1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

richierider

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So about a month ago i picked up the Sea Scamp. Boat was in fairly good condition....no leaks, only a few minor dents and dings...paint was flaking off in a few small areas and transom was a little chewed from the motor mount bolts....The boat was set up for fishing with the original bench seats with some swivel seats mounted on those. 3 or 4 2x4's between ridge line in front of benches served as the standing platforms.
Took boat out the first time and had some problems with the motor...wouldn't start very easy and then died out a few times. Once I got it a little warmer I took it up the inter coastal for about a half hour , boat handled great, the Nissan 18 hp pushed it along well...didn't plane good though. Took it out again on small river and had bad day... Dropped my truck keys in middle of river, said to myself "oh well I'll deal with that when i get back". Then had same motor problems. Being in the river I was getting a little nervous. So i dropped the trolling motor which i just put on kinda temporarily with 2 small 2x4 blocks on either side of hull to right of bow and decided to head back up river...wow lot of torque with that 55bs thrust...fighting against the current dragging boat on an angle through river... was actually quite the funny site for any on lookers. Blocks of wood loosened and fell out, so now I'm holding the thing in my hands. Get back to the dock and tie up...Wait for hours for my ride to show up to bring me to get spare keys. What a nightmare. So after all that I decided to do a complete restore of the entire boat, trailer and motor. Now as this is my first boat, I don't have much boating experience to speak from. As far as the motor, I did notice a small leak in the fuel line so I'm hoping that is what was causing the problem but the motor is on back burner for now anyway. I stripped paint down to aluminum and sanded trailer and painted it... working on building new transom right now...waiting glue to dry so i can cut the angles off.... Found that my boat should have had a short shaft motor and mine is a long... So I'm making new transom flat across instead of with the stock dip it came with... that should bring my prop much closer to the right height.... Now issues I'm having now are, deciding the best way to brace for the deck...Don,t have tons of money to buy all sorts of aluminum, but at the same time don't want to add lots of weight...I'm thinking of using stock bench on back and front, taking middle bench out and putting deck from front bench to bow, and rear bench to stern...I read somewhere in forum that 4 inch PVC for middle support could work? Sounds good to me....Please respond with any ideas or thoughts regarding anything that may be helpful. This is also my first forum I've joined, but having already gained a wealth of knowledge and ideas. I figured that I should also share my restoration with others so that they may gain some insight as well,,,
 

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richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Some more pics.....
 

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jbcurt00

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Many smaller bench style boats like yours NEED the support that the seats provide from side to side, and most use the benches as flotation foam filled 'pods'.

Be careful lifting & moving the hull w/out the benches, and consider carefully removing a bench. You want the forward deck to be able to walk around? It shouldn't be very high off the bottom of the boat, walking forward on a raised deck, may make it be tippy, esp if raised enough to be a replacement foam filled area.

Weight may need to be considered, a forward deck (foam filled or not) may be heavier then the bench was, and will transfer that weight forward from where the bench weight was located.

Last outing it didn't plane well. Didn't plane bow high or plowing bow low? Extra weight forward may help bow high, but will make plowing worse. Did you adjust the trim pin to change the OB's angle? Different weight loads may drastically change the plane characteristics. You solo w/ minimal gear & 1 6gal fuel can at the stern requires a different angle to get the boat to plane then you, a heavy set buddy, a full day's gear, cooler & multiple cans of fuel does.
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Thanks for the feedback, the boat did sit high at the bow...with me and the 6g. gas tank to the stern and dad up front...but i think you are right about the trim pin..it looked like it was set wrong...will have to test again after resto.....
 

GA_Boater

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

After reading your exploits of the splashes, I'm glad you decided to to things right, richie. Your seat benches are important for the structure, like JB said. Also, were the seats foam filled? I think that is the flotation in the Sea Scamp.

Everything is looking good! :D
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

The bench seats are foam filled...I plan on putting the back and front benches back in, was hoping to leave middle out as I've seen on other boats....although as long as I use a deck for the floor getting up over the middle seat wouldn't be so bad...without any deck, moving around boat is very difficult, with the ribs the hull angles and the benches so high...Do you really think taking the middle seat out will effect the boat that much...I can understand the concept of the benches making the whole boat much more rigid...I just see so many take it out as well.....

The most trouble I'm having with this whole project is deciding how to do the floor and interior of the boat....Racking my brain for weeks over it....still not sure exactly what I will do....
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

pics of trailer.....
 

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richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Thanks GA_Boater, I appreciate the link...
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

I'd also leave the middle bench for the structural benefits and incorporate it into the modification.

I'd probably do it something like this:


Deck over from the back of the middle seat to the bow and install storage hatches in the deep voids.

I'd install another pedestal seat where the red X is. I'd let the boys fish off of the front deck while I fished from the back so I could keep an eye on them.

They might catch more fish than you fishing from the front, but that's what it's all about eh?! Taking the boys out to fish and have fun!
 

GA_Boater

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

That's a good layout, Jig. Keeps the important parts and adds great functionality. Something to think about, richie.
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

I also like that layout...hadn't thought of that....thanks jigngrub....I very well may go with that...that way I also keep all my foam...
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Ok, so here are some questions I'm dealing with today. I debated over what type of wood to use for my transom and decks....I was gonna buy the marine plywood but the price was just too much for my blood. I know about the pressure treated issue with aluminum so that was out.....not to mention its almost as heavy as steel...Guy at West Marine suggested Oak then resin coat....

Went to home depot and compared the Oak with this new wood from Ecuador called Sand Wood..... the oak didn't have glue suitable for outside, while the sand-wood did, so i went with the sand-wood.

What I'm am wondering is on the transom which will be primed and painted along with boat, should I seal (Thompson) and epoxy, or just seal with Thompson.....Or just use epoxy, can i skip either one....can I epoxy over sealer.....
 
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jigngrub

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Skip the Thompsons, it's little more than parrafin (wax) and mineral spirits. The epoxy is the strongest of the sealers. Most of us use the 635 thin epoxy with the 3:1 medium hardener from USComposites, best price and great customer service (fast shipping).
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Epoxy 1st at least 2 coats each side & 4 along edges (coat all the edges every time you coat a side)

Then paint at least 2 coats w/ an exterior grade paint like Rustoleum Pro

Thompsons NO

Epoxy alone isn't UV stable so it needs to be covered w/ varnish or paint

For non-skid @ the raised deck, you can mask off a border (or not) & sprinkle sand in a 3rd topcoat of epoxy, sift & dry the sand 1st. Maybe easier to add the sand after you get the epoxy on, rather then mix it into the epoxy. Try it both ways on a test piece.

Don't sprinkle the sand directly onto surface, tends to appear less random & have more uneven coverage. Toss the sand UP & over the surface, as it settles onto surface, it'll look less uneven. Toss the sand from different sides/angles as you walk around the surface you're coating. You can always add a bit more as you work your way around it. HARD to take it up....

You can fine tune how aggressive the grit is by adding a little more to the 1st coat of paint, or not.

Jas has used the sanded epoxy & Rusto non-skid on several of his tin builds.
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

any thoughts on Interlux Epoxy Primecoat system......
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

That should be good stuff, and it's made for marine applications... but, I don't think it's UV resistant and needs to be painted over as well and it's more expensive than the epoxy resin.
 

richierider

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

yeah, i was looking to get going right away today , but to save 50 bucks , i think i'll wait and order it from USComposites....thanks for that link by the way.....
 

dozerII

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Re: 1967 14ft. Starcraft Sea Scamp Restoration

Real nice little boats rich.
 
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