tilt/trim motor

manzi

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
16
Hello folks,
Thank you to everyone who has helped me recently. Need some more advice. I just purchased a use tilt/trim motor attached to the engine bracket for my 1989 125hp Force. The outside of the trim motor/pump is very clean. We operated the motor at the boat yard. Tilt ram worked fine. My initial intent was to just use the trim motor because the bracket on my unit, where it attaches to the engine bracket, is cracked. Now, I'm thinking about using the complete tilt/trim/motor/pump assembly. I took off the cap(where the wires go in) to the trim motor to have a look inside. Very clean, no corrosion. I tried to lift the armature up but it feels like there is some type of spring holding it back. Not sure, but there was definitely some resistance and I did not force the issue. So I guess I'll leave it alone. I lightly sanded the armature where the brushes contact. Attached is a picture of the brush assembly. Do you thin the brushes have enough life or should they be replaced? Also, should I just splice my existing wires onto the "new" unit, or can I remove the wires from the brush assembly and reattach my wiires?
Thanks again for all your help.
Ken
 

manzi

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
16
Re: tilt/trim motor

For some reason, I can't see the photo. Let me try again. Apologies.
 

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Highlander70

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
12
Re: tilt/trim motor

to me they look fine, mine looked about the same and mines a 88. if it aint broke dont fix it :)
i would just splice the wires
its a little bit of a pain to get that cap back on, i found that pushing one side back at a time with a small thin screwdriver worked out best in my situation
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: tilt/trim motor

The "spring" or resistance you felt is probably the magnetic field from the magnets acting upon the armature. The brushes look fine. Just be aware that the end of the shaft on the armature that engages the gears in the valve body is machined to fit a slot in the valve body gear. If you pull up on the armature and turn it, there's a good chance that it may have become disengaged with the gear. To get it back in place, slowly turn the armature until it drops down about an 1/8 of an inch. Another clue that it's not properly seated is you won't be able to get the brush assembly cap back on and seated down all the way. Just my opinion but I would tend to agree with Highlander70, splice the wires and solder, then put some heat shrink to protect the splice.
 

manzi

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
16
Re: tilt/trim motor

Once again, thank you all for your input.
Highlander, PNWBOAT, you are exactly right. I finally got the armature out by lifting the outer casing. It was the magnetic resistance I felt. I will follow the recommendations to splice and leave the brushes alone.
Just one more question. As I stated above, I am replacing my old one because of the cracked bracket, which seem to be caused by the expansion from the corrosion that was under the bracket. The corrosion was from the engine bracket. Do you see any issue with adding a couple of SS washers to each of the mounting bolts to keep the T/T bracket away from the engine bracket so saltwater will drain and not collect in there? Anybody ever add an addtional zinc to these engines? I don't think the one behind the prop is doing much as it hasn't changed in the seven years I owned the boat, although the boat is not stored in saltwater.
Thanks,
Ken
 

foodfisher

Captain
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
3,756
Re: tilt/trim motor

Salt and aluminum is always going to be a problem. The only solution I see is to seal (paint,grease?) both "clean" mating surfaces.
 

manzi

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
16
Re: tilt/trim motor

Thanks, foodfisher. I definitely will wire brush then seal/paint the affected areas.
 
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