23 Steiger Craft rebuild

HI everyone,

My name is Tom and I am looking for some advice on the rebuild I am in the middle of. I am currently rebuilding a 1988, 23? Stieger Craft Block Island. When I bought the boat it was not intended as a project, but shame on me, some major issues slipped right past me. Boat is pictured below.





1988 was one of (if not the) the first years that Steiger built the Block Island Deep Vee models. For its age the boat was in very nice condition. Appeared sound, clean and well kept. The owner had frozen the head on his Yamaha OX66 250 at the beginning of the season and decided to sell the boat. I got it without the motor for a reasonable price (for a boat that was otherwise good to go).

What I ultimately found was that the boat had already had the deck out once, and as a result the last owner took some drastic, horrific and scary methods to get rid of rot in the stringers/bulkheads and did a shotty job of the sole replacement. The result was a boat with inadequate, hacked up stringers and bulkheads with endless rot problems in the original structure. I?ve now removed all of it and besides a ton of grinding, I?m left with planning how to put it all back in. Some pictures below of what I ran into:

Below is one from after all the foam was removed from both sides looking back toward the tank. Its amazing to see how much of the stringers were just cut out and left to rot.


Forward of the tank just behind the helm. The last owner put blue foam like you?d find around foundations under the sole. Without it the rotted deck probably would have collapsed by now.


There?s a lot more which I have been chronicling on another website, but wasn?t sure if I could post a link to it here so I didn?t. Below is a picture of where I?m at now.

Looking aft


Looking forward


I have some questions now for everyone here regarding how to put it all back together. I?ll start that in the next post.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

This boat was originally laid out with a sparse layout of ? plywood stringers an bulkheads arranged into a grid. There are no full length solid stringers and the fuel tank area looked really under framed. Steiger does something different now with a solid fiberglass grid, but I?ve decided to look at various ways I can do this.

First of all, I don?t think I can bring myself to put wood back in the boat. I?m investigating using Baltek PXc 24 for the transom and bulkheads. I?d really appreciate input from anyone here who has used it for these applications before too. I can get it locally (as opposed to Coosa).

Second, the 3/4 inch stringers just don?t sit well with me. I?d be much more comfortable with foam core, fiberglass types. Not being sure how to approach it I got Dave Gerrs book (Elements of Boat Strength). I?m sure many of you are aware of it. He nicely outlines a process for determining what is necessary based on the size and purpose of the boat. I liked the approach and put together an initial concept based on it. I?d love feedback from anyone here who has actually implemented this Gerr-type design in their boats. It does venture away from where Steiger has gone now, but I think it will actually provide a more robust result with more functional under floor access and ventilation.

The first diagram I wanted to show was what Steiger originally had in the boat.


You can see the plywood stringer/bulkhead configuration. The fuel tank is only 84 gallons and sat right against the hull. All the plywood came tight up to the bottom of the cockpit sole. A first look led me to believe this thing was really under-framed. I haven?t ruled out going back in with this config, but I?m definitely leaning away from it.

So after looking at the problem, I ran through Dave Gerr?s process of calculating this and that. The image below is what I came up with.



It has a combination of what he calls engine bed stringers (orange) and non-engine bed stringers (blue). The engine bed stringers are of course intended for inboard design, but the dimensioning of them can be applied to the outboard boat. The non-engine bed stringers are much smaller, but higher in quantity. The fiberglass layup required for the small stringers is far less than the engine bed variants as well. Both types use non-structural foam cores. In this configuration all the stringers can run from the transom forward without interruption. Thats much better than what I had

In the cross-section views you can get a better idea of what Im doing at the three positions I highlighted.

At the transom I plan to bring the first inboard stringer either side of the keel up to the height of the engine bed stringers for additional transom support. Also, I don?t plan on tying them flush into the first bulkhead forward of them, rather, angle them in like the knees .

At the fuel tank area I was still stuck with the size of the tank preventing the installation of properly located bulkheads. As an alternative, Gerr suggests ring frames. The ring frame is a transverse member that is the same height and width as the engine bed stringers. Unfortunately, I cannot accommodate the height required so I made them the height of the non-engine bed stringers and tightened up the spacing between the two. I?m still thinking about how to handle this particular area though. Below is a close up of that cross-section.



Additionally, I plan to raise the floor 1.5 inches at the sides and add an inch of camber to the whole thing. I would also push the scuppers outboard to the transom corners as opposed to the inboard configuration the boat has now. I?m thinking the tops of the bulkheads will support the sole and have the camber in them. In the area over the fuel tank I will add additional deck supports. I may decide I need them in-between each bulkhead for additional stiffness as well. All I know is that the old deck sole was pretty springy even though it was 3/4 ply.

