150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

I have a 1990 Evinrude 150XP Model VE150SLESB

I was woundering if anyone knows what the rpm should be at WOT and where I can get a good Manual for this motor.
Thanks for your help.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

If you want a new factory (photocopy reproduction) check out this web address: outboarbooks.com Also, you may find a used one on ebay. Dealers can't get one this old a manual for you-so purchase it direct, yourself. Your crossflow engine is rated at 150 hp at 5000 rpm's. Factory recommended WOT is 5500. Best to prop that engine to run close to the 5500 target at WOT. Running it lower than 5000 is considered "lugging" the engine.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

You should be able to find a used manual on Ebay at a good price.

You may want to read this to be sure your ordering the correct manual for your model year.
http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-ev...word-caution-when-purchasing-used-596862.html

If you look at the pictures that Bob Johnson posted, it looks like on the newer manuals they printed the engine model year along with the part number and the I,N,T,R,O,D,U,C,E,S code on the spine of the manual. That is not the case for the 1980's and early 1990's manuals.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Hey guys thanks for the info. I guess maybe I asked for the wrong book but thank you for the rpm info as I wont to check that. I was wanting to get a service manual. Will this one work that is here or do you have better suggestion?

1990 Evinrude Johnson Service Manual 88 90 100 115 150 155 175 HP 507874 | eBay

I think I have a rectifier/regulator problem and I have tried to preform the test I have found on here as there was a real good one that said to put the grey sending wire going to tach on the yellow with grey stripe from the stator. I did that and the tach still just works at idle and soon as given any throttle it goes to 0 but I moved it to just the yellow wire on the stator and it works on that one. Does this mean it is the rectifier/regulator or is the stator bad since the instruction I found on here said it should go to the yellow with grey strip wire for testing but it works when hooked up to the yellow only wire of the stator. Is it suppose to work on both stator wires or just one.

Thanks guys for your fast replies it is very much appreciated.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Josparky said:

Hey guys thanks for the info. I guess maybe I asked for the wrong book but thank you for the rpm info as I wont to check that. I was wanting to get a service manual. Will this one work that is here or do you have better suggestion?

1990 Evinrude Johnson Service Manual 88 90 100 115 150 155 175 HP 507874 | eBay

Click to expand...

That's the P/ N I came up with for that model and year. I think your good with that.

This may help troubleshoot your problem.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/techni...ort-documents/
Go to tech support> tech support documents> troubleshooting guide

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Thanks Greg. I have already seen that and read it it is good info but I don't have a DVA meter. And it still leaves a grey area of weather the tach should work off either one of the stator wires or just one? The tach works when hooked to the yellow stator wire but does not work when hooked to the yellow with grey stripe stator wire. Does that mean the stator is no good on one side or is that the way it is suppose to be.

Thanks

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

I assume you are using Joe Reeves procedure to troubleshoot this problem. I've never had to troubleshoot that problem, so I can't give you a good answer. I've read the procedure, and I see where your confused. If the tach works on one wire, even if it isn't the yel/gry I would think that the tach is OK. It only needs one wire in normal operation (the gray wire from the regulator). Are you having any battery charging issues? Is there a tar like substance that has dripped on top of the block from the stator? That would indicate that the stator is bad or is going bad. That's the best I can do.

You might try to PM Joe and send him the link to this thread. He probably won't reply to your PM, but if you link to this thread he may answer here.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Hey Greg thanks for the info and yes that is what I was using. I think the tach should only work on 1 of the wires if I am reading his info right that's the way it sounds but I just wanted to be sure. It does seem to be charging I had some old gauges in it and the tach started acting up so I bought new ones and the tach still does the same thing so I am sure the tach works just trying to figure out if the stator would work on both wires for the tach. The stator is 2 years old so it is pretty new but you never know. I do think it is the rectifier/regulator just wanted to make sure you know.

Thanks for your help. Maybe somebody else will come along that knows and enlighten us and maybe someone else that comes along with the same question. In Joes description it does say if it doesn't work on one yellow wire to try the other that's why I am confused as mine doesn't have the 2 wire system but maybe they mis colored the wires from the factory if it doesn't matter which one is which. From what I have been reading it doesn't matter just wish I knew if the tach should only work on 1 wire or if it's suppose to work on both wires from the stator.

I sent Joe a PM also with a link to this thread hopefully he will answer.

Thanks

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

If you install a CDI stator both wires are yellow. It states in the directions that it doesn't matter which wire goes to the yel/gry terminal.
I think what Joe is saying is that you need to find the one that the tach works on.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Hey Greg I think from what I understand that the tach runs off the AC current. The rectifier/Regulator ties in to the AC current through the grey wire. From what I have read anyway.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Assuming you have a water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier assy...................

