E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

I am having trouble with my 1988 28hp Evinrude which led me to cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor. The rebuild kit comes with a couple of metal disks which after doing a little research appear to be soft plugs. I initially did not remove the old plugs to install the new because I wasn't sure how to get the old out or how to install the new. I just replaced the float, needle and needle seat and the gaskets. I also cleaned everything with a spray carb cleaner and then blew it out with compresses air. Before I did all of this, It wouldn?t even start. Now it starts ok, but will not stay running when I open up the throttle. It may run for a couple hundred yards before it sputters and then dies. I then usually have to squeeze the primer ball to get it to start again. The boat seems to idle ok for long periods of time. Is there something I missed by not removing the soft plugs? How do they come out? Do they just press back in? Or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks for any replies

Cretch

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Those discs are removed by drilling through them and using a small punch to pry them out. This gives you access to clean the orrifices (spelling?). They are replaced by first seating them evenly in the opening of the casting, then using a blunt punch and mallet to slightly depress the domed top thereby tightening the plug in place. Re-check the high speed jet (in the bottom of the float bowl) and also the height of the float. Sounds like that's where the problem might be.

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

So the high speed jet is actually where the needle is at?

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

no...find a diagram of your carb at marineengine.com and look for the orfice plug <high speed jet>

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Ok, I took the carburetor off again and cleaned & checked the high speed jet. It appears to be ok. Next I checked the float by holding the float bowl upside down. The float was un-level with the end away from the hinge pin being lower. I adjusted it to make it level by slightly bending the main arm of the float. I reinstalled the carb and now it is worst than before. Obviously I did not adjust it properly. What is the correct way to make this adjustment? It's a real pita to keep taking this thing of and on.

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Does the motor have an adjustable low speed knob? I think it's a fixed jet carb but if it's adjustable, turn the knob clockwise until it stops, then back it out 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise. You did the float adjustment correctly. Did you take out the discs (welch plugs) and clean the orifices? Cleaning a carb correctly can be a tedious job but it's very, very important it be done thoroughly. When you squeeze the primer bulb, does it get firm after two or three squeezes?

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Yes it has an adjustable low speed knob. i adjusted it by taking it all the way in, and then backed it off about 3/4 to 1 turn, and then adjusted it while idling to where it seemed to be idling the best.
No I haven't removed the discs yet. I have been a little nervious because I wasn't sure how to remove and install them. I think this will be my next step after you told me how. I was concerned of possibly breaking something or having a leak after reinstalling the new ones.
Also the primer ball does get firm after just a few squeezes.

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

What is the purpose of the lead shot in the low speed adjust? I do not see this in my carburetor, but all the diagrams show it.

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Lead shot is a semi permanent seal used after the casting process and is not generally removed for normal carb cleaning. They can be removed by prying them with a jack knife blade. I have used bb gun pellets as a replacement. The majority of cleaning jobs don't involve removing the shot(s) but, go ahead if you like. You won't hurt anything.

Re: E28ESLCCR Carb Clean & Rebuild

Oldcatamont, Thanks for your help. I removed the welch plugs and gave everything another cleaning. I also made another float adjustment and I replaced all the primer fuel lines since they were still the original lines. I had replaced the other fuel lines a couple years ago. Now it seems to be running good on the idle and at high speed. One more question: Is it a bad practice to let the out board run out of gas? All the years since I had the boat, we would run until the tank ran out of gas and then switch to the 2nd tank. It was never a problem. several years ago, when I started to have issues with the carburetor, every incident including this year, would start after it ran out of gas and we switched tanks. I've decided from now on to switch tanks before it actually runs out so the carb never runs dry. Is it actually hard on the system to run out gas like we had been doing?