nola mike
Vice Admiral
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2009
- Messages
- 5,069
I've been living on borrowed time for 3 years with my $100 (SS prop included!) outdrive. Noticed before my first run of the year that there was a bit of water in the drive, and the oil was low. Hadn't removed the drive for the winter like I normally do. Drained/filled/took it out, hoping that it would fix itself. It didn't 
No water, but losing an oz or 2 every few days. Don't see any oil anywhere, and I *think* I may have drained some gear oil from the bilge, but tough to tell.
Anyway, the drive that this one was to replace for sure has a leaking drive shaft seal--I've been meaning to replace it for the last 3 years, seemed a bit daunting/time consuming. Tore into it yesterday, and I'm wondering if it actually is this easy. Looks like I have the small spacer, and so don't need to deal with the rolling torque pre-loading (why did they change that to make the procedure so much more difficult?). Questions:
1. Do I really just put in the new seal, put everything back together, and torque the nut to 75 ft-lbs?
2. The procedure mentions torquing the nut while turning the bearings--could anyone elaborate on that?
3. On the pic, you can see that the seal surface is shiny metal/dark metal. There is a slight groove or lip between the two. Not sure if the seal actually rides on that transition point. Achris mentioned just driving the seal a bit deeper if need be. Do I need to do that, or is that normal?
4. Looks like there might be some adhesive or something between the old seal and the carrier (see pic)? Is it, or is that just stuck seal material?
No water, but losing an oz or 2 every few days. Don't see any oil anywhere, and I *think* I may have drained some gear oil from the bilge, but tough to tell. Anyway, the drive that this one was to replace for sure has a leaking drive shaft seal--I've been meaning to replace it for the last 3 years, seemed a bit daunting/time consuming. Tore into it yesterday, and I'm wondering if it actually is this easy. Looks like I have the small spacer, and so don't need to deal with the rolling torque pre-loading (why did they change that to make the procedure so much more difficult?). Questions:
1. Do I really just put in the new seal, put everything back together, and torque the nut to 75 ft-lbs?
2. The procedure mentions torquing the nut while turning the bearings--could anyone elaborate on that?
3. On the pic, you can see that the seal surface is shiny metal/dark metal. There is a slight groove or lip between the two. Not sure if the seal actually rides on that transition point. Achris mentioned just driving the seal a bit deeper if need be. Do I need to do that, or is that normal?
4. Looks like there might be some adhesive or something between the old seal and the carrier (see pic)? Is it, or is that just stuck seal material?
