Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

My current project has delayed my boating this year: outdoor kitchen with concrete counter tops. But today, the wife wanted to get out on the water. Well, I noticed that my automatic bilge pump was doing something it had never done before. I wondered how water was entering the boat as such an unusual rate. I probed around the U-joint bellows and found the hole.

We head in and I immediately pulled the whole drive unit off the bell housing. It wasn't full of water, only a little in the bottom of the bellows. No rust since it just happened. I grabbed the grease gun and pumped some into the u-joints and the gimbal bearing. I could see some water seeping out of them.

I know how to replace the bellows. I replaced both the exhaust and U-joint bellows a couple years ago with after-market bellows (either Sierra or Mallory purchased here on iboats.com). The exhaust bellows only lasted six months before splitting. The U-joint bellows lasted two seasons. I ordered the OEM replacements about a year ago, but didn't get around to the job this winter like I planned to.

Okay, here is my question. What must I do to mitigate any damage to the U-joints or gimbal bearing? Is pumping grease into them enough, or do I have to disassemble them and clean?

BTW, my after-market trim senders crapped out after about a year, too. Don't buy after-market. Why can't I buy OEM here at iboats.com, because I want to support this forum?

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

I'm with you 100% on not buying "cheap", offshore, after market parts. I have a list of cheap parts that have failed me over the years. The problem is that most OEM parts are also made offshore, but hopefully to a higher quality standard! I would willingly pay more for parts labelled "made in North America" !

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

I have seen the mallory bellows fail before after never seeing the water. One of the many reasons I wouldn't put anything with the mallory tag on it on any boat for anyone.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

I agree 100%. Whatever the difference in price may be, and we all know aftermarket whatever brand it may be will always be cheaper than Quicksilver, is just not worth the cost.

I also would love to buy OEM here as well.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Lesson learned hard. So anyway, how about an answer to my question? :joyous:

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

natemoore said:

Lesson learned hard. So anyway, how about an answer to my question? :joyous:

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Just pump grease until the new stuff starts coming out!

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Hey how bout some pictures of that concrete counter over on D.C. Have always been curious on the process...

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

If you boat in salt water, and you had enough water to leak into the boat coming in, then you should really consider replacing the ujoints, and gimbal bearing . They will start making noise. Might also check for water in the drive gear lube. Hopefully your yoke hasn't started rusting and taking out the front seal in the drive.

Fresh water, oil the yoke, it probably isn't rusty, and you might get away with greasing the ujoints and gimbal bearing. Do change the drive oil.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1 said:

Hey how bout some pictures of that concrete counter over on D.C. Have always been curious on the process...

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Sure. I've been wanting to show it off.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Don S said:

If you boat in salt water, and you had enough water to leak into the boat coming in, then you should really consider replacing the ujoints, and gimbal bearing . They will start making noise. Might also check for water in the drive gear lube. Hopefully your yoke hasn't started rusting and taking out the front seal in the drive.

Fresh water, oil the yoke, it probably isn't rusty, and you might get away with greasing the ujoints and gimbal bearing. Do change the drive oil.

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Yep, salt water. I've been thinking of spending the $1300 for a new SEI outdrive given the fact that my shift dog gear thingamubob is worn to the outer limit and I can't get it out of forward without going into reverse a little, and vice-versa.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

natemoore said:

Yep, salt water. I've been thinking of spending the $1300 for a new SEI outdrive given the fact that my shift dog gear thingamubob is worn to the outer limit and I can't get it out of forward without going into reverse a little, and vice-versa.

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I seriously doubt that has anything to do with the drive. You will be highly upset to put a new $1300 drive on and it does the same thing.

Get a new OEM lower shift cable, new OEM bellows, fix it right and go boating.

Then after installing the new cable, bellows etc. Adjust it per the OEM service manual, not some video. You follow all the steps and it will work perfect.
It's also going to need a good cable from the control to the engine, plus a control that works (they are seldom a problem unless completely worn out and sloppy movement). Everything together costs less than the drive.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Yup having mine done right now bellows, shift cable and seals done at a shop $500, I know it would be cheaper to do it myself.

Re: Broke it on the first trip out of the year (after-market U-joint bellows)

Don S said:

I seriously doubt that has anything to do with the drive. You will be highly upset to put a new $1300 drive on and it does the same thing.

Get a new OEM lower shift cable, new OEM bellows, fix it right and go boating.

Then after installing the new cable, bellows etc. Adjust it per the OEM service manual, not some video. You follow all the steps and it will work perfect.
It's also going to need a good cable from the control to the engine, plus a control that works (they are seldom a problem unless completely worn out and sloppy movement). Everything together costs less than the drive.

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Don,
I've replace all the cables from the throttle stick down to the shifter (with OEM) and adjusted/re-adjusted the shift cables countless times using the Mercruiser manual. I dropped the lower unit and did the shifter limit test procedures, the one where you make a paper gauge glued to cardboard and slipped over the shift shaft and secured to the casing, with a corresponding pointer attached to the shift shaft. It was all the way out to 15 degrees of movement before it shifted. Also, loud, Big Ben alarm clock metallic clanking/ringing sound coming from the lower unit with the drive in neutral, location confirmed with mechanics stethoscope...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWXBDewugYo

Did a whole thread on this one.

By the time I got the lower unit fixed and replaced the u-joints, I'd be close enough to the cost of the whole new outdrive that I'd go ahead and do it.