Anyway, it?s a start. Input and suggestions are more than welcome. I?m especially wondering if there are other methods to calculate the scantlings for building stringers and bulkheads that I should look into. Gerr?s implementation here looks to be a little overdone.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

I don't have any answers to your questions,...But I'm looking forward to following along,...

Looks like it will be a great fishing platform when done,...

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

Hey man, very nice boat to restore. Are you planning on checking the pilot house forward for stringer damage? Might as well why you have it done this far.

Just my opinion, but the reason the original stringers and decking went bad was probably from poor manufacture practice and poor maintenance and upkeep from the previous owner. The previous owner definately did a hack job below the deck. Looks like he cut bulkheads out and never replaced them.

Again, just my opinion, but I think the layout Steiger had was fine. I like wood stringers because you know they are strong if done correctly. I have never liked 3/4 inch stringers and would probably go back in with doubled up marine ply 1 1/2 total for the stringers and 3/4 inch decking. It allows you to roll over the edges giving a better bond when you apply glass to the stringers . Having an 1 1/2 to work with also will give you a better surface to bond the deck to when installing.

You have the advantage because you are not a manufacturer looking for profit or under time restraints so things can be done properly and not rushed. Steigers were very good hulls and well respected even to this day, especially in the colder north climates.

I look forward to the project. Post the link to your other thread/site. Good luck going forward. Budd

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

Really like the boat and the drawings are neat, so I'm subscribing to follow along....

It's good that you are organized and like to plan things out... That will help....

I am not an engineer, nor am I a pro at this.... I've just hung out here for awhile and watched a bunch of us hobbyist try and put these rigs back together.... Nor have I read Dave Gerrs book (but I think I might)....

With all that said, and with all respect to Mr. Gerrs, I am sure those little midget stringers will help, but I'm not sure they are absolutely necessary... Sort of in line with what CC254 said, restoring these boats is a very expensive and very time consuming labor of love. We don't want to cut corners, but you also don't want to create more work for yourself...

I guess what I am saying is most of us on here are from the school of keep it simple and don't change things unless you have to....
Your boat was plenty strong (it never fall apart) with the original stringer/bulkhead layout....The problem was the materials used and the lack of maintenance.... Properly encased wood stringers will last longer than you care to own the boat if you do it right and care for your boat... It will be a lot more cost effective than engineered stringers...

Hope this helps,

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

I'm just replying to subscribe...sorry, no expertise here, but that's a gorgeous boat, and those hulls are very well regarded among watermen in the northeast.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

It's funny, but everyone I ask about this seems to have similar responses. Just do it in plywood, and take the time to make sure it's done right. I'm starting to think now I might have to follow that advice. That's not to say I won't modify something to make it my own in the end... That wouldn't be any fun.

I really tend to agree with what CC245 said about the 3/4 inch stringers. Something about that original install just didn't "feel" right. I will definately look into the 1-1/2" alternative. Especially since that will allow me to keep the stringers shorter (in height) since increased airfow under the deck sole is something I'm very interested in. I'd like to keep the bulkheads as the only part of the structure that interfaces with the sole.

Also, I did check the area forward of the pilot house and it is solid and dry as a bone.

Here is the link to the original rebuild thread. I found a lot in there.

ClassicMako Owners Club, Inc. - Non-Mako: 1988 23ft Steiger Craft

Thanks again for the input.

Tom

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

merch said:

I really tend to agree with what CC245 said about the 3/4 inch stringers. Something about that original install just didn't "feel" right. I will definately look into the 1-1/2" alternative. Especially since that will allow me to keep the stringers shorter (in height) since increased airfow under the deck sole is something I'm very interested in. I'd like to keep the bulkheads as the only part of the structure that interfaces with the sole.

Click to expand...

An alternative is what Friscoboater Jay is talking about which involves adding 1x1 cleats to the top edge of the 3/4" stringer to increase the area where decking attaches. Adding them after glassing separates the cleats from the stringer to minimize spread of moisture if it should get through the deck. I'm seriously considering that on my own rebuild.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

GWPSR said:

An alternative is what Friscoboater Jay is talking about which involves adding 1x1 cleats to the top edge of the 3/4" stringer to increase the area where decking attaches. Adding them after glassing separates the cleats from the stringer to minimize spread of moisture if it should get through the deck. I'm seriously considering that on my own rebuild.

Click to expand...

Just took a look at your thread. WOW! Good luck. it's comforting to know others are in the same "boat" as me.

Tom

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

The guys over on classicmako.com are top knotch guys as well, good group of guys. They definately have a ton of projects you can look through with similar self bailing offshore boats.

No taking away from the guys here, I think keeping both threads going will only benifit youin the long run. I would be designing a couple in deck live wells in that baby for bait.Maybe even some stern storage or above deck livewells. Now get to grinding that hull!

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

merch said:

Just took a look at your thread. WOW! Good luck. it's comforting to know others are in the same "boat" as me.

Tom

Click to expand...

