Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

I have a 1984 evinrude 115 with and older 3-wire tilt and trim in it. The tilt and trim stoped working so I loosend the manual realease valve, raised the motor up, and rested it on the supports. I filled it with fluid and now it moves again but alot of fluid is leaking out of the manual release valve. Am I able to pull the snap ring and the valve to see if eithier is faulty while the tilt and trim is connected to the engine? Or is there another way to fix this problem? Thanks and any help is appriciated.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Post a pic of the manual release valve area. If you can see the snap ring and the complete valve through the hole in the stern bracket you should be able to pull it. Sounds like the O-ring on the valve is shot.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Thanks for the reply. I don't have a camera but I can see the snap ring and I belive the complete valve. I was also thinking the o- ring is bad. So I should try and remove the valve and replace the o-ring? Could the valve itself be faulty? Thanks.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Also, can I reuse the snap ring?

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Make sure the mtr is up on it's supports, remove the snap ring and take the valve out. Then check the valve closely. I'm still betting on the oring. You can reuse the snap ring.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

the manual release valve is NLA. it can be repaired if it is not damaged. there is a specialized seal on the very tip. That can be a cause of bleed down but usually is not. The check valves almost always break before the MRV.

You need to be extra careful not to damage your MRV, wallow out the screwdriver fitting, or snap off the aluminum. I have been toying with the idea of turning an aluminum plug on my lathe to fit the MRV hole. But, even if I take the time to design this part, it simply disables MRV so that the valve body can lift & lower properly. If you damage your MRV then I doubt you can get it back without buying a whole new valve body.

that said, if the snap ring is still prefectly flat then you may reuse it. gently pull it open to creat a 1/8" wider gap. use low power dremel ($9 harbor frieght special is perfect) with 3/8" diameter cutoff wheel to clean the groove. You will also need a rubber polishing bell for your dremmel. carefully polish the smooth aluminum between snap ring groove and threads. This needs to be shiny smooth, clean, and lubcricated before you put the mrv back inplace. Otherwise you might tear or cut the oring. You can simply grind a 1" cutoff stone down to 3/8" on a piece of scrap metal. The rubberized polishing bell is usually blue in color and appears to be a very find grinding stone. It is actually impregnated rubber. The black rubber trim ring should be put back in place on top of the snap ring after assembly. It is not a critical part. It just keeps dirt from getting stuck between snap ring and MRV.

as far as fluid coming out from MRV ... that is oring on body of MRV. I think it is either size 012 or 011. I would buy one of each and see which fits.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Thanks alot. I pulled the snap ring out, pulled the MRV out, and found a nick on the o-ring. I'm going to clean between the snap ring groove and MRV threads like you suggested. I will have the o-rings in a few days. I will post with the results.

Re: Evinrude Tilit and Trim realease valve

Therman said:

Thanks alot. I pulled the snap ring out, pulled the MRV out, and found a nick on the o-ring. I'm going to clean between the snap ring groove and MRV threads like you suggested. I will have the o-rings in a few days. I will post with the results.

Click to expand...

and the taper. I often use a retractable blade stanley cutter to shave the beveled edge smooth and then polish it with the dremel & rubber bell.

the goal is not shiny metal as much as a perfectly smooth surface for the oring to slide across easily without knicking or twisting. If you examine carefully, almost every piston&cylinder type oring seal has a beveled edge where the oring enters the cylinder. This is the "ring compressor". It needs to compress the oring 20% without knicking or twisting the rubber. It is not uncommon for the MRV and check valve bevel to become nicked or corroded. The bevel (ring compressor) should be refurbished prior to assembly.