General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

KC8QVO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 19, 2012
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I have been researching boats for a little while now and made the trek to my local dealer (an hour away). They had a few models in stock to look at - Impact, Rebel, Tyee, and ProV. My goal in the trek was to compare features and learn more about the boats - to that point I was successful in my quest. After getting home I have some more questions.

I do have a big question - one concern I have is the integrity of the hull. The salesmen mentioned different layerings in the different hulls/models - double layers and triple layers. If I understand him correctly, all the boats have a triple layer hull at the bow. How far back that transitions to a double layer depends on the model. Does this make much sense?

What brings up my question is the design of the Alaskan - one of the obvious design differences between that and a comparatively sized boat of another model line is that it is a lighter boat and takes a comparatively smaller motor. For example, the 20'6" Alaskan 2000 is spec'd for a 125hp motor and the 19'1" Tyee 1900 is spec'd for a 200hp motor. From an efficiency standpoint, it would make sense to go with the Alaskan being the lighter/smaller HP option. Getting back to the hull design - how is the integrity of the Alaskan hull compared to the Tyee, or other lines? I am under the impression that the transom design/strength has more to do with the HP rating than anything, but factoring in the comparatively lighter design of the Alaskan is it less durable of a boat?

My first thoughts have been that, again from an efficiency standpoint, the Alaskan would be the better option, but another concern I have is the integrity of the hull. If it is noticeably easier to poke (running in to a rock, easy to do on our lake) it may not be the better choice. The bigger boats go faster, also, but that isn't my primary attribute.

Speaking of power - my salesmen seemed to be of the opinion that 2 stoke motors were better over all with the newer direct oil injection, vs. a comparable 4 stroke. As to fuel efficiency he seemed to think it was a wash between them. If the 2 strokes are consuming oil as well, then that is another consumable/expense that has to be factored in to the equation besides just fuel. I don't care about acceleration, or really top end speed, I just want to cruise at 35mph without going WOT and to be able to get on plane and back off the power for efficiency. My salesman's' idea was to get a 2 stroke for running and a 4 stroke kicker for idling around. My ideal set up would have a kicker anyway - the last thing I'd want is to be out on the lake with no way to get home if something went really wrong with the main motor.
 

roscoe

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Lund, Alumacraft, and others, have been making a lot of noise about their multi layer hulls the last few years.

Guess what? It's 90% marketing.

My father and I have both Lunds and Alumacrafts from the 50's, 70's, and 90's, and Starcrafts from the 70's.
They are all single layer aluminum hulls.

The only one that ever gave us a bit of trouble was the 1958 Alumacraft that popped a few rivets.
Now this boat had blown off the trailer on a logging road at 30 mph, and had been bounced off rocks in the river dozens of times, and vibrated around on carpy trailer for 20 years.

In my opinion, there is no need or reason to pay for a "Super-XLT3B-Ultra multi layer hull". or whatever they are calling them now.



And that Alaskan hull will take a lot more pounding than your body can handle.

A lighter boat means less hp needed, which will save you thousands up front.

An Evinrude E-tec would look nice on there.
 

saumon

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

sorry, double post...
 
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saumon

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

No need to worry about the hull integrity of any Lund model, really. They're built like tank. Even their basic WC series are almost bulletproof. Up there, the northern outfitters used to carry them by helicopter to remote lake and drop them from 40ft. high right onto the water. Not a ding, not a leak.

In my opinion, when it come to aluminum boat quality and durability, there's Lund, then Crestliner, then the others.

Each boat being a compromise, you'll have to choose what you want as far as "finish". In that range, the Alaskan is more "spartan" while the Tyee is almost at the other end of the spectrum, with wide gunnel, carpeted rear deck and all the bell and whistles, with the Impact and ProGuide models in-between. The heavier are (a lot) more expensive but ride better in the rough stuff. They offer more ammenities but they're also harder to launch and consume more fuel.

Personnally, as a fisherman, I like the unclutered wide open space of the Alaskan, but it's really a matter of individual preference, being that they're equally "durable". The Impact might be a great compromise for what you're looking for.

Tyee
1750-Tyee_v5.jpg

Alaskan
2000-Alaskan_5.jpg
 

crabby captain john

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

1st -- your salesman is selling! It is true the 2 strokes of today are much better than even a few years ago. There is a following that would have nothing else-- but they are few and becoming fewer. The vast majority prefer a 4 stroke and that majority will grow over the years you have the boat until you sell it. I know of several great deals that were hard sell simply because they had a 2 stroke instead of a 4.

I have owned several tin boats. There is one above all others by it's maker and every other maker- the Lund Baron. If ever going to have a tin boat to stake your life on the Baron is the one. All Lund boats are good. So are Sylvan and Crestliner-- then several bare bones like Alumacraft.

Motors are a regional thing. Near my home in Fl there are many wealthy boat mechanics as the majority is Merc. Here in the Carolinas the overwhelming majority is Yamaha. Generally speaking, the NEW 2 strokes burn only slightly more fuel than a 4 and they also burn oil. They smoke, smell, and are more loud. Hundred hour service is a little higher on the 4 due to the oil change. All the improvements on the 2 bring more sensors and etc that can go wrong. Anyone could see it a wash if they want but no one can honestly say a 2 will ever sell as easily as a 4 stroke. Even with all the positive modifications a 2 is still viewed by most as 'grandfather's technology'.
 

NYBo

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Oct 23, 2008
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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Even with all the positive modifications a 2 is still viewed by most as 'grandfather's technology'.
And those with that view would be wrong.
 

crabby captain john

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Right or wrong-- a boat for sale with a 2 stroke will usually sit longer and bring a lower price.