Mine's not a "boat" til it floats again. Til then, it's a big sandbox for me to play in

Could I ask what CAD package you use? Your drawings are great.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

GWPSR said:

Could I ask what CAD package you use? Your drawings are great.

Click to expand...

Thanks but it's not CAD. I am very proficient with Powerpoint. ;-)

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

chriscraft254 said:

No taking away from the guys here, I think keeping both threads going will only benifit youin the long run. I would be designing a couple in deck live wells in that baby for bait.Maybe even some stern storage or above deck livewells. Now get to grinding that hull!

Click to expand...

If you guys have interest, I will keep my progress updated here as well.

I do have lots of thoughts for the in-deck storage/boxes too. The one thing that's always driven me nuts about the steigers, parkers, etc. is the lack of floor storage.

And as for grinding, I'm taking tomorrow and friday off for just that purpose. I'll feel a lot better once I get through that step.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

merch said:

Thanks but it's not CAD. I am very proficient with Powerpoint. ;-)

Click to expand...

Holy crap!

//bows down

:lol:

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

WOW... I just have to chime in here. PLEASE PLEASE keep us updated here. This is a great forum for boat restorations and we are always looking for great builders to join us here. Your plan is very solid, but I would just stick to a ply wood contraction, and just seal the stringers perfectly. It is very easy to over think a rebuild (been there) and spend way too much money on a project. Take a look at my sea ray thread and you will se that you can build a strong boat with 3/4 ply.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

It?s not only been a while since an update, but it?s been a while since I had some time to get back at it. I did have to stop to take time to close off and insulate the enclosure for the cold months. But mostly I think I was avoiding the delightful task of grinding down the hull in preparation for the new stuff. The grinding is most definitely one of the worst jobs I?ve ever had to do. I was definitely in denial about this part.

I haven?t showed you guys my enclosure yet. I built a frame around the aft 2/3?s of the boat, tarped and started working. The rain and cold proved that I needed to do a little more, so I added a tarp over the t-top and boarded and insulated the area under the forward end of the boat. Here are a few pictures of the worksite. Please not all the other toys in the backyard are all in working order. The blue boat is my father?s 25ft Acadia, the shiney silver thing is his 25ft Airstream and the little whaler is mine. There?s other things back there as well, but I?d need the wide angle lens to get it all in one shot. ;-) We like our toys in this family.







It?s worked out pretty well. The only issue I have now is evaporative moisture from the ground collecting on the inside of the roof if there is any snow on it. If I keep the snow clear it should be OK.

As for the grinding, I started on Thursday this week. I spent most of that day getting to know my tooling and different grinding/sanding discs. I?m using a 4.5? and 7? grinders. Just a quick thought, I have read on a few of these rebuild sites that guys have tackled similar jobs with nothing but a 4.5?. My hat?s off to you guys since I can?t imagine going at this job with only that. I actually think a 9? would be great as well, but to find one that turns up any kind of real RPM?s it would take more than the 150? of power cord on a 15amp circuit to drive it. The 7? has enough trouble as it is. I am actually considering dragging the 10kW generator down there to kick this thing into overdrive.



I played around with a bunch of different styles/grits of discs. By far the best for just tearing away at thick layers of tabbing and gelcoat are the 16 & 24 grit ZEC discs I ordered. They last quite a while and get through stuff pretty quick.

ZEC grinding wheels


They definitely come up short when it comes to finessing through the final layers of roving/mat down to the hull. I got carried away in a couple spots but I think I got the hang of it now. For final smoothing down I?ve been using 24 & 36 grit sanding discs. They gum up pretty quick, but you can clean them a couple times before they?re dead.

And of course this wouldn?t be a grinding story if I didn?t comment on the dust? Holy crap? I have to clean the filter on the vacuum every few minutes. This stuff is awful. And there?s so much of it! I?ve filled a garbage bag with the stuff that must weigh 30-40lbs so far. And that's only the stuff that?s settled in the bottom of the hull. Everything under that tent is covered in white.

Vacuum filter begging for mercy

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

And finally progress. It doesn’t really feel like it, but after today and probably about 8 hrs total I am almost all the way up the port side. Almost… These pics are from yesterday. I’m a little further along now.







And the other thing. Gelcoat is mercelous. The area near the stern not only has about 5 extra layers of uneven tabbing from the fish box and transom interface, but it had about 3/16” of gel coat. That 4.5”, 16 grit ZEC disk was about the only thing that survived this chore. I haven’t finished grinding down the glass back there, but I did myself a favor and did all the gel coat in one shot.

Before


After


And one more from today. I didn’t have the energy to vacuum before I quit. I’m moving now.

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

WOW,.............

That looks like a lot of work,..........................

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

Nice job merch, she's a beauty!!!:encouragement:

Re: 23 Steiger Craft rebuild

Great work. Thanks for taking the time to document your work for us.