Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

I thought I would give my motor a good tuning. I popped the flywheel and noticed that my motor does not seem to have an oil wick on it. My motor diagram says it should. Where would this oil wick get clipped on this motor?

Also, the points are a little pitted so I thought I would change them. Would anyone know the part number for the tune up kit that might have new points and condensers. Also, would you know if a new wick would come with that? The coils look new without any cracks.

Lastly, where do I position the rub bar of the points to set them at 0.020". My cam has the word "top" on it. It looks like the "o" might be the widest part of the cam but I am just eyeing it. Is there a spot to set the rub bar on to set the points properly?

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

The word TOP only indicates the orientation of the cam. You set the rubbing block of the points at the flywheel key. That will be the widest point, unless the word "SET" is on the cam.

You will need the Sierra tune up kit (from iboats) part number 18-5011D x2 as that part number is only for 1 condensor and 1 point set.

It has been a while since I have used a Sierra kit. I cannot remember off hand if it has the oil wick, I know the OMC part number 172521 has it for sure. It goes under the coil. However, it will not have the wick holder, only the wick. You will need to locate a holder if you dont have it under your coil.

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

The Sierra catalog does not show a wick with the tune-up kit. But there might be one if you are lucky. I haven't used one lately either.

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

Thank you. Appreciate your help.

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

So a couple of follow up questions. My dealer said that the oil wick was not included in the BRP tune up kit, but he said he could acquire one for a few bucks. So great. My question is on how is it attached to the clip. I am going by memory here but if I recall the clip did not seem to do much clipping. There is a screw that goes through the coil above it and through the clip to the powerhead, I think, but that is all I can remember seeing. Would anyone know how this oil wick gets connected to the motor so that the cam does not pull it right out while it is turning?

The 2nd question is that I am also putting on a new head gasket and one of the ten head bolts is a little rusted. My dealer cannot seem to acquire the actual bolt. It is a 7/16" bolt, that is about 1.75 inches long. The washer for it is good. Could I simply find any bolt that is the same dimensions and use it. If so, would it have to be aluminum or would stainless steel work fine? Also, which of the 10 bolt spots would be the best one to put this one into?

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

Hi Optsy. The fiber oil wick is simply held in place on a little barb in the points. A new tune up kit should come with them, if memory serves. Although, if you don't have the wick, it's not the end of the world. You can live without it. As for the bolt, any stainless steel hardware of the same size will work. Just take you time getting the old one out. If it breaks, it breaks, but you should be able to coax it out with some heat/penetrating oil. It shouldn't matter which position you put it in, once you've tightened the head bolts down the correct torque value. Here's a great link that can walk you through a tune up from top to bottom.

5.5 HP Evinrude Johnson Outboard Tune-Up Procedure 1954-1964

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

I think your dealer is pulling a fast one on ya, lol. I have bought gazillions of those tune up kits, and every one had a wick.

Im not a big fan of guys skipping such a simple, cheap step as installing a wick. The cranks for the most part are NLA. Why dont we install new wicks as they are engineered to have a let these parts survive another 50 years for our grandchildren to enjoy.

Here is about the best pic I can find right now of the wick installed, let me know if it helps.

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

Thanks guys. The bolt came out no problem but some of the threads were a little rusted so I wanted to replace it. I shouldn't have any problem finding a stainless steal bolt for it and I could reuse the old one if necessary. I'll be sure to put a coating of anti-sieze on them for the next time or next guy.

Thanks Hightrim for the picture. It is worth a thousand words. I agree about the wick. The motor did work fine without one, but I am probably going to put another $125 worth of parts (impeller, points x 2, condenser x2, carb kit, head gasket, crankcase seal, exhaust to powerhead gasket, new fuel lines) on a motor I paid $175 for and when I am all done I doubt I could sell it for more then $250. With all that said, it would seem a shame not keep as much lubrication on the cam as I should, when a wick is maybe another $3. I imagine my dealer is just looking at the pictures of the kit and some I have seen don't seem to have the wick, but maybe I was looking at Sierra. I am getting the BRP tune up kits. Anyways, if I end up with 3 wicks, I am better off then if I ended up with none. Also, I doubt I will be selling it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Re: Tune Up 1961 5.5Hp (CD-18)

Use OMC gasket sealing compound on the bolt threads if you have it. It is the reccomended product. I would likely clean the bolt up and use it. You are the best judge of that though as you can see it in your hands.

As you likely know, the torque on the head bolts is 60-80 inch lbs. I do a cycle at 25 inch/lbs, then a cycle at 50 inch/lbs, then I do a final torque of 75 inch/lbs.