Question on bilge pump

footbrake

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Hi again, My boat came with a manual bilge pump, seeing the gent took it out every time. I plan on docking the boat, so should I replace the bilge pump with an automatic one or just put a float switch on the one that is already there?
Also why are some float switches $15.00 and some go up to $40.00, don't they all do the same thing?? Thanks-Russ
 

MinUph

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Definitely put an automatic one in. Adding a float switch to the existing one or buying a new one doesn't matter.
 

JoLin

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Re: Question on bilge pump

No reason not to simply add a float switch to the existing pump. Yeah, they all do the same thing, and they all need to be checked manually once in awhile. From all I've read and seen/heard firsthand... stick with Rule. None of 'em last forever, but Rule has the most consistently good rep. for bilge pumps and float switches.

I'll add that you want a good fitting mooring cover to shed most of the rain water. If you have an onboard charger that you can keep plugged in at the dock, do that too.

My .02
 

Merc4ever

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Go with auto either way doesn't matter unless you don't have much room in your bilge then you might want a all in one unit that is more space saving and less wires. Be sure to hook it up to a battery wire that is hot all the time so you don't forget to turn it on and come back to find your engine block under water! Auto is a must and I say this from personal experience, it saved my butt on my leaky Baja that had a mysteriously rare leak around the engine transom seal from loose mounting bolts. BTW I found and fixed that major problem with help from Iboats! I would imagine price would go along with quality but if you stick with a popular brand name you can't go wrong. I always try to buy Made in USA parts when I can because I trust them more than foreign junk.
 
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aerobat

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Re: Question on bilge pump

on a docked boat in any case go for a full auto bilge pump and make sure its hot wired to the battery so will work even with main switch off. on my last boat i installed an automatic johnson pump with and made very good results with it.

my current boat has a jabsco and it also works very fine.
 

Grandad

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Re: Question on bilge pump

I agree with what's said above, but would add that you should still carry that manual pump as a backup and check its function, too, once in a while. - Grandad
 

mxcobra

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Re: Question on bilge pump

I would leave the manual pump as is. Then add a secound pump with an auto switch this way you are double safe.
In the case of a saftey device, like a bilge pump two is always better then one.
 

Home Cookin'

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Re: Question on bilge pump

I would leave the manual pump as is. Then add a secound pump with an auto switch this way you are double safe.
In the case of a saftey device, like a bilge pump two is always better then one.

I agree with this
 

airshot

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Re: Question on bilge pump

I would leave the manual pump as is. Then add a secound pump with an auto switch this way you are double safe.
In the case of a saftey device, like a bilge pump two is always better then one.

Have to second this one as well, also consider two batteries with one pump on each battery, "just in case" that is how my boat is set up trying to cover all my bases...

Airshot
 

Merc4ever

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Have to second this one as well, also consider two batteries with one pump on each battery, "just in case" that is how my boat is set up trying to cover all my bases...

Airshot

article-2272175-174A8108000005DC-803_634x422.jpg

I agree there are times that we never have enough pumps!
 

footbrake

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Would anyone have a diagram showing me how to use the 2 batteries and auto bilge to one and the manual bilge that works off a switch on the dashboard to the other? Does the motor charge both batteries at the same time while running? Thanks-Russ
 

Don S

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Here is how I do them. I hook the bilge pump directly to the the house battery that way the auto pump is still usable with the battery switch off. The house battery is usually the largest and longest lasting of the two, plus even if the pump runs the house battery down, if the battery switch is shut off, you still can start the engine.
This drawing also shows an optional light you can put on your dash that will tell you if the pump is running even if you can't hear it.

attachment.php



Does the motor charge both batteries at the same time while running?

Only if you have the battery switch in the BOTH/ALL position.









.
 

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MinUph

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Would anyone have a diagram showing me how to use the 2 batteries and auto bilge to one and the manual bilge that works off a switch on the dashboard to the other? Does the motor charge both batteries at the same time while running? Thanks-Russ
Wiring these two pups are pretty straight forward. On the Auto one you would run both hot and ground to a battery and the switched one would be ground to the battery and a hot wire to the switch and a switched hot to the pump. They will have diagrams on the pump you but. If your going to run two batteries a battery switch would also be in order.