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

Bottom line... if the tach works when it's connected to either stator "Yellow" wire BUT DOES NOT when connected to the voltage regulator/rectifier's "Gray" wire.... the voltage regulator/rectifier is faulty.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Joe,
After reading your test procedure we are unclear on a couple points.
Assume the tach is good.
The tach should read when the yellow/gray wire is connected to the gray tach wire.
If the yellow wire is connected to the gray tach wire, will the tach also function?
The OP stated that the tach works when the gray wire is connected to the yellow wire, but not when the gray wire is connected to the yellow/gray wire. If so is the tach bad or the stator?
I am making the assumption that the tach signal is derived from the output of the rectifier, and is a DC voltage. Is that correct?

[

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Greg_E said:

Joe, After reading your test procedure we are unclear on a couple points.

Click to expand...

I don't ever get into that scientific mumbo jumbo section of the service manuals which is why I devised the test mentioned above. The test is simple and easy to understand and identifies the faulty component.

If the tach functions regardless of which wire it is attached to, the tachometer is functional.

The tachometer actually operates off of the stator's 6 pulses, hence the dial on the back of the tachometer being set to number 6. As such the tachometer functions off of the stator's AC voltage.... not the rectifier's DC voltage. This is why the tachometer will function when being attached to the stator's yellow winding only.

If the rectifier assembly is flawed, a conflict of sorts takes effect within the rectifier ie a failed flawed circuit. This is why a good tachometer will not function if connected to either of the yellow wires of a flawed rectifier.

There's no need to get into the rocket science portion of the problem... it'll drive you nuts!

Pertaining to a water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier assembly... if the tach works when it's connected to either stator "Yellow" wire BUT DOES NOT when connected to the voltage regulator/rectifier's "Gray" wire.... the voltage regulator/rectifier is faulty.

This can be proved by simply waiting for it to catch on fire.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Joe, Thanks for the reply.
The OP stated that the tach works when connected to the yellow stator wire but does not work when connected to the yellow/gray stator wire. What would cause that? It definitely didn't work when the tach was connected to the gray wire. I'd say he needs a regulator, but I can't explain no tach reading on the yel/gry stator wire to gray tach wire.

Back in '87 my father-in-law's engine did catch fire from a bad regulator.

I'll delete most of my previous post. I don't want to spread bad information.

Thanks again.

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Thanks Joe and greg you where very helpful on this yellow wire question. Let me see if I can clear it up a little more so if anyone else has this question they will know. As Joe said the yellow wires and on some engines one of them will be yellow with grey stripe. It doesn't matter on these coming from the stator. The tach hooks to either one of them and will only work on one of them so you have to hook it to one at a time to see which one the tach works on. If it works on one of them then the rectifier/regulator is bad. I was pretty sure this was what Joe was saying anyway but wanted to make sure. My tach did work on one of the yellow wires from stator bought new rectifier/regulator today and charging jumped back to the full 14 volts at WOT and Tach works like it should now on the Grey wire. Again Thanks for all your help guys. Now I am on to raising the motor 1/4 inch at a time to bring the rpms up now that I have a new water pressure gauge to watch and make sure I don't go to high with it. One more question if you guys know, won't raising the motor bring the rpms up I am running around 4800 to 5000 at WOT with the boat fully loaded meaning whole family today. I am going out tomorrow with just me and my son this is the way it will normally be run and see what I get then I am going to raise it another 1/4 inch before we go.

Thanks guys

Re: 150 XP RPM and Where to get a manul please.

Josparky said:

Thanks Joe and greg you where very helpful on this yellow wire question. Let me see if I can clear it up a little more so if anyone else has this question they will know. As Joe said the yellow wires and on some engines one of them will be yellow with grey stripe. It doesn't matter on these coming from the stator. The tach hooks to either one of them and will only work on one of them so you have to hook it to one at a time to see which one the tach works on. If it works on one of them then the rectifier/regulator is bad. I was pretty sure this was what Joe was saying anyway but wanted to make sure. My tach did work on one of the yellow wires from stator bought new rectifier/regulator today and charging jumped back to the full 14 volts at WOT and Tach works like it should now on the Grey wire.

Click to expand...

This is the last line of Joe's procedure.

"Bottom line... if the tach works when it's connected to either stator "Yellow" wire BUT DOES NOT when connected to the voltage regulator/rectifier's "Gray" wire.... the voltage regulator/rectifier is faulty. "