1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the floor

1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the floor.

1. I have damage in the center of the hull from a frozen roller, concrete ramp or rocky shores.

2. Is the bottom of the hull sealed fairly thick just above the bottom surface?

3. The bottom?s damage was showing matt and small cavities but there were no signs of water under the floor when I pulled the plug.

4. I fill the cavities with 3M Fiberglass Resin Jelly. Left a thick coating to lay matt in and covered it and plan to repeat with a 2nd layer of matt covered.

5. Is there any type of stainless or Etc that could be bonded to the center ridge to reduce this repeated wear.

6. I?ll post pics after adding the 2nd layer on matt and rough sand.

Thanks In Advance for any info!

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

This link might help

Super secret boat information website

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

First off, pics of the damaged area would help...
Secondly, the 3M resin jelly probably has a wax additive in it...you will need to sand it and wipe down with Acetone before trying to add any successive layers...
The correct type of repair for the damage you have described is to grind away from the damaged area approximately 3-6" all the way around and build it up using progressively larger pieces of CSM and/or 1708...

Similar to this...


This should also be done from the inside if accessible...

There is usually either a floatation foam or air between the hull and the deck...along with either stringers or bulkheads...if the hull is perforated, other than the floatation foam, if its there, slowly getting saturated but allowing you to safely make to shore, there is nothing much else to prevent the boat from filling with water...

If there is foam in the hull and it has gotten saturated with water, it will NEVER dry out...it needs to be removed and replaced...

You can get something like a KeelGuard to help protect the bottom from abrasion, but nothing short of a steel hull will prevent impact damage from perforating your hull...

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

All my excuses for making my mess!

1. Our North TX lakes are low and I had not planned to go out this season vs cranking in a 55 gal barrel.

2. I saw Pics of fish avg 1.5 lbs caught 8-10 mi from home and decided fish once a week this mo until the exp expires.

3. Getting off the trailer and navigating as many stumps has been more than a challenge but fun fishing.

4. The 15? Raycraft and 35 HP Chrysler is basically history but has served well since 1984 as my starter.

5. The heat changed about 15 deg between layers and caught me off-guard on our 70 ? 90 deg.

6. I?ll low pressure the hull or wait to see if I take on any water these last two trips.

7. I can do better vs just patching. To be safe I?ll be parking or parting this Monster soon due to conditions.

Thanks for the Info. If I consider another boat, I feel it will be Mid Size Aluminum that I avoided in 1984.

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

The RayCraft is an East TX built boat (in St Augustine, TX) for the East TX stumps with a tuff hull from my research. I would like to see any interior construction of the hull if possible.

1. The boat was stored in a warehouse when I purchased it in1984 and the floor Etc was solid as a rock

2. Over the years storing it outside tarpped I started noticing some water draining from under the floor and wondered if it came from the TX hot/cold changes (condensation).

3. Low compressed air pressure testing I could never find a leak (soap testing the hull and floor).

4. Getting as much as a gallon of water after some storage seasons the rear floor finally showed weakness.

5. I drilled holes for samples under rear and cen pedestal seats (with wood soft at rear and added plastic windows fogger instantly.

6. No real signs of saturated foam but the steam/condensation got my attention and I added a lexan plastic floor above the fiberglass in that section.

7 .Bottom Line! Could condensation cause the moisture and soft floor (from experience vs talking)?

8. BTW at 67 my body has seen most of the work it can take!!!

Thanks In Advanced!

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

8. BTW at 67 my body has seen most of the work it can take!!!

Click to expand...

'Bout the only way to get around this is to buy a brand new boat and take the best care of it. Or just start renting a boat.

You can take a resto slow and easy and hire or blackmail someone into doing the hardest work on the project.

Covering a fiberglass deck with another solid material only accelerates decomposition. this traps the moisture and you get the greenhouse/condensation effect.

If your foam is truly dry through and through your stringers may be ok, but boats have a bad habit of rotting from the bottom up and inside out.

Aluminum boats are the best for ease of working on and being a lot less expensive to work on. It's also easier to find out/tell if they are in need of repair because they're easier to access below deck and in the transom area.

You can find good used boats that don't need much work, but they're rare and it usually takes a while to find one with lots of leg work in the process.

Re: 1968 Raycraft 15? hull repair concerns, as to being sealed from water under the f

Attached is more Experimenting/Mess!

1. One fellow said the hull and stringers, Etc was strong enough that he fished off a 2X12 in a donated boat with a bad floor.

2. I would think that is against the law with the flotation removed not to mention un-safe.

3. I just helped put a donated lexan floor and new foam in a 1970ish Aluminum Starcraft. That is a well built boat. BUT! You best stay off large bodies or water. We lunch as close as possible to our fishing area (in the Ray craft) and make a hard run (leaving) if possible to keep the motor healthy.

4. Strange! The foam removed was not water soaked. I have drained water from under the floor but not since adding inspection windows. Nor have I drained any water after 8-12 hrs on fishing. I soap tested the boat?s floor using low psi (no luck).