Step #2 - Hull restoration

With the job of restoring my trailer being done, I now have to start on the hull. I have posted under the trailer section if you are curious to see how it turned out.<br /><br />This picture is what the 73' Bass Charger looks like.<br /> <br /><br />This picture is what it looks like with some of the floor taken out. YIKES!!! The plywood is totally waterlogged along with the foam. It is truly a nasty site. This is all I have completed so far due to other commitments. I do plan on tackling this thing next weekend and hopefully will have everything out of it.<br /> <br />I do have one question, can anyone recommend a "good" blade to use on a 4 1/2" angle grinder? I am going to need to use the grinder to get closer to the hull. I bought one blade but it was a piece. I have been using a circular saw and seems to work great but need something different so I can get close to the hull. Any thoughts???<br /><br />Thanks again everyone,<br />Joe<br />Tulsa,OK

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

Originally posted by a2xprt:<br /> I have been using a circular saw and seems to work great but need something different so I can get close to the hull. Any thoughts???<br /><br />

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These projects are great excuses to get more power tools.<br /><br />First, you'll need a reciprecating saw. A big bad boy Milwalkee saws-all is a good choice.<br /><br />To get that last bit of fiberglass out that attached the floor to the side of the hull-<br /><br />I've done it with a wide chisel. Even a heavy duty putty knief about 2-3 inches wide will work great.<br /><br />It follows the contour of the hull without digging into it. Just tap it along with a decent size hammer, and the old fiberglass should split right away. For tight spots, use a real sharp chisel 1" wide or so, and tap straight down on the 'glass you want to cut out.<br /><br />All the cutting along the old floor perimiter shouldn't take but about 30 min or so.<br /><br />Then hit it with a power sander to clean the rough edges and you're ready to drop in the new plywood floor pannels over the new flotation material.<br /><br />Good luck with it,<br /><br />Ed.

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

a2xprt,<br /><br />you'll find various comments on this board about weapons of choice for destroying/removing various bits of a boat, everything from chain saws, to chisels. It becomes a personal preference kind of thing.<br /><br />the "blade" (as you've called it) for a 4 1/2" angle grinder that I found worked best in the situation you are in is what is sometimes referred to as a "zip disk" it is a very thin, about 1/8" disk used for cutting metal and works wonders on fiberglass.<br /><br />Whatever tool you decide to use be very careful when cutting around the perimiter of the floor as to not cut thru the floor and the hull of the boat as well

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

I used one tool for the majority of my teardown, the 4.5 inch angle grinder. I used one cutoff wheel intended for cutting metal, and one grinding wheel, also intended for metal. Fiberglass does not degrade the cuttoff wheel, it goes through like butter, and its cheap. The grinding wheel can get resin build up in it, but what I did was just run it against concrete for a second and it kicked the resin buildup off. The grinding wheel worked great for taking the last bit of glass down, and leaves a nice very rough surface to apply the new layup to. The cuttoff wheel works very well, almost surgical, but you must be careful, it cuts the glass very quickly, and fingers and anything else as well. It also leaves dust like crazy so wear a respirator. Good luck....

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

I have used a tungsten tipped blade of the type used for cutting ceramic tiles in my 4.5" grinder with great success. (Teeth face backwards)Worked fine on glass and timber.<br /><br />Dont be tempted to use any disc without the guard in place and make sure the disc or blade is rated for the RPM of your grinder.<br /><br />Take little cuts only and dont put too much pressure into the cut.<br /><br />Peter

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

i,ve been using cheap diamond discs.they are ideal for cutting fibreglass, and the last a while

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

OK guys, I have done more work on this project. The picture below shows how much I got done. It was only a few hours worth of work. This was due to the wood being so saturated along with the foam. I want to let the entire hull dry out for a few days, this way, it would be much easier to get everything out. I found out that dry wood is rather easier to tear out than wet wood as well as foam!<br /><br /> <br /><br />Its only a matter of time before I get everything out like I should.<br /><br />Question, what do you guys think the best way to install a new transom is? The current transom I have is wood and fibreglass. If you look at the previous post with pictures I did, you will see the section of the transom. You will also see the rotted wood along with a 1/4" fibreglass that is attached to the hull. I know I will need to cut some plywood, which is about 1 1/2" think. I may have to use (2) 3/4" pieces of wood. What is the best method to adhering the two pieces? How do I bond this to the 1/4" fibre glass. In addition, is there a special type of plywood I should use for the transom and stringers? Then, do I glass in the other side of the plywood to the inside of the hull. Should I do this first before I replace the stringers? Any advise, is greatly appreciated. If it wasnt for this board, I dont think I could have come this far on my own. Thanks again fellow board members.<br /><br />Regards,<br />Joe<br />Tulsa, OK

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

You'll get many mildly different anwers as to how to rebuild it, but the differences will mostly be in materials. Marine grade ply for transom, stringers, and floor all glassed in with epoxy is optimal, and has a price tag to go along with it. I myself used ACX with polyester resin for my rebuild (thats pretty much how they were built), and with proper care it will last as long as a person needs it to. My theory was it lasted 33 years before needing a rebuild, so I think I'll be alright.<br /><br />As for rebuild, you want to lay in the transom first. You Can clean and scuff up the glass shell, and either lay some resin soaked cloth or mat followed by the ply, or used thickened resin for the bond between the first layer of ply and the shell. I personally like to have a layer of material be it cloth or mat betwen the ply and the shell, it fills iregularities. For you secnd layer of ply you can just use thickened resin and screw the two layers together using stainless screws. You want the screws only long enough to hold the ply together, it cannot go through and interfer with the outer shell for obvious reasons. Once the two layers are screwed and resined together and to the shell, you clamp all the way around and let cure. Once cured, you then sheath in the transom with mat or cloth, and layer in heavy roving around the perimeter for strength. Once cured, you can then cut and glass in stringers, followed by the floor. This is the only order of assembly that will give optimal results. My website is down (I think, check anyway) or I would say just read it to see how I did it. Others have used different, better materials, but in the end the rebuild is about the same. Good luck...

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

a2xprt<br /><br />Your boat looks a lot like mine. try the folowing web site out<br /> http://www.capndsboatshed.com/ <br />They have some good info & a couple good ebooks you can get. I have found then very helpful. Keep posting your pics

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

That captnd guy is outdated concerning the statement about not using pressure treated wood. That info is 15+ yrs behind times.<br /><br />Here's one well known source throughout the boating industry and proven successful with glassing without delamination. The CCA process is not a petroleum base... <br /> http://www.greenwoodproducts.com/xlpanels.htm

Re: Step #2 - Hull restoration

Yes the Captnd guy may be outdated as Billp said, but as to repair info and books, you can get them via ebooks at a good cost from his site<br /><br />As for types of plywood I chose ab marine grade, for transom repair using poly resin. Below is a good article to helping to choose your plywood by APA The Engineered Wood Association<br /><br /> http://www.glen-l.com/wood-plywood/boatbuilding-plywood.html