Trailer overloaded?

Does this photo look funny to anyone besides me? Bought a boat and trailer last fall and the PO mentioned it had a heavy duty axle. Was thinking about adding a second axle, after cleaning up all the rusty stuff. 19ft fiberglass boat well over 3k lbs when loaded.



Thxs

Re: Trailer overloaded?

Hmm. Not a lot of suspension travel, is there?

I think the axle is supposed to be below the springs on this one.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

The frame, spring mount/axle fore-aft adjustment pads look the same as on my Caulkins. If it is the same, it should have a rectangular axle mounted below the springs and with the correct axle, those 6X2 inch boxed side rails make the trailer good for 3900 pounds with 14 inch tires. Notice how thick the spring leaves are--they are heavy duty, Also notice that the axle has bent the spreader bar which keeps the spring mounts separated the correct distance..

That trailer needs work--not a lot, but enough to make it road worthy. Right now, with the axle solid against the frame, it is not a road worthy trailer. Oh, it will get you there and back, but you will be using the tires as springs and you will be beating the axle against the frame over every minor bump. ---Not a good thing.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

A PO over slung the axle to drop the trailer, probably to make launch/retrieve easier - in his mind. Round tube or rectangular tube axle matters not (completely interchangeable) to the springs as long as the rating matches the trailer. And along with beating the frame, it's beating the boat.

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Right now, with the axle solid against the frame, it is not a road worthy trailer.

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That's the only part of your statement that is incorrect.
There are plenty of trailers out on the road both homemade and factory constructed that have the spindle mounted directly to the frame. Just because they are rigid doesn't made not road worthy.

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To clarify: The spindles are NOT mounted directly to the frame and the trailer was not designed that way. As I said, every little bump will beat the axle against the frame eventually resulting in failure of either the axle or frame. As it stands, it is NOT roadworthy even though as I also said, now, it will get him there and back. No telling what the stuff inside the boat will look like though! It will certainly mix well the oil with the gas though (for a premix outboard)--LOL

If it were a trailer that I only used in a boat yard or at a launch area I would leave it alone. But if I had to tow any length on public roads at posted speeds, I would repair it correctly.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

bifflefan said:

That's the only part of your statement that is incorrect.
There are plenty of trailers out on the road both homemade and factory constructed that have the spindle mounted directly to the frame. Just because they are rigid doesn't made not road worthy.

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No actually Frank WAS correct.... You state that plenty of trailers have axle mounted to frame without springs... while somewhat true tho not applicable here it is irrelevant because the axle on the trailer is NOT mounted to the frame. it is beating against it.

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Frank ALSO types faster than I do LOL

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Okay you Mad Men. It is a Caulkins, and I believe someone has lowered it. Honestly I love how low it sits...but not at the expense of damage. The PO did not use it much, he had the boat in warehouse storage. Not sure about other PPOwners. Have not owned a lot of trailers but I think this is a decent one. It also has a funky roller/bunks setup. I sink it deep at the launch and the boat floats 90% of the way on.



So pls do come ahead with what needs to be remedied. Can I just flip the axle under the springs and replace the spreader bar? I am beginning to trailer it more often 30 plus miles and want to drag it to canada next summer. It always towed half way straight but I never could relax behind the wheel. Just couldn't put my finger on the problemo till now.

BTW...you guys are damn good! Have not had the hubs off...I imagine the surge drum brakes are way corroded inside. Should I bother trying to clean and rebuild or just replace brake parts? Bleeder value is so rusty it wont budge. If I get it out can I splice a section of steel braid line to replace the mangled flared end with the bleeder valve? Assuming the worst on the old valve.

Thxs, Todd

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actually it looks to be missing shackles on the springs...

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Try moving the axle under the springs.

I would just replace the brake assemblies completely. Not worth the hassle of trying to fix what sounds like a pretty gruesome mess, IMO.

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And I thought it was the wire hanging loose ... :facepalm:

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The axle & suspension look like an aftermarket add-on and was not done correctly. It really is not the right type of abutments for the springs. As the others have said, the axle is actually resting on the frame. The springs are just along for the ride. . . . I would not be surprised if the springs are under sized for the load.

Hopefully, things will go better next time.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

tpenfield said:

The axle & suspension look like an aftermarket add-on and was not done correctly. It really is not the right type of abutments for the springs. As the others have said, the axle is actually resting on the frame. The springs are just along for the ride. . . . I would not be surprised if the springs are under sized for the load.

Hopefully, things will go better next time.

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The springs should have an id number stamped on them to use to confirm the load capacity rating?
Thxs, Todd

Re: Trailer overloaded?



Your springs and hangers are correct. The springs don't have shackles. There is no eye at the rear, only an open loop to allow movement as the spring straightens. The spreader bar can be starightened. You simply need to remove the axle and flip it under the springs.

However, while your spring leaves appear to be as thick as mine, the springs have one short leaf less than mine. So, you may be rated slightly less than my trailer.

NOW: IF the spindles are tapered and have large bearings --something like 1 1/2 to 2 inch inners and 1 1/16 outers--then the axle is probably rated for over 3000 pounds. If it has straight spindles with 1 1/16 or 1 inch bearings, then it is too small and rated for less than 3000 pounds so, you need to check that. My Caulkins came with posi-lube hubs but no brakes. I am at about 3200 gross weight being towed by an S10. While it stops adequately, I am strongly considering adding brakes. Not only for my safety and peace of mind, but to make the trailer legal in the states I tow.

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Looks to me like the frame is already bent or deformed where it is in contact with the axle.

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You cannot flip a cambered axle, which this apparently is, unless you also remove the spring perches and have them welded on 180 degrees around the tube. That is a hydraulic line hanging down which was broken off as the axle pounded against the frame. Keep in mind that every bump this trailer hits, the frame and its load rises creating a gap between the axle and frame. As the load comes down the frame contacts the axle again. This is happening a gazillion times in a 30 mile trip and will ultimately lead to failure of something. The frame looks to have about half the lower part of the beam pounded though which is weakening the frame at that point. I would also have a close look at the axle in that same area. Since this was a modification, it may be the rear spring perch was moved to flatten the springs a bit. Only problem is it was moved too much. If there are extra open holes back there then the mount has been moved. If not, then the axle was moved from beneath to above the spring as everyone suggests. As it is, it is definitely not a road worthy trailer. If the GVWR is over 3000 - 3500# (depending on the state) you are in violation of not having functional trailer brakes. Since the system has been open to the air for an extended period, you need a complete system replacement. As a miniumum you would need a new master cylinder and probably the shock absorber as well, reverse solenoid if it has one, new lines, new brake hoses, and rebuilt wheel cylinders and probably shoes. Since that's about 85% of the entire system, go for complete replacement and be assured the system works when you are done.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

Silvertip said:

You cannot flip a cambered axle, which this apparently is, unless you also remove the spring perches and have them welded on 180 degrees around the tube. That is a hydraulic line hanging down which was broken off as the axle pounded against the frame.

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How can you tell the axle is cambered? I also see only a broken wire hanging down, not a broken brake line.

Re: Trailer overloaded?

NYBo said:

How can you tell the axle is cambered? I also see only a broken wire hanging down, not a broken brake line.

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stand well back of the trailer and look at the center of the axle. A non cambered axle is perfectly straight. A cambered axle will be bowed upward slightly in the center

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I agree on that, no up and down movement