[alderman]

I have found a old starcraft aluminum deep V 14' fishing boat. The hull is sound but the inside and outside needs some paint. Any ideas on what type of paint and how best applied, also what prep. work needs to be done. The seats are wood, the front two look to have been replaced, maybe with redwood. What is the best type wood to use? Anyone tried the man made products yet? Will the same type wood also work for the transom?Thanks in advance

[mellowyellow]

as for paint, any lose/flaking paint needs to beremoved. any bare spots need a zinc-chromate primer.many top-coat choices avail. once it's sealed.be careful, some marine paints contain copperand it will react with the aluminum.a good all around product I like is called "gluvit".even helps seal leaks.good luck,M.Y.

[imported_John_S]

I have a 60's 14' Starcraft, but its a modified V, wouldn't say it is a deepV. It is a light green color. The original seats did have a redish color to them, but I don't believe it is redwood. My front and rear seats are still original, but have been primed and painted with oil based white enamel, a number of years ago. Same wood is found on each side of the steering console, and in the bow. The middle driver seat, which is part of a hatch, had split many years ago, and was changed to plywood. The transom wood, I believe is plywood, but havent had an issue where I needed to remove the aluminum around it, to know for sure. Boat has held up well over the many years. Never had any rivet leaks. The original flooring has finally bitten the dust, and will be a winter project for me. Will convert the old steel cable steering to Teleflex, as well.

[alderman]

Thanks for the tips guys, this boat is just a open fishing boat with three wood seats, I think this boat is from the 60's also. Just finished filling with water got one stinking rivet that drips. O well guess I bought a junker. Thanks again

[DJ]

One leaking rivet does not make a junker.Here is the aluminum painting process.1. Sand entire boat with 120 grit wet sandpaper.2. Wash entire boat with 50/50 solution of vinegar and water.3. Apply one coat (thin) of zinc chromate paint.4. Wet sand with 120 (very lightly).5. Apply one coat "Metalprep" primer. 6. Wet sand with 120 grit.7. Apply finish coat of one part epoxy paint. I used Interlux "Brightside" one part epoxy-white.8. Wet sand with 220 grit wet sand paper.9. Apply final coat of "Brightside" one part epoxy paint.Hints: 1. Use only the thinners approved by the paint manufacturer.2. Use very high quality brushes.3. You will need one quart zinc chromate, one quart metalprep, two quarts final coat-Brightside.I brushed mine. The Interlux paint flows out beautifully. You have to get very close to tell it's brushed.All of the paints and thinners mentioned above are available at: www.westmarine.comYou could also use the products available from Pettit Paints. I used Interlux this time, because it was on sale.

[alderman]

DJ: I was only kidding about the leaky rivet, thanks for the vary detailed painting process. It is just what I was looking for. This site allways comes up with the best information. Thanks Again.Anyone have any suggestions for interior paint?

[DJ]

Alderman,I know you were. Use the same process on the interior. You may want to use a flat color on the inside-your choice. The key is the prep. (zinc chromate)With that leaking rivet, just make sure it's tight and apply a product called Gluv It on it and any others you suspect.Gluv It-available here:www.westmarine.comLet us know how it goes.

[alderman]

Thanks again DJ, just found this old hulk a couple of weeks ago in a outside storage lot where it had been stored for three years. Got the 1963 seaking running, trailer is again now road worthy. I want to at least get her in the water once this year, then get all the rust off the trailer and repaint the boat and trailer. Should keep me out of trouble most of the winter. Thanks again for all the help.