he did say not to tell anyone local. Guess the rest of the boating world doesn't matter LOL. Your new transom looks great. Happy boating.

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Fiberglass work was $900 for a cash job, that included a new bilge pump, aerator pump, and a couple of hoses that needed replacing. Boat is now at the mechanic shop and he will have the motor back in it next week! I'll be ready to get out on the river again!

Re: Transom repair/replace on a 97 Chris Craft Concept 170...

Well, I will recommend the fiberglass shop. Although he took a long time to get it done, he did a great job, the only water that got in the boat on Sunday was from me and the kids jumping in the river and coming in/out wet.

I can't say I recommend the mechanic shop next door though. I feel pretty violated for essentially having to pay to remove the motor a 2nd time because the starter was messed up. If anyone want's the details on that, I'll PM ya, but needless to say the $600 job to remove/reinstall the motor ended up costing me $1500, $1000 in labor and $500 in parts for a starter and fuel pump.

On top of that, I had everything ready, took the boat to Lake Houston, backed down the launch, unhooked the winch and fired it up, went to put it in gear and it didn't go into gear. Just free revved. Had to pull out and take it back to my parents house. I started trying to pull the throttle lever apart since when they tested at their shop they showed me that it was in gear (on Friday when I picked it up), so surely it had to be something else. When I couldn't get anywhere with the throttle lever, I decided to pop the cover on the outdrive where I knew the shifter cable attached, sure enough, it was detached. The mechanic used a tiny cotter pin to hold the cable in place. It was so tiny, that the fat end of the pin just fell through the pin-hole and the cable detached. I replaced that with a larger cotter pin and properly bent it. We went out around 5pm and put it at SJC river at Riverside Inn. All seemed well, cruising along in the big area headed towards RIO Villa when all the sudden I lost speed and the boat slowed down to an idle. Moving the throttle lever didn't affect engine RPMS. So I turn it around at an idle, pointed back towards the launch and let my daughter drive while I opened the hatch and pulled off the carb cover to find that he used the same size tiny cotter pin on the throttle linkage and never bent it to lock it in. It had fallen out and that linkage had disconnected. Luckily the carb linkage is spring loaded and went back to idle position. Grabbed the pin and put it back together and bent it into place like it should have been, then proceeded to cruise on.

So shotty mechanic work IMO plus the extra labor cost that he blamed on me because I didn't mention that the boat got some water in it which is what ultimately caused the starter to rust over the 3 month period that it sat. He said if I hadn't told him all was good on the motor that he would have been more thorough and actually started the motor out of the boat before putting it in place.

Aside from all that above BS, the tune up I did on the motor really woke it back up. Prior to all the work, the boat was getting kind of hard to come up on plane and was topping out around 48 mph trimmed out. Well, new plugs, wires, fuel filter, and cleaning the contact points on the distributor really helped. I gunned it from an idle and it jumped up on plane fairly quickly, trimmed it out and hit a top speed of 52 mph with me, 3 kids, and a dog LOL. She cruises smoothly at 45 mph around 4400 rpm or so.