Howdy,
I have a 1986 Mercury 75HP 4 cylinder two cycle motor, SN 0A994929. It has a triangular fuel pump that is now listed as obsolete, but diaphragm kits and internal parts are still available.
When I purchased the motor, it had sat up for a long time without being ran. I decided to go ahead and rebuild the carburetors, replace rubber hoses, etc that may have dry rotted due to age and lack of use rather than risk clogging a carb with rubber debris. I didn't rebuild the fuel pump initially, but want to go back and do so after test running the motor on the lake. Here's the results of the test run:
Notes:
1 Fuel tank is new, bulb and all gas lines and filters from tank to fuel pump are new. Gas was fresh gas (bought near lake sydney lanier, no alcohol supposedly) with new Merc Quicksilver two cycle oil mixed using ratio recommendations for this motor. Only old part in fuel path was fuel pump. Carburetors were rebuilt with OEM parts and synced by a professional mechanic. Water pump was rebuilt as well with a complete rebuild kit.
2 Stator and trigger assembly are new, replaced due to wiring damage done by dirt dobber chewing up wires and shorting them, then original owner tried to start motor and fried wires so wires could not be repaired.) Rectifier was also replaced, due to corrosion caused by dirt dobber mud.
3 Compression test got 135 PSI on all cylinders and original spark plugs looked brand new when removed from motor for inspection and pre-oiling of cylinders with two cycle oil/carbon cleaner mix for storage while I was restoring the boat the motor came with. Transmission oil was replaced twice, to force out as much dirt as possible. Original tranny oil was dark, but not milky.
Lake test for motor:
Motor ran extremely strong on first day test, but was unable to check if motor had correct prop due to loose wire on tach. Fixed failed heat shrink insulation on tachometer wiring connector, which correct tach problem and reran lake test next day.
Motor ran strong cold for about 200-500 yards, but began to hesitate and bog down, as though fuel starved. Pumping bulb while operating motor did not correct problem and bulb was "firm" during test. Motor continued to have acceleration problems when accelerating from stop at WOT (holeshot) or when going from low rpm (2000) to WOT. Motor would bog out and would no longer run at WOT without stalling. Motor acted starved for fuel. The motor did not exhibit this behavior when cold, but did after a short run. Water pump flow showed excellent with extremely strong flow from "pee hole."
Note: I realize this may be a fuel issue or it may be a electronics/electrical issue even though the stator and trigger are new. So I'm looking for suggestions as to how to proceed as well as doing simple, inexpensive things that will eliminate other potential issues.
Motor had problems above 200 rpm after initially running okay, but would "chug" along at 2000 rpm if accelerated slowly and trailered boat okay.
I am now looking at getting parts for the fuel pump. The triangular fuel pump this motor has on it are now listed as obsolete, but internal parts are available from Mercury and aftermarket (sierra/mallory).
Here are questions I have:
1. It is possible to replace the triangular fuel pump with the more common and still available square fuel pump? If yes, what parts are needed to do so beside the fuel pump? Or am I better off keeping the original style pump and rebuilding it?
2. If no to question 1, what parts should I buy for the triangular fuel pump and are the OEM parts any worse/better than the after market parts?
3. The OEM part number for the triangular fuel pump diaphragm assembly is 55278A 5, but I can't find a list what it comes with. Does it come with a diaphragm, two gaskets, 1 o-ring and two seals like the aftermarket diaphragm sets I see listed?
4. If I'm working over the triangular fuel pump, what parts should I replace as "good practice" for doing a quality job? Just the diaphragm assembly and perhaps the check valve assembly?
My apologies for so many questions. I'm pretty mechanical, as my father was a mechanic, I'm mechanically inclined and I've rebuilt lots of stuff, but I'm not experienced working on boat motors.
I'm choosing to go ahead and rebuild the fuel pump, due to age and risk of dry rot, etc., but would like suggestions of how I should proceed should rebuilding the pump not correct the problem.
BTW, I was an electronics technician for many years and if need be, can build the necessary board to use a multi-meter as stator/coil test equipment and I am willing to take it to a dealer with specialized test equipment if need be.
