Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

adt2

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Hello, forum, my name is Andrew and it's been eight months since my last confession.

When last we spoke, I was trying to decipher what appeared to be an under-performing 1957 Johnson 35HP for my 15' Westport Skiff, Buoy Scout. We never did get her running well last season, and I eventually gave up and parked her in the barn for the winter.

Fast-forward to this past weekend. I drug the boat and motor to the local AOMC swap meet, and all sorts of good things happened. For starters, the experienced guys quickly determined what my problem was (face palm: needed a long-shaft). Mark that down as good thing #1. Shortly on the heels of this revelation, I met a guy who happened to have all the parts I needed to convert my short-shaft to a long-shaft unit. Mark that down as good thing #2.

Before leaving, I picked up a great-looking 1958 Evinrude Big Twin 35HP with a MUCH better-looking electric start setup than my Johnson (which uses a liberal amount of electrician's tape). This thing is in what appears to be primo shape inside and out and I got it for a steal ($175 plus $30 for a tiller-arm sitting nearby). Mark that down as good thing #3.

Slightly off-topic but continuing the "good thing" motif, I met a handful of really nice, helpful people, two of which invited me over to their places on the lake the following day to make my repairs and take her for a spin. Mark that down as good thing #4. We hit a few snags but quickly got it all ironed out and dropped the rig in the water. Shazam! The difference between yesterday and last summer is night and day. Boat is now plenty fast (about 25mph, with three grown men, three full 6-gallon cans, a battery, a full toolbox, and a 4-year-old) and motor runs beautifully. Mark that down as good thing #5.

We noticed on the way back to the ramp that the reinforcement board inside the transom was developing a split, so that'll need some surgery before we go back out. Bad thing #2. (Didn't mention bad thing #1 - dropped iPhone in the water at the ramp. Doh.)

So. I get home this afternoon and go out to inspect the "new" Evinrude. It's a Big Twin manual start model 25034, but a previous owner has installed an electric start setup. The cabling is neat and clean, and he's installed a nice pushbutton start button on the lower portion of the front of the motor. So far so good.

I pulled the battery out of the board and started to hook up the new motor, just to satisfy my curiosity that it would turn over (I didn't think to do that at the swap meet - probably foolishly). Attached the positive cable and tightened down the nut. Started to attach the negative and BAM! That sucker sparked and started cranking. Like, without me pushing any buttons or anything. Which seems like a problem for everyday use.

Can somebody tell me what's going on here? Why would the thing crank as soon as power is applied? (Bear in mind I have done exactly NO snooping around on the motor - I just wanted to see if it was alive.)
 

bonzoscott

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2008
Messages
745
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

What ever that switch (push button) starter is the problem. It must be stuck. Not knowing what exactly it is, can't quite tell you how to test it.
 

adt2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Missing solenoid?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
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27,142
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Andrew, Normally the pushbutton will send +12VDC voltage and about 3 Amps to a starter solenoid. The solenoid will then close connecting heavy battery cables to the starter, say 150 Amps. If you could get a picture of the setup, that would help a lot.
 

adt2

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

I didn't get a picture of it, but I did inspect it. The positive (red) wire is shorter, and is connected directly to the starter motor. The negative (black) wire is bolted to the motor frame (ground), and it's several feet longer than the red wire. I think the button is the kill switch, not the starter button. There's no tiller arm on this motor, so I'm guessing it was a remote-steer (and therefore remote start) unit. That's what makes me think some component or other is missing between the battery and the starter motor.
 

ronboonville

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287
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Yep, are you missing a solenoid? or hooking up to the wrong side, post?
 

adt2

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

I think I'm missing a solenoid. I'm currently googling it, because frankly I don't know what one looks like - but I know what cables look like, and I know what the starter motor looks like....and there ain't anything else.

Edit: Wow, there are a lot of different solenoids to choose from. Can somebody point me in the right direction re: solenoid selection, and also I suspect I need another pushbutton or other starting mechanism?
 

rrw

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104
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Hi, you could probably use one from napa, look at the link below. You just have to run your positive battery cable to one of the large studs, then run another cable from the other large stud to your starter +. Then run battery power to your button, and another wire from your button to the "trigger" stud on the solenoid. You could mount the solenoid under the cowling if you wanted, otherwise proly mount it remotely on your boat, its up to you. Hope this helps, Ryan


NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS
 

adt2

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Okay, I've located the starter solenoid; now I need some help locating the proper pushbutton to make it work. I suspect I need a momentary-on, normally open, marine pushbutton. There are several to choose from, but frankly they all look kinda small and fragile. I can't find any specs on the solenoids re: amperage, and I've seen pushbuttons from 5A/12V all the way to 60A/12V.

What am I shopping for here?
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Go to your local farm or auto store and look for starter push buttons. Just a few bucks. They work on tractors they will work on your outboard.
 

geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 8, 2010
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394
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Just about any push button would do,it's only to close the circuit to the solenoid and carries very little amperage.Napa have a selection,As with anything the lowest price ones will be the least robust but they'll all do the same thing.
 

adt2

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

Okay, thanks. I stopped by Tractor Supply last night, and they had a push button but frankly it looked like it was just going to make the motor look more jury-rigged. I'm going to keep looking until I find something that strikes my fancy. Now that I know that just about any button will work, I can broaden my search.

Thanks for the tips. One last question - is there any benefit to purchasing a "marine" solenoid from Arco or Sierra or somewhere that's specifically intended to replace the SW081 on an old Evinrude, or are they like nuts and bolts and I should just find one that fits and go with it?
 

ronboonville

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

I read all the time that it is suggested to only get a marine solenoid. However the one on my old boat has been in use for 2 or three years, and pretty sure I got it at a farm store.Can't tell you the difference. My boat and tractor are kept outside. so maybe someone can explain the difference..........
 

adt2

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Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

I'm thinking whatever I buy should last a good long time, since I keep mine trailered and in the barn when not in use. We don't live on the water, so we have to drag it to the lake when we want to play, and drag it back home after. It's never spent a night outside.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,142
Re: Need Some Help Deciphering Homebrew Electric Start Setup

If freshwater, most any switch will work and last a long time. If saltwater, stick with marine-grade. Need about a 3A push button switch, but most any switch will last a while with light use.
 
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