1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Rebuilding carb today and I did not realize a special tool was needed to remove nozzles - and of course I twisted it off at the slot. I was able to remove it, clean the carb and put it back together with half of the slot gone. Is this ok or do I have to get a new high speed nozzle?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Since the nozzle gasket seals it to the center bore of the bowl chamber, it should work. I haven't had this exact thing happen, but I don't see why the metered fuel from below wouldn't pass through the rest of the nozzle normally. Top secret files sticky post in this forum has a salvage yards link. One of 'em is tim's outboard 218-682-2331. Positive they'll have a used one cheap they could send you, if it doesn't run right as-is...

Good luck!

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

The nozzle is none removeable. Try it and see what happens . Don't forget the gasket that goes around it.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Actually the nozzle is removeable. I always pull them out when I clean the carb. The slot is weak though as you found out. Sometimes they need some penetrating oil to get them out. A screwdriver with a good fit helps too.

201B o rings work well as a nozzle gasket. I buy them in bags of 100.

I dont see any harm in running it like that, but as stated, the nozzle is extremely common. Should not be hard to find. A salvage yard will most definately have one, or a post in the webvertize at aomci.org.

If you get stuck let me know.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

I have a carb rebuild kit - from either Laings or Seaway can't remember. There is not an oring for this spot, nor was there an oring there when I opened it the carb. My rebuild kit has a bunch of extra gaskets and the one that fit best appeared to be a Teflon gasket (white thin sheet gasket). I had a packing ring left over that would not fit, a red hard plastic gasket that didn't seem to go anywhere a 3/16 thick brown softer washer that did not have a home either. It was sort of frustrating to have a bag of parts instead of them labeled as to where they went. Is there anyone that does a better labeled carb kit or can you offer advice?

HighTrim said:

Actually the nozzle is removeable. I always pull them out when I clean the carb. The slot is weak though as you found out. Sometimes they need some penetrating oil to get them out. A screwdriver with a good fit helps too.

201B o rings work well as a nozzle gasket. I buy them in bags of 100.

I dont see any harm in running it like that, but as stated, the nozzle is extremely common. Should not be hard to find. A salvage yard will most definately have one, or a post in the webvertize at aomci.org.

If you get stuck let me know.

Click to expand...

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Well there is most definately supposed to be a gasket there. The ones in the kit will be a thick, gasket type.

You will have a few leftover parts when you purchase a carb kit.

The gaskets important to you are the nozzle gasket mentioned. 4 packing washers for the low and high speed jets (2 each). The float chamber gasket. The manifold to carb gasket. The white, hard nylon gasket for the needle seat.

If you take a pic we can point out which ones go where. If for some strange reason there actually is no nozzle gasket, use a 201B o ring as I mentioned earlier.

EDIT: After re reading your post, the 3/16 thick washer you mentioned is likely for the nozzle.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Broken High Speed Nozzle...can I use it anyway?

HighTrim said:

Well there is most definately supposed to be a gasket there. The ones in the kit will be a thick, gasket type.

You will have a few leftover parts when you purchase a carb kit.

The gaskets important to you are the nozzle gasket mentioned. 4 packing washers for the low and high speed jets (2 each). The float chamber gasket. The manifold to carb gasket. The white, hard nylon gasket for the needle seat.

If you take a pic we can point out which ones go where. If for some strange reason there actually is no nozzle gasket, use a 201B o ring as I mentioned earlier.

EDIT: After re reading your post, the 3/16 thick washer you mentioned is likely for the nozzle.

Click to expand...

OK...here is a picture of my kit. I already installed 2 packing rings on the needles and the float. The oring at top left does not appear to have a home, brown gasket next to it for high speed nozzle? , 2 extra packing rings...should I use 3 on each needle?, thin metal clip...did not see this on old carb, nylon washers..don't know where they go, hard red washer don't know where it goes, 2 extra gaskets not needed, carb body to powerhead gasket already installed.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

I changed the title of this thread to keep all my questions on one running thread. Hopefully that is better than having multiple posts about the same motor.

That said, here is where I am at with it.

Compression 100/100
Spark - Yes on both

Work in Progress
Manuals - I have a parts manual and service manual is on order - should be in this week.

Carb rebuild - Obviously :facepalm:

Lower Unit - Badly corroded due to motor being on boat left in water. Purchased a completely rebuilt one off a 1958 Johnson 15 that previous owner had all seals replaced and pressure tested. $66 shipped.

Ignition - I am going to pull the flywheel to check things out even though I have spark. I went ahead and bought condenser, points and new plug wires since those are cheap. I did not buy new coils since they are $25 each. If they look suspect, I will go ahead and replace.

Fuel Tank - I need a reseal kit for it, just not sure which one I have as there are 2 types of pressure tanks. I'll post a picture later. I primed it when I bought the motor and it shot old gas out of the lines so it does pump. I went ahead bought new fuel line and will clean it up and may try it before I go to the trouble to install a new gasket/seal kit.

Prop - Looking for replacement 9x10 as the old one was badly corroded. Checking ebay and aomci ads

Paint Job - I am going to repaint the lower unit I purchased as it is a Johnson color. I would like to paint the exhaust tube also so that there is a clean break on the new paint vs old. I am using Duplicolor rattle can T155 Light Blue, which is a good match. At this point, I don't plan to paint the lower pan of the motor or the steering tube as I don't want to disassemble the whole thing. I have never done this before, so I am flying by the seat of my pants and total disassembly makes me nervous. However, I would like the complete leg (exhaust tube and lower unit to match). Can I remove just the exhaust tube without getting into significant disassembly?

