1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Lewis · Mar 13, 2013

Hi all,
First trip out this spring last weekend, and the tilt was clearly struggling: moving very slowly, particularly when tilting down. It ground almost to a halt several times, but never quite died. At the very end of the trip, it did quit moving completely, and melted the insulation off of the wiring that runs from the trim/tilt motor up under the cowl, and one 6" length of wire under the cowl. I'm guessing that the problem is the trim/tilt motor itself, but wanted to hear from folks who know more than I do (that's most of you!). Does this sound like a problem with the trim/tilt motor, as opposed to a relay or the ram? Are there any ways to diagnose for sure? And finally, assuming it is the motor, is it best to just replace the motor/reservoir unit with an aftermarket unit rather than trying to rebuild?
Thanks,
Lewis

oldman570 · Mar 13, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

If it melted the insulation off the wires as stated then the tilt trim motor is bad and needs rebuilt at a local motor repair shop or a new motor for that tilt trim system. Getting it rebuilt would probbly be cheaper and shops that do that type of work can be found in the Yellow Pages of the local phone book or the online one for your aera. A new motor can be bought here on Iboats or at most all dealers. When replacing the wires that burnt use wire of the same size or larger for the repair. JMO
Oldman570

RRitt · Mar 14, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

the cost of parts from mercury to rebuild a trim motor can often be more than the cost of a new motor. cheaply built (only lasts 5 years) motor for your engine can be found in the 110-150 range.

Lewis · Mar 14, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Thanks! I will be sure to redo wiring with adequate gauge replacement. In fact, I have some with Teflon insulation that is the right gauge, and I even have it in the right color! I will order a new aftermarket unit; as you noted, they are just a little over $100.
Lewis

Lewis · Mar 14, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

A question about removing/replacing the motor and reservoir. I cut the following from an old post here:

"1. disconnect the green and blue wires into the cowling (just behind the oil reservoir)2. lift the motor, engage the tilt lock lever3. remove the crosspin and the upper retaining pin with a punch3. remove the anode at the bottom of the bracket and do the same thing to the lower pin (there's a hole to push on it just under the release valve access)"

Does that sound about right? Any gotchas I should be aware of? (I still have nightmares about my first attempt as a kid to replace a recoil spring!)
Thanks,
Lewis

RRitt · Mar 15, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

if your wires are melted, then just take the opportunity to install a new trim harness and relays. they are only $30. Look for one with an inline fuse or circuit breaker.

USMarine-Force invented the current defacto standard for trim wiring back in 1980's. Mercury inherited with purchase of Force. It is such a superior wiring scheme that it became a universal standard used on almost everything. it is also the same thing as the $30 generic trim harness sold on internet. they are often sold as 3w to 2w conversion harness. In fact - if you search - you'll find bundles including both the motor you need and a harness for around $150. Look for one with inline fuse ATC fuse holder. Some just put spade terminals directly onto an atc fuse. They aren't as good as the ones with fuse holder.

The above instructions sound good. The important thing is to make the engine 110% securely braced.

oldman570 · Mar 15, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Sounds right to me also. As RRitt states be safe and when the motor is tilted up be sure that it cannot fall back down on you while working on it. I always use the new grasshopper fuses and replace any inline glass fuses when working on electrical wireing on the motor. Dielicteric gresse and wareproof fuse holders to do the replacement can be bought at most auto stores. JMO
Oldman570

Lewis · Mar 15, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Thanks again! Good advice about the relays and harness. The new motor/reservoir unit comes with a harness that goes up under the cowl. With the exception of one length that I will replace, the wiring within the cowl is fine. I will get a couple of spare relays to carry in the boat. There is not currently a fuse in that circuit, but I'd like to add one. What amperage would you suggest?
Lewis

RRitt · Mar 15, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

12awg ATC fuse holder loop with 25a self-reset circuit breaker (stays open until you turn power off and then resets itself ).
then you are never stuck at ramp searching for a fuse and also protected from melted wires.

If you have a harness and would prefer a circuit breaker with two terminal posts then search ebay for a Force circuit breaker. It is a water resistant push to reset breaker that fits nicely under cowl. I have seen them on ebay for $12 before.

Lewis · Mar 31, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Little more help, please! I have a new T/T motor, but can't tell how to remove the old one and install the new one. There are four machine screws attaching it. The front two were easy, but I can't get to the back two. My guess is that the whole assembly will tilt forward enough to reach those screws if I un-pin the ram at the top. The pin looks like it is slotted for a very large flat-head screwdriver, but I'm afraid to force it. Is it correct that I need to remove that pin, and if so, how?
Thanks again,
Lewis

RRitt · Mar 31, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

there is a drive pin the serves same function as cotter pin. it is about 1/8" diameter and is either knurled, tapered, or tri-lobed so that it can be securely driven into position with a punch. You need to locate this "trilobe pin" and drive it out.

Once the retaining pin is out then the 9/16" mounting shaft can be easily pushed out with punch or screwdriver (assuming freshwater boat). Make sure to securely block engine and relieve all pressure on trim system before starting. Once the pin is out, the engine will be free to fall. Make sure that your blocking is very, very secure.

Lewis · Mar 31, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Thanks, RRitt! I feel kind of stupid for even trying to turn the big pin with a screwdriver when it had the knurled pin in it. The smaller knurled pin pulled right out, and then the big pin came out with one gentle tap. The screwdriver slot on the big pin is obviously just to turn that pin to line it up for the smaller pin.

Lewis · Mar 31, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

It got dark on me, so I had to quit for the evening. I did get everything more or less put together and working. I need to redo the wiring, because I just wired it up temporarily to get it tilting up and down. I also need to reinstall the knurled pin! That's the kind of detail I'm always afraid I will forget if I have to walk away from the project for a few days. But all seems to be working well -- after a few cycles, it now goes all the way up and all the way down without any noises, any hesitation, or heating up any of the wiring.
Thanks to everyone, and particularly RRitt, for all your help!
Lewis

quicktach · Apr 1, 2013

Re: 1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

Make sure the electrical connections are clean and tight. Lock washers are helpful so nothing loosens up.

1994 60HP trim/tilt burned insulation

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