Good diagram while I was typing lol
 

aerobat

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Re: Question on bilge pump

one additional info : the johnson pump had only a two way switch - off or on. on means manual running and off meant "armed" . my current has a three way switch with off , auto and on. so auto is armed and off is truly off. any time the boat is in the water is stays on "auto"

its not that hard work to wire it - just take your time and do not rush .
 

Don S

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Re: Question on bilge pump

one additional info : the johnson pump had only a two way switch - off or on. on means manual running and off meant "armed" . my current has a three way switch with off , auto and on. so auto is armed and off is truly off. any time the boat is in the water is stays on "auto"

its not that hard work to wire it - just take your time and do not rush .

The drawing above only has an on off switch on the panel, the problem with the setup you have is all the wiring has to run all the way forward and back to the pump. You also have to remember to turn it to auto.
If the fuse blows or the switch dies you loose all power to the pump either way you go. When done as in my drawing, if the fuse to the float switch fails or the wire breaks, you still have power from your boats fuse panel to run the pump. Two completely different power sources, and shorter wires.


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aerobat

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Re: Question on bilge pump

thats right .

like said - my last boat pump had a two way and the current a three way switch. i do not see much use to switch it to "real off" while docked so the johnson two way switch on my last boat was really nice , but three way switches seems nevertheless not to be uncommon so he can be aware.

beyond that - i think its in any case a good idea to look very carefully when the pump has to work hard since a full automatic is your last insurance to prevent your boat sinking when you are at home and in optimum case it should stay unemployed when your boat is docked.

cheers

edit : don, did you not mixed up your second drawing ? i think manual is auto and auto is manual on the three way switch in your picture- in one case the + current goes directly via the switch ( manual ) and in the second case via the float switch ( auto )

i think the description above the three way switch should be changed .
 

airshot

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Re: Question on bilge pump

On my Islander both bilge pumps are fully automatic and wired directly to each battery so ignition switch placement has no bearing on pump operation. Primary pump works off guest battery (large deep cycle) and secondary pump is mounted higher up so it will come on if primary fails or cannot keep up. Both bilge pumps have a manual overide switch on the dash. With overide switch on pump runs continuosly, when switched off the auto float switch takes over, nothing to remember to set. And yes I have a battery switch to maintain the batteries. I use an onboard trickle charger for the deep cycle and tha main engine keeps the start battery charged. Deep cycle batterys should not be charged a high amps (boat alternator) unless absolutely necessary, thus the trickle charger to plug into shore power or while on trailer at home.

Airshot
 

footbrake

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Re: Question on bilge pump

Thanks for all the info , now for one last thing. I'm new to this and don't want to sound dumb but should I run a seperate thru-haul fitting for the second pump, or put a T in the bilge pump line that is there? thanks
 

aerobat

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Re: Question on bilge pump

basicly you run a separate fitting for the second pump since in other case when one pump is running it may push the water through the line into the other pump and finally back into the bilge instead overboard. you might try somekind of valves in the line but separate lines are the true solution.

when it boils down you have to make new through hull openings you might consider to make a new pump in the place of the old one and use the old line. i agree you cannot have to much pumps but on the other hand one high capacity automatic pump should keep you out of trouble for a lifetime.
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Question on bilge pump

We normally trailer, but our boat spends several weeks docked in the water when we're at the lake in Canada. I came out one morning after heavy rains and the bilge had a large amount of water; a leaf stem was stuck in the bilge pump and it wasn't working. After that, I installed a second bilge pump, float switch and a dedicated battery in my boat.

There is absolutely no way I'd rely on a single pump, especially for a boat that will be at dock for any period of time. A pump and switch can be had for less than a hundred bucks. Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me...

Jim

P.S. Add a second thru-hull fitting for the second pump. It's not hard and it will avoid the problems others have described.
 
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