Pictures below. You can see the corrosion at the bottom of the exhaust tube...the lower unit looked like this.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

HI jb. Here are some handy threads.

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Alrighty lets see if I can remember all the questions!

I dont see a gasket with the float valve and seat. It should have a white nylon washer under it. Do not worry about the black o ring, you dont need it. The second gasket in the pics looks like the gasket for the nozzle. That little metal clip works with the float valve and seat. The small end clips on the head of the needle, the large end onto the float arm. Then when the level drops in the float bowl, the arm of the float pulls the needle off the seat. They used to have issues sticking, this, along with the rubber tip, helps prevent this.

For the pressure tank rebuild kit, it is easy to determine which one you need. The difference is between the primer buttons. If it is black plastic or metal. That is all you need to know to order.

When painting, be sure to use self etching primer BEFORE the paint. The paint will not stick to aluminum unless you do. Also remember, keep it clean!

Also to note, here is a free parts manual.

Vintage Evinrude Johnson Outboard Parts & Diagrams - Catalog ITEM_2833

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Here is the retainer pic, different float but you get the idea.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

HighTrim said:

Alrighty lets see if I can remember all the questions!

I dont see a gasket with the float valve and seat. It should have a white nylon washer under it. Do not worry about the black o ring, you dont need it. The second gasket in the pics looks like the gasket for the nozzle. That little metal clip works with the float valve and seat. The small end clips on the head of the needle, the large end onto the float arm. Then when the level drops in the float bowl, the arm of the float pulls the needle off the seat. They used to have issues sticking, this, along with the rubber tip, helps prevent this.

For the pressure tank rebuild kit, it is easy to determine which one you need. The difference is between the primer buttons. If it is black plastic or metal. That is all you need to know to order.

When painting, be sure to use self etching primer BEFORE the paint. The paint will not stick to aluminum unless you do. Also remember, keep it clean!

Also to note, here is a free parts manual.

Vintage Evinrude Johnson Outboard Parts & Diagrams - Catalog ITEM_2833

Click to expand...

All clear except 3 follow up questions below. I put the old needle and seat back in with new white nylon washer below it. The new needle did not look the same, so I went back with the old. The new makes sense now with how the clip works.

1. Do I do anything with the 2 extra packing rings?
2. What about the nylon washers on the black piece of paper on my picture...where do they go?
3. Red washer labeled "extra washer"...where does it go?

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

I would use the new needle and seat. The needles will have a different shaped tip, but they are matched with the seat they come with, so dont mix them up. The new needles and seats are much superior to the old ones.

2 packing washers are fine per needle. Just keep the extras as spares.

Like I said earlier, the kit will contain many extra items, so they can use it on many models. Dont worry about the extra pieces, as long as you have what you need of course.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Great picture. Now I'm going back out to the garage to install the retainer clip.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

The nylon washers go after the packing, and the packing nut butts up against them. Keeps from messing up the packing when you tighten down the packing nuts.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Thanks everyone on the carb help. I have a new/used high speed nozzle in route and will put it back together right when it arrives.

Can I remove the exhaust tube without major disassembly? I would like to paint it and need to remove it to do a good job of cleaning, sanding, prep. I have a parts manual, service manual and lots of diagrams - but I cannot find specific instruction on exhaust tube removal.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

HighTrim said:

Alrighty lets see if I can remember all the questions!

I dont see a gasket with the float valve and seat. It should have a white nylon washer under it. Do not worry about the black o ring, you dont need it. The second gasket in the pics looks like the gasket for the nozzle. That little metal clip works with the float valve and seat. The small end clips on the head of the needle, the large end onto the float arm. Then when the level drops in the float bowl, the arm of the float pulls the needle off the seat. They used to have issues sticking, this, along with the rubber tip, helps prevent this.

Thank you for this info. I just rebuilt the carb for my JW-10 and did not know what to use on the nozzle. When I took it apart there was no gasket or seal on the end. I must have bought the same kit as I ended up with the same extra parts. Now I have to take it apart again and put the thick gasket in.

Click to expand...

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Here is a finished pic of painted lower unit clamps and prop. You can see pits from corrosion on clamps, but since this is just going to be a working motor I cleaned and painted as-is. Got the prop from an aomci member - wet sanded and painted. Clamps were shot peened by metal fab shop that we do business with. They drilled out a stuck screw, retapped and then shotpeened as a favor. Nice. Using Duplicolor self etching primer, then filling primer, paint and clear coat. Colors are Duplicolor BGM0539 Light Blue Metallic (replaced T155) and BGM0434 Olympic White (replaced T174). I am not sure how far I will take the painting, but the lower unit was left in water extended periods and looked bad from the area just above the clamps down. You can see example of that on one of my pics in Post #8

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Lots Of Questions

Yeah I just checked the JW10 parts manual and it does call for the nozzle gasket. If you ever lose the gasket or are in need of another, use a 201B oring. They work great.

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Here is the lower unit I picked up off ebay from a 1958 Johnson 15. I stripped it with aircraft stripper then scrubbed with grill cleaner (sounded like a good degreaser to me) and a green Scotchbrite pad. I think it turned out nice, but it has what I believe are some extra holes.

I think the hole in the frontal area is there for improved water pickup and the same with the extra holes on the port side of lower unit. Can someone tell me what is going on here?

Also...there is not a screw in the lower gearcase housing that connects the shift rod to the yoke (think it is yoke?). There was one in the original LU. Did OMC change that in 1958 vs 1957 or is that a difference in Johnson and Evinrude shift rod connection design?

ps...sorry about the upside down text in photo 1. It looks right in photoshop, but comes up this way.