[beertech44]

I have a 1979 sea nymph with a rotton floor. Problem is to replace the floor all the inside stuff has to come out and is riveted to the sides of the boat. Stuff like the side console steering and seat bases. Question is how hard are Rivets to install back when the floor is done. I haven't even found a place to buy them yet but they look like solid rivets with the inside squished. Am I going to have a problem getting them tight. Even though they are above the waterline I want stuff tight.

[BoatBuoy]

Web search for aluminum rivets will keep you busy all night.

[Bond-o]

I redid My 74 Starcraft back in 99/00.......I put it back together with 3/16ths" Pop-Rivits............Almost 700hrs,+ Not a Problem At All...........

[beertech44]

Wont pop rivots leak if water splashes up the side

[Bond-o]

The Wood in My boat is rivited to Stringers, Bulkheads,+ Ribs............BTW,.. I Also use a Closed-end Pop-Rivit Under the waterline to replace Damaged rivits.....

[beertech44]

ok I see. I have some in the side that need a sealed rivot. What is a closed end pop rivot

[Laddies]

Beertech we have replace some floors by cutting them down the middle to remove them and adding a center seam to reinstall them with good result

[gewf631]

Are you certain that the parts are riveted all the way through? Nothing inside my mid-70's Starcraft, was riveted through the hull. Most of the stuff was riveted to the ribs, or to a flange of some sort that itself was riveted to the hull.I replaced the entire floor by just drilling out all those rivets (they were all pop-rivets). When it came time to put it all back, I used stainless steel screws.

[ufm82]

Beertech, Welcome to the club. My first "real" boat was a 1978 Sea Nymph FM161. Same boat as yours I believe. I bought the thing and the floor was completely rotten. The transom was pretty sad as well. I strip the hull to the skin- completely gutted it and rebuilt it. I expanded the front deck, added some hatches and liners and changed the rod locker dimensions. The issue I ran into is the same thing you are seeing- the console and some of the brackets are under the waterline. My solution was to go to an industrial supply house and find a good quality closed-end rivet. I settled on a 3/16" Closed End aluminum rivet with a Stainless Steel mandrel with a 1/4" Grip Length. I also purchased a #11 drill bit- this gave me a press fit. (You have to tap the rivet in lightly with a hammer) The #11 would drill out the old rivet and create a perfectly round hole for the new rivet. Then, I used a Marson HD setter to pop them in. It would hurt your wrist to pop these rivets but they drew down very tight and left a nice smooth head when they popped. The inside end mushroomed very nicely and actually looked good. I used over 100 of these rivets during my rebuild and ran that boat for 3 years after the job and it never leaked. ( Not bad for a 20 year old boat.) I paid about $18 for 50 of those rivets. You won't find them at Home Depot or Lowe's or any place like that. Find an industrial fastener supply and they can get them for you if they don't stock them. The gun to set them should run you about $45. That will be strong enough to set the rivets. UFM82

[Bond-o]

These People right Here,...... Can get them,... I buy them from the Watertown store.....Unfortunately,... They Don't list the in the online catalog............UFM82,......I could have written that myself,.... Even the Marson....