Thank you for your help,
Dave
I have a 1986 Mercury 75HP 4 cylinder two cycle motor, SN 0A994929. It has a triangular fuel pump that is now listed as obsolete, but diaphragm kits and internal parts are still available.
When I purchased the motor, it had sat up for a long time without being ran. I decided to go ahead and rebuild the carburetors, replace rubber hoses, etc that may have dry rotted due to age and lack of use rather than risk clogging a carb with rubber debris. I didn't rebuild the fuel pump initially, but want to go back and do so after test running the motor on the lake. Here's the results of the test run:
Notes:
1 Fuel tank is new, bulb and all gas lines and filters from tank to fuel pump are new. Gas was fresh gas (bought near lake sydney lanier, no alcohol supposedly) with new Merc Quicksilver two cycle oil mixed using ratio recommendations for this motor. Only old part in fuel path was fuel pump. Carburetors were rebuilt with OEM parts and synced by a professional mechanic. Water pump was rebuilt as well with a complete rebuild kit.
2 Stator and trigger assembly are new, replaced due to wiring damage done by dirt dobber chewing up wires and shorting them, then original owner tried to start motor and fried wires so wires could not be repaired.) Rectifier was also replaced, due to corrosion caused by dirt dobber mud.
3 Compression test got 135 PSI on all cylinders and original spark plugs looked brand new when removed from motor for inspection and pre-oiling of cylinders with two cycle oil/carbon cleaner mix for storage while I was restoring the boat the motor came with. Transmission oil was replaced twice, to force out as much dirt as possible. Original tranny oil was dark, but not milky.
Lake test for motor:
Motor ran extremely strong on first day test, but was unable to check if motor had correct prop due to loose wire on tach. Fixed failed heat shrink insulation on tachometer wiring connector, which correct tach problem and reran lake test next day.
Motor ran strong cold for about 200-500 yards, but began to hesitate and bog down, as though fuel starved. Pumping bulb while operating motor did not correct problem and bulb was "firm" during test. Motor continued to have acceleration problems when accelerating from stop at WOT (holeshot) or when going from low rpm (2000) to WOT. Motor would bog out and would no longer run at WOT without stalling. Motor acted starved for fuel. The motor did not exhibit this behavior when cold, but did after a short run. Water pump flow showed excellent with extremely strong flow from "pee hole."
Note: I realize this may be a fuel issue or it may be a electronics/electrical issue even though the stator and trigger are new. So I'm looking for suggestions as to how to proceed as well as doing simple, inexpensive things that will eliminate other potential issues.
Motor had problems above 200 rpm after initially running okay, but would "chug" along at 2000 rpm if accelerated slowly and trailered boat okay.
I am now looking at getting parts for the fuel pump. The triangular fuel pump this motor has on it are now listed as obsolete, but internal parts are available from Mercury and aftermarket (sierra/mallory).
Here are questions I have:
1. It is possible to replace the triangular fuel pump with the more common and still available square fuel pump? If yes, what parts are needed to do so beside the fuel pump? Or am I better off keeping the original style pump and rebuilding it?
2. If no to question 1, what parts should I buy for the triangular fuel pump and are the OEM parts any worse/better than the after market parts?
3. The OEM part number for the triangular fuel pump diaphragm assembly is 55278A 5, but I can't find a list what it comes with. Does it come with a diaphragm, two gaskets, 1 o-ring and two seals like the aftermarket diaphragm sets I see listed?
4. If I'm working over the triangular fuel pump, what parts should I replace as "good practice" for doing a quality job? Just the diaphragm assembly and perhaps the check valve assembly?
My apologies for so many questions. I'm pretty mechanical, as my father was a mechanic, I'm mechanically inclined and I've rebuilt lots of stuff, but I'm not experienced working on boat motors.
I'm choosing to go ahead and rebuild the fuel pump, due to age and risk of dry rot, etc., but would like suggestions of how I should proceed should rebuilding the pump not correct the problem.
BTW, I was an electronics technician for many years and if need be, can build the necessary board to use a multi-meter as stator/coil test equipment and I am willing to take it to a dealer with specialized test equipment if need be.
Thank you for your help,
Dave