Just because it works with muffs, doesn't mean it will work in the water

After reading many posts here about overheating, I decided to test it in a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank. I am glad I did. Everything seemed to work fine on muffs, but not in the tank. I have a 175 hp electric shift leg off the Lund and I know that boat was in the water 3 years ago. This Seaswirl has not been out since 09, and the same guy put the pump together that installed the Chinese transom seal. The OMC parts sites have great parts breakdowns with numbers and prices. I was able to check and all the pump pieces are the same in two stringers I have. So I disassembled the electric shift leg to figure out how it all goes together and the pump looked great and had the OMC logo and part numbers on most of the parts. I took the 4 screws out of the top of the mechanical shift leg still on the boat. I lowered the lower unit off just enough the seperate the shafts and supported it. I then removed the pump and tore it apart, it had a cheep impeller and the aluminum housing was completely worn out. I used the best parts and the softest seals and reassembled the pump. tested again in the stock tank. I have water now, it took about a minute before it showed up at the weep hole that cools the ball gears. :lol:

Re: Just because it works with muffs, doesn't mean it will work in the water

Good work 76. Get er on the water now and put it to the real test.

Re: Just because it works with muffs, doesn't mean it will work in the water

Great day at the lake, the boat performed nicely. The temp stayed just under 180 and pulled close to 4k rpm full of people. The wife even jumped into the lake, we parked in the shade after that. I think a swim deck or at least one more step on the ladder is needed. The grandchildren had a blast, swam most of the day and several fast rides around the lake. Probably need to change my screen name to something Seaswirl.