Stupid questions

johnbottsr

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Oct 6, 2012
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I have a 1972 6HP Johnson Seahorse for a kicker motor.
I started it in a bucket today and saw nothing at the pee-hole (even though I was overjoyed it started on about the 4th pull after being stored all winter).
Anyway, this particular motor has the extension on it to make it a long shaft.
Here is stupid question #1: Is the impeller at the top of the extension or beneath?

Also, I already replaced the lower unit oil (did so in the garage before running the motor). I used Pennzoil 80-90W marine even though I used Lubrimatic type C the last time.
Here is stupid question #2: Is the Pennzoil the right stuff?

Here is stupid question #3: Did I waste the lower unit oil because I will lose it when I replace the impeller?

Here is stupid question #4: I ordered part number 18-3202. It is the impeller and plate. Are there any other gaskets required for this repair?

I have searched and not found answers to these question so please don't think I want to be spoonfed.
 

raczekp1

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Messages
1,327
Re: Stupid questions

impeler is located more or less where lower unit meets extension,
Penzoil is ok,
will not loose any oil during impeler change
its good to check termostat,
gromet for water pump its good to change but not nesesery

Johnson
 

johnbottsr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 6, 2012
Messages
104
Re: Stupid questions

impeler is located more or less where lower unit meets extension,
Penzoil is ok,
will not loose any oil during impeler change
its good to check termostat,
gromet for water pump its good to change but not nesesery

Johnson

Thank you sir.
I have a follow up stupid question now even though I think I know the answer:
Will water exit through the pee-hole before the thermostat opens?
 

Willyclay

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Sep 8, 2006
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3,239
Re: Stupid questions

I used Lubrimatic type C the last time.

Type C gear oil is intended for electric-shift gearcases only. Probably didn't hurt anything but 80-90W marine stuff is recommended.

In the absence of a service manual, the Johnson link provided above by member raczekp1 is very useful for most routine maintenance tasks with that motor. I have the 1973 Evinrude version and it is a jewel.

BTW, the only stupid questions on this forum are the ones NOT asked. Good luck with that great old motor!
 
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johnbottsr

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Re: Stupid questions

It really is a great motor. A little younger than I am.
I push my Crestliner 216 with it to troll and it goes like a champ.

Anyone know if I can lock it into a steering position (straight)?

I know I should get a manual and will, soon.
 

Rick.

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3,740
Re: Stupid questions

Watch for a round pin near the top of the drive shaft when removing the lower unit. When re-installing the drive shaft you may need to turn the prop a little to align the pin. Best of luck. Rick.
 

Willyclay

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Re: Stupid questions

Will water exit through the pee-hole before the thermostat opens?

There is no pee-hole/telltale outlet on the stock motor unless you or someone else has modified it to that configuration. However, water normally exits from the exhaust relief outlet located on the rear of the exhaust housing just a few inches(EDIT: 8in.) below the lower cowling. When the T-stat is functioning normally, only a small amount of water will be noticed until the motor warms up and the T-stat opens. At idle, it will be more like a fine mist but at higher rpm's, there will be substantially more water noticeable. If you are running it in a barrel to test it, the water should be maintained just below the exhaust relief outlet hole.
 
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johnbottsr

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Re: Stupid questions

I will try to get some pictures tomorrow of what I am looking at.
Push comes to shove I bought this motor a few years ago and never replaced the impeller - probably time.
 

boobie

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Re: Stupid questions

How big of a bucket did you start it in ?? Was the water level up to the exhaust reliefs ?? Those pumps are not self priming and have to imerged in water to work.
 

johnbottsr

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Re: Stupid questions

How big of a bucket did you start it in ?? Was the water level up to the exhaust reliefs ?? Those pumps are not self priming and have to imerged in water to work.

I was a bit over the cavitation plate (or anti-cavitation plate - still learning the proper terminology).
I don't really think there is a problem with the motor but am going to change the impeller just 'cause.
 

Crosbyman

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Re: Stupid questions

type C use to be recommended in the older motors like qd and fd...because I purchased some couple years ago.
 

Willyclay

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Re: Stupid questions

type C use to be recommended in the older motors like qd and fd...because I purchased some couple years ago.

Your comment reminded me to always see what the manual says and here it is: "Refill with OMC Sea-Lube Gearcase Lubricant or OMC Type 'C' Lubricant". Sorry for any confusion I may have created. Good luck!
 

johnbottsr

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Re: Stupid questions

Your comment reminded me to always see what the manual says and here it is: "Refill with OMC Sea-Lube Gearcase Lubricant or OMC Type 'C' Lubricant". Sorry for any confusion I may have created. Good luck!
So I need to drain the Pennzoil GL5 and replace with the type C?
 

boobie

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Re: Stupid questions

Leave the Pennzoil in it as it won't hurt a thing.
 

Willyclay

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Re: Stupid questions

Anyone know if I can lock it into a steering position (straight)?

You may be able to accomplish what you desire with the Steering Friction adjustment. The spring-loaded adustment screw is located directly below the Reverse Lock Arm on the Swivel Bracket. If you have any factory documentation on that motor, this may also be called the Co-pilot Feature. I would try that first because, if it does not work, your only other choices may be bungee-cords around the Steering Bracket or something more rigid like a link/arm bolted to the Steering Bracket. The highlighted references match the descriptions in the online parts catalog linked in kfa4303's post. As best as I can tell, the "co-pilot" name only appears in the hard-copy OEM Parts Catalog. Good luck!
 
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johnbottsr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Messages
104
Re: Stupid questions

You may be able to accomplish what you desire with the Steering Friction adjustment. The spring-loaded adustment screw is located directly below the Reverse Lock Arm on the Swivel Bracket. If you have any factory documentation on that motor, this may also be called the Co-pilot Feature. I would try that first because, if it does not work, your only other choices may be bungee-cords around the Steering Bracket or something more rigid like a link/arm bolted to the Steering Bracket. The highlighted references match the descriptions in the online parts catalog linked in kfa4303's post. As best as I can tell, the "co-pilot" name only appears in the hard-copy OEM Parts Catalog. Good luck!

Ah! Looked all over for something like that but not up front.
I'll give it a shot.
If not, back to the bungee.

I really need to get a manual.

Thanks.
 

Willyclay

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Re: Stupid questions

Ah! Looked all over for something like that but not up front.

I played with mine yesterday to see if I could get it tight enough to maintain a straight course and I have my doubts because of the grease that is in that area of the swivel tube. Yours may work okay. It's certainly worth the effort. BTW, you will need a bright light to see the screwhead because it is recessed underneath the bracket. Good luck!
 

johnbottsr

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Re: Stupid questions

Thanks Willy.
I did manage to tighten it and it is better but I think I will keep the bungee handy.
Right now I am doing the impeller and it looks like the PO put a ferrous lock washer on the shift linkage.
Also, can't get quite enough separation for a socket and scared to bung it up with a flathead.

Lower unit is supposed to drop down 3/4" in Reverse, yes?

Here is what I am looking at:

gap.jpg

You can see the rust around the star washer.
The other bolt looks cleaner but I can't get on it.
I can just barely get on the one in the picture.

Sprayed it with deep creep and collecting my thoughts.
 
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Rick.

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Jul 30, 2006
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3,740
Re: Stupid questions

Pull your plugs and rotate your prop while pulling down on the lower unit. That little pin at the top of the drive shaft will find the right alignment to drop and allow the loser unit to drop more. Rick.
 
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