Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

novaboat

Cadet
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
19
Looking for advice on a skeg repair. There is a decent section missing here and looking for help to push me in the right direction as far as a repair. I have read about weld on skegs but am not sure 100% on which one to pick and if it is an option for this motor. Local dealer says a weld on skeg isnt an option on this outboard.
skeg.jpg
 

Mi duckdown

Commander
Joined
Apr 14, 2007
Messages
2,575
Re: Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

Local dealer is right, because the chance of messing up on the internal of the lower end seals and such.???
But anything is possible. The skeg is pretty screwed UP.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,559
Re: Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

They may have them on here. I think they call it a skeg saver. It's SS and slides over the current skeg. No welding.

Mark
 

Roberthill

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
317
Re: Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

Find someone that does this kind of work , should not be a problem . Had a 90 hp and the skeg was gone , got tired of messing up props so went to a prop shop , motor and prop looks great . They did take precautions welding on the new skeg which I had purchased online .


FYI :The people (Bauuman Marine) that fixed mine drained the oil .
 

novaboat

Cadet
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
19
Re: Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

I think I will try a weld on skeg, something like the RS4. I will seperate the lower unit and remove all parts and seals before welding. I will have the machine shop cut and fit the skeg best as possible.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,559
Re: Replacent skeg for 2001 30hp ELPT

If you are talking about dismantling the gearbox in your lower unit you may be biting off more than you can chew and going to a lot of trouble. If you are just talking about removing the prop, thrust washer and rear prop shaft seal carrier (with the seals contained in it) then ok. If you left the oil in the LU it would help to distribute the heat, but it would be messy. Actually, other than the shift shaft seal and seals under the water pump there aren't any more and if the welder uses a heat sink on the housing they wouldn't get all that hot anyway.

That's a heck of a whack. While he is fixing it you might have him magnaflux the area around the retainer you removed looking for a hair line crack of the alum housing. Could save you some leaking lower unit problems later with yellow/brown oil and where did the water come from.

Mark
 
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