Hi Boaters,
I'll try to keep this simple.
At the end of last season I had spun out my engine coupler at the end of the season. While the motor was removed, I had my mechanic also replace a leaky oil pan gasket. I never put the boat back in the water in 2012, but it started fine in order to winterized it. This spring, everthing started fine, but I noticed as I throttled down to idle, the rpms would remain noticably higher. In the water, the rpms were high enough as to not allow me to put the boat in neutral. Looking at the throttle linkage there was a small gap between the fast idle cam (FIC) and throttle adjusting screw(TAS). If I put a small amount of pressure on the TAS to further seat to the FIC and the RPM"S would lower and I could then put it in neutral.
My resolution to the issue was to rotate down or clockwise 3 rotations, the throttle cable swivel linkage so the TAS would snug up to the FIC. And this worked...I think. I don't know if there exists a reason why I should not have done this. Why? Today, as we cruised the river at no wake or low speed, the engine rpm's seemed too low at times and the exaust had a rich smell. It seemed like the motor would miss or studder occasionallyand then return to normal. It seemed to get progressively noticable as the day went on. Almost like it wanted to stall, but wouldn't, until I was pulling her out for the day. The boat ran fine at higher speeds with no issues.
When I pulled the boat out, I thought that perhaps the idle was lower because the 3 rotations may have snugged the FIS too tight so I took her home and backed off the swivel linkage 1 rotation. I know it is out of the water, but I muffed it and it started fine and while idling down it returned to normal idle.
Anyone of you great mechanics (sincerely) believe what I did was wrong? If so, would you be so kind as to tell me what I should have done instead?
Thank you all for your insite.
Kurt
I'll try to keep this simple.
At the end of last season I had spun out my engine coupler at the end of the season. While the motor was removed, I had my mechanic also replace a leaky oil pan gasket. I never put the boat back in the water in 2012, but it started fine in order to winterized it. This spring, everthing started fine, but I noticed as I throttled down to idle, the rpms would remain noticably higher. In the water, the rpms were high enough as to not allow me to put the boat in neutral. Looking at the throttle linkage there was a small gap between the fast idle cam (FIC) and throttle adjusting screw(TAS). If I put a small amount of pressure on the TAS to further seat to the FIC and the RPM"S would lower and I could then put it in neutral.
My resolution to the issue was to rotate down or clockwise 3 rotations, the throttle cable swivel linkage so the TAS would snug up to the FIC. And this worked...I think. I don't know if there exists a reason why I should not have done this. Why? Today, as we cruised the river at no wake or low speed, the engine rpm's seemed too low at times and the exaust had a rich smell. It seemed like the motor would miss or studder occasionallyand then return to normal. It seemed to get progressively noticable as the day went on. Almost like it wanted to stall, but wouldn't, until I was pulling her out for the day. The boat ran fine at higher speeds with no issues.
When I pulled the boat out, I thought that perhaps the idle was lower because the 3 rotations may have snugged the FIS too tight so I took her home and backed off the swivel linkage 1 rotation. I know it is out of the water, but I muffed it and it started fine and while idling down it returned to normal idle.
Anyone of you great mechanics (sincerely) believe what I did was wrong? If so, would you be so kind as to tell me what I should have done instead?
Thank you all for your insite.
Kurt