How to know if I got a bad trigger?

I changed Coil Packs, Power Packs on a Force 85 HP (1989) and it didnt help my no spark problem on Top 2 Cylinders.

Took off the Trigger getting ready to change the Trigger, what do I look for in a bad trigger? I see no melted wires or anything, I dont know whats inside the trigger itself as its plastered with Black material.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

I would suspect the stator before the trigger. You can measure the trigger windings with an OHM meter. Each pair of trigger wires should read between 48 - 52 OHMs. To check the stator windings, measure between the Blue and Yellow stator leads for each set of CD Modules. They should read between 680 - 850 OHMs. I'll bet that when you measure the Blue and Yellow wires that are connected to the first CD module, you'll find that the readings will indicate that the winding is bad.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

Stator was changed out as well.

Previous owner changed Power Packs and Stator because of the same problem.

I changed out the Coil Pack and Rectifier thinking this could of been the problem.

Apparently all 4 parts solved nothing.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

Try changing the wire connectors on the trigger before you change/buy.
Under the shrink wrap the connection could be broken?
The trigger wires are very skinny and break easily.
If you've changed all the other parts? It's possible it's bad?
Outboard ignition . com or CDI Ignition . Com Both have test procedures for that motor.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

Sounds like either one of the parts that was put on was bad, or there's something messed up with the wiring, which is really easy to do on this motor if the CD modules have been messed with.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

pnwboat said:

Sounds like either one of the parts that was put on was bad, or there's something messed up with the wiring, which is really easy to do on this motor if the CD modules have been messed with.

Click to expand...

This is what I thought, but I believe I found the correct diagram and wired them correctly. I did change the connectors and wired them straight on and it solved nothing. One mechanic told me to try hooking up the 1 or 2 Cylinder wires onto the 3 which the plug had fire from, if I got no fire, then it was most likely the Trigger at fault, I know from changing out Power packs and Coil packs to function off the lone working #3 that they are good.

My only concern was that I thought I would see some type of damage on a bad trigger if it was bad.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

The trigger coils generates about a 5v pulse to the CD Modules to fire the coils. Not much current involved so don't expect to see any burn marks or signs of overheating. Most of the bad triggers that I've seen are bad due to wires rubbing against the flywheel. Maybe damaged wires from handling??

Make sure the ground wire that goes from the Coil/CD Module mounting plate to the engine block is making a good solid connection.

Might also try disconnecting the Kill circuit wire from both CD Modules and see if spark returns to 1 & 2. I think they are the white wires that go to the terminal block on the port side of the motor. Opposite side of the terminal block that the CD Modules are connected to.

Re: How to know if I got a bad trigger?

It sounds there has been more than one person who worked on the wiring. I highly recommend re-verifying all wire connections and all ckt resistance before going any further. After validating all connections and resistance readings, then it is time to do "hot" checks for outputs on each ckt. For each pair of trigger wires (ensure they are the right pair of wires) there should be at least 0.5V of output during cranking. A DVM (digital voltmeter with hold capability can do this). Absence of output voltage should be investigated before going any further. The next step is measure voltage output on stator's blue and yellow wires (Note. There are 3 ckts in the stator, one for charging (two yellow wires and 2 ckts for powering the CD Modules (Blue/Yellow-600~800 ohms) and the only way to verify the correct wires is through resistance readings). There are two sets and each pair should output around 180V while cranking. Then test the CD module voltage outputs which are around 150V cranking. Testing of the Cd and ignition coil requires a DVA attachment to read output. With all these outputs, there should be spark at the spark plug if the ignition coils are also working perfectly. Note cylinders 1 & 2 are fed from the same CD mod while #3 is on each own CD mod. Here's a simplified ignition diagram: