1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I am new to iboats and this is my first post. I have already learned a lot from all the knowledge shared on here. I am about to start replacing the wood and carpet in my 1988 Lund Pro V 1700. I am ordering carpet samples today and I have the hardware picked out for latches, but I had a few questions regarding the reconstruction.

I was planning to carpet the plywood and then reinstall with rivets, but the floor is wider than 1 sheet of plywood, so how do I join plywood and maintain strength? Also, My side compartments are covered with a vinyl fabric, what do I need to replace this stuff with something that is durable? Is it naugahyde? I am unsure of using the same compartment hardware (door stops/catches), is there something better than the original?

I am sure I will have more questions as I go, I have only just started. I see there is a forum for a Pro V 1700 dlx restoration, so if thiker15 is still around, I would appreciate any advice/tips you could offer. Thanks in advance.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

To splice the plywood cut a strip about 4" wide and center it under the seam. Then countersink holes on both sides of the seam and glue and screw the plywood floor to the underneath backer strip on both sides. I like gorilla glue for this. You want marine vinyl, you can buy it right on iboats in lotsa colors. Glue it down with contact cement like weldwood brand. Is ther something better than the original? Probably, again look on iboats, lots of choices depending on your wallet size.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Pictures, pictures, pictures! Pictures will help us help you better.

Replace your decking as it was installed by the manufacturer, if you're unsure how this was done... again, we need pictures.

Be sure to check your foam for waterlogging/saturation and your transom for rot.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I will try to get some photos posted this evening. Thanks.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I think this is what George was alluding too...

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I replaced the floor in a 4.9 Tyee a few years ago, the plywood was installed sideways from the factory so that is how I replaced it. It originally had 5/8 and I replaced with 3/4, but I had to adjust the bottoms of the consoles to get the windshield to align properly. The floor in mine was screwed down so that is how I refastened it.

My seams on the plywood all landed on structural stringers in the floor as I didn't need to use backers under the seams.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Tagging along,............

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Alright, I have a few photos I took the other day and I hopoe I read the instructions correctly to upload photos so here goes.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Ok, now we need to see some with the decking removed.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

low277 said:

I replaced the floor in a 4.9 Tyee a few years ago, the plywood was installed sideways from the factory so that is how I replaced it. It originally had 5/8 and I replaced with 3/4, but I had to adjust the bottoms of the consoles to get the windshield to align properly. The floor in mine was screwed down so that is how I refastened it.

My seams on the plywood all landed on structural stringers in the floor as I didn't need to use backers under the seams.

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Thanks for the heads up. I plan to take the floor off this weekend and I am guessing the seams will be on stringers. Did you put your carpet on before attaching the plywood to the floor or did you carpet the floor after installing the plywood? It looks like my floor was installed after the carpet was installed.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

As soon as I get the floor out I will take some more photos, but it will have to wait a day or two. thanks for all the input so far.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

lund prov said:

? It looks like my floor was installed after the carpet was installed.

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This is the way to go with aluminum boats and is OEM for the majority of newer aluminum boats nowadays. Wrapping the deck panels with carpet before installing them enables you to remove them later without destroying your nice new carpet should a problem arise below deck.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Good to know, I think this will be the easiest way to put the floor back in there. Is it best to use the old floor as my templates, if they are not too rotten? I am planning to put 3/4" plywood back in the floor. The transom seems solid, how would I check that?

What is the best way to get the carpet smooth? Is there a roller tool, or is there something at home that would work ok?

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Something to be aware of, Lund most likely used CCA treated plywood for the decking. So if you use run of the mill untreated plywood, it won't last as long as the original stuff. Depending on where you are located, the CCA treated stuff might be available locally,,, (might......). Of course you could seal up the plywood with a variety of things, but I'd put my money into the correct treated plywood instead of sealing it up, others might disagree...

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

lund prov said:

Good to know, I think this will be the easiest way to put the floor back in there. Is it best to use the old floor as my templates, if they are not too rotten? I am planning to put 3/4" plywood back in the floor. The transom seems solid, how would I check that?

What is the best way to get the carpet smooth? Is there a roller tool, or is there something at home that would work ok?

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Using the old deck panels will make cutting out your deck pieces quicker and easier, but you'll have to remove the carpet from them first for an accurate fit.

You may be able to access your transom for inspection after you get your decking removed, or you may have to take your boat apart a little more to get to the transom... but now would be the time to check it. A visual inspection for obvious signs of rot will be first on the list, then you can probe it with a drill and inspect the shavings for an interior sample.

A carpet roller is a must for a professional looking and long lasting carpet job. I use these two types:

The one with the red rollers does large areas quickly and efficiently, the smaller roller is good for narrow pieces, edges, and back wraps. Both are available at Home Depot or Lowes. These rollers will apply the 150 psf needed to embed the carpet backing into the adhesive to ensure a good bond and no air pockets.

Your choice of carpet adhesives will be important too. The solvent based adhesives like Weldwood contact cement and outdoor carpet adhesive are much more waterproof than the latex (water) based indoor/outdoor carpet adhesives. The latex based adhesives weaken when they get wet, the solvent based do not.

Be sure to check your floatation foam for waterlogging/saturation, I'm pretty sure you'll find that it is wet. Wet foam adds a lot of weight to a boat and slows it down. Wet foam also does not float, so your boat will sink if it's ever swamped.

fishrdan said:

Something to be aware of, Lund most likely used CCA treated plywood for the decking. So if you use run of the mill untreated plywood, it won't last as long as the original stuff. Depending on where you are located, the CCA treated stuff might be available locally,,, (might......). Of course you could seal up the plywood with a variety of things, but I'd put my money into the correct treated plywood instead of sealing it up, others might disagree...

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Nah, if his decking was CCA it wouldn't be rotten. CCA comes with a lifetime warranty and will never rot. Kiln dried CCA is nearly impossible to find in most areas and very expensive.

A better choice (because of availability) would be the waterproof MDO plywood used for boat building, outdoor sign making, and concrete form work.MDO is about $50-$60 a sheet and worth every penny. Coated with 2 or 3 coats of epoxy resin it'll last for generations and will never have to be replaced by the original installer.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

My Lund Tyee did not have treated plywood, I used the Arauco plywood from menards. I cut all the pieces to size then coated with CPES until it wouldn't soak in anymore. My flloor was screwed down and carpeted over the top, but mine is probably an older model.

If I do it again to any boat I will consider using marine vinyl flooring instead of carpet, I hear very good things about it.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

low277 said:

If I do it again to any boat I will consider using marine vinyl flooring instead of carpet, I hear very good things about it.

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I did my boat with Nautolex marine vinyl and really like it. Wrapped all the pieces individually and then fastened them down:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ir/97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift-509163.html

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Here is what I got done today. The floor was in worse shape than I thought and it will be challenging to use as a template. I took lots of photos and notes as I went. The sides will come out tomorrow and I plan to clean up the rotted wood. Let me know if I would need some better photos.

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

What kinds of epoxy do I need to treat the marine plywood. I have never used the stuff. Is CPES from rotdoctor good stuff? What about penetrating epoxy from epoxyproducts.com? How much would I need to seal all the wood? I guess hardener is sold with the epoxy?

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Someone with more knowledge about the epoxy should wander through to answer,........

For those that didn't notice there is a Tiller handle there,.......

Nice!!,..........