Regulator testing req.

I swopped out the rectifier on my 1990 60hp johnson for a regulator from a 2000 60hp evinrude. The reason being is that it was concluded that the rectifier r was charging the battery too high and it was this high charge that blew the internals on all my gauges (approx 16v)
Now i've hooked up the regulator and am still not getting a charge, what do i need to test to check that the regulator is working ok or not?
if that proves unsuccessful i will then move on and test the stator.
All connections have been checked and are clean and tight all the way from the battery to the regulator.

Re: Regulator testing req.

16V is not enough to blow "all my gauges". The voltage must have been considerably higher. You might have lost
the battery connection during running.

What regulator do you use? OEM, CDI, Sierra, Mallory? What have you done with the regulator's purple wire? As
far as I know, the purple wire (12V from key switch) is not provided in the 1990 60hp model's harness, but ends in the remote control's big red connector.

Did you remove the connection between the gray and gray/yellow lead? Now it's the regulator feeding the tach signal,
the tach signal isn't derived from the stator (yellow/gray lead) anymore.

Is your electrical mounting plate prepared for a big brick like the regulator? The regulator needs a good ground connection via the mountig screws.

This is what I have done on my 1989 60hp TL. The Sierra and Mallory regulators don't have/need the purple wire.




For testing the stator disconnect the stator's yellow and yellow/gray leads. The stator winding should have about 1 Ohms. You should have no continuity between either lead and engine ground.

Start the engine and measure the AC voltage. Above 1500 rpm you must read more than 12V (maybe 30V or so) in order to charge a battery.

The next step is to connect a load to the stator, I suggest the high beam part of an old H4 lamp (55W). The
lamp should light brightly at middle/high rpm.

Re: Regulator testing req.

If your motor was charging at 16 volts, it was working properly. That is what unregulated systems do, and it does not "blow all the guages". There are thousands of them running around out there and nobody notices till they put a voltmeter on it and get all alarmed. Furthermore, if it was charging at 16V, the stator is working fine. Now if it is going much over 16V, it could be a battery connection problem.

BTW, you didn't disconnect the battery while it was running did you? That will spike the voltage big time.

Re: Regulator testing req.

It's an OEM regulator and I can't honestly say how the wiring is at the moment , I'll check that out based on WernerF's info and pic above and will post back.

Battery was always well connected and never touched whilst motor was running.

Thanks Guys.

Re: Regulator testing req.

Well wiring looked good as per wernerf pics so I'll cleaned the connections and grd and it did the trick. Dumb***** I know.

Also there was a purple wire in the harness so maybe po changed