25 HP Seahorse No Spark, Need Help

I have a 25 Pull Start. Think it is 94.

I have no spark on either coil. Both coils and the powerpack are less than 1 year old.
I noted that the ground on the Powerpack had some major corrosion, I fixed that and again no spark
I have looked at the manual but I am not sure how everything works with the flywheel and generating power to the powerpack.

Can I get schooled on how everything works under the flywheel and can I be given direction as to whether or not I should try to tackle the flywheel being that I do not have the suggested tools.

On a side note, my motor would very often skip hard, very noticeable, while running wide open. Not consistently but say 10 tens on a 3-4 mile run.

Thank you in advance for your help, this is a great site. Glad I found it.

Re: 25 HP Seahorse No Spark, Need Help

Ive just written on this post a basis of the works under the flywheel
http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-ev...-110-not-starting-barely-sparking-598241.html

Is the motor spinning ok when you pull it or is it only the flywheel spinning?
Remove one wire from your stop switch and see if that helps. Reground it to stop the motor if it does help.
Having both coils out normally means something in the flywheel area or the kill switch

Re: 25 HP Seahorse No Spark, Need Help

I believe the motor is turning well. I have spun it by hand and I can feel the compression. I tried the kill switch ground last night after reading on it. It did not help.
I am going to go buy a meter today. I know that it used to have great spark. Thick blue spark, about 6 months ago, although I know that means nothing now, but it did have spark at one time. And it must receive spark at some point because the motor was starting for me very very speraticly, before I started looking into the plugs.
What a bummer that this is not an easier fix. Do you think my power pack is dead for some reason?

Re: 25 HP Seahorse No Spark, Need Help

Don't go buying any new parts until you verify the old parts are bad. Shot-gunning repairs are not the way to go and can be very costly too. If you know the basics, start at the beginning and work your way through until you isolated the suspect part... And think that after it ran great just a few months ago, how many parts could be bad now? Logic would dictate one bad part, not everything... It could be a bad Powerpack (it is common to both cylinders), but it could be something as simple as a loose or corroded connection too... Start with wiring and connections first... JMHO!