And those with that view would be wrong.
 

saumon

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Right or wrong-- a boat for sale with a 2 stroke will usually sit longer and bring a lower price.

I agree. As much as I like my E-Tec (2-stroke DFI), if I were to buy new I'd get a Honda or a Yamaha.
 

NYBo

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Right or wrong-- a boat for sale with a 2 stroke will usually sit longer and bring a lower price.
Advantage: buyer. That works for me! I'd love to re-power with an E-TECH. Lower weight, less maintenance than a 4-stroke, with similar fuel consumption and noise level, and I could live with a lower price. But such a re-power would be kind of silly for my current boat.

On the original topic: Short of continuous rock-bashing, any of the boats listed will be plently durable.
 

Expidia

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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

You are over thinking this whole thing. I agree with everything Crabby says. Bottom line is most top aluminum brands are pretty much the same in build quality. As to 2 stroke vs 4 stroke you are overpaying for the new etecs for what your needs will be. I usually go with what is going to be more popular for a resell. And a brand that has more places locally to service the outboard brand. There are not a lot of etec dealers around. If you dont like that local dealer you are screwed and then have to travel a long distance to the next one! I've never had that issue with a Merc which is the #1 selling brand in the U.S.

If you plan on buying new and ordering a boat now you won't see it for this boating season. Some factories close down over the summer. Most order new boats in March for a 3 month delivery date if you are lucky. I ordered in March and it came in June from Lund. You can run into labor strikes and part shortages.
You will probably have no luck finding a used decently priced rig at this time of year either.

Don't worry so much about the boat brand or outboard for your first boat. Buy one that matches what you are going to use it for. I assure you, if you get into boating and enjoy it . . . You won't own this first boat very long. You will quickly find what you are missing and trade it within the next few years anyway.

If you buy new, take an extended warranty on the outboard. One repair out of warranty is going to be like $1,000. A warranty is cheap insurance. You can usually get 5 years coverage between what the manufactuers warranty is and an extension. These are usually transferrable too. Asking about 2 stroke or 4 stroke usually starts a thread war from the diehards here. Thats like asking Samsung or iphone (iphone hahaha).

Just Go buy a boat and enjoy this upcoming season. I originally compared the Lund against the Alumacraft side by side at a dealership.
To me, for similar models it was night and day. But this is whatl the extra $3,000 for the Lund got me!

If money is no object than buy something that's top of the line. But NEVER listen to a boat salesman's BS. Do your own homework . . . But do it on YOUR NEXT boat while you have any boat to use this season.

Enjoy and post back as to what you wound up doing. It will help others as this question comes up often.

re-read everything Crabby said above :D

And as to maintenance on a 4 stroke vs 2 stoke. (I have both) the 4 stroke all I do is re-new the 3 spark plugs, change the lower unit oil and change the regular oil at the end of each season. Might take me 45 minutes but it's a labor of love :)
 

KC8QVO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
247
Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Crabby and Expedia - thanks for the info.

First, this is not my "first" boat, per se. I have never bought one or spec'd any myself, though. I've grown up on the water - Lake of the Woods and Lake Erie. My great grandparents got a place on Lake of the Woods in the 40's and before I was born my grandparents had a cottage on Put-in-Bay on Lake Erie - that lasted until the past 10 years or so, we still make it up there on occasion but no cottage directly in our family anymore. We've had everything from a 16' core-craft (fiberlass layered wood core hull, it went to the dump about 3 years ago) to a 21' wellcraft with a cuddy. In between (in types, not years) we have/have had around a 16' Lund similar to a modern 1625 Fury XL-SS or 1675 Impact SS, an 18' Lowe (aluminum hull, 175 E-tec, don't know the model but similar to a more modern FM-185Pro-WT), a 16' tiller Lund similar to a modern SSV from the 1980's - has a 25hp Johnson 2 stroke, and a 20' Princecraft pontoon boat with a 60hp Merc BigFoot. The 16' tiller Lund and the 20' Princecraft pontoon boats are all we have now.

What prompted my research is my past trek to Lake of the Woods. The Lowe we sold about 2 years ago because grandpa is getting old and not getting around real easy. In recent years the only boat we've used is really the pontoon boat because we haven't been out on the lake fishing like we used to. So the decision was made to unload the Lowe and put that in to fixing up the place. The downside to that is the only boat I can get out on the lake in is the 16' tiller lund. The reasons therein are that the pontoon boat is our "commuter" (stays at the dock so there is transportation to town) and the Lund goes faster. I can't comfortably get out far though. The boat has 0 protection, it sucks fuel, and can't take bigger/rougher water without that "butterflies in the stomach" feeling running WOT in 30mph winds trying to make it home. For a 35 mile trek I need 12+ gal, and at about 25mph that is a heck of a boat ride. On a nice day it's OK, but any turn in the weather with an hours trek back home can take a fun day on the lake to a miserable existence real quick.

I've had a couple other threads on and off here, but my general quest is to find a boat that satisfies my requirements. It isn't something I'll go right out and get, there are other boats we have so I'm not dead in the water, its just I'm trying to find suitable options that can get me where I want to be. I'm analytical - I like to know the details and I like to understand what it is that I have, what the limitations are, what other options may have that what I am looking at does not, etc. I don't want a fancy boat - I want a good boat. I haven't satisfied myself that I understand all the in's and out's of these boat types and models enough to make good decisions.
 

saumon

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Aug 2, 2004
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Re: General boat questions, more for Lund's - features/models - hulls, also motors

Best would be to find a reputable Lund dealer, big enough to have a lot of in-stock models, show him you're serious and then ask to do some sea trials on various 19'-20' models (Alaskan, Pro-V, Pro Guide, Impact, Tyee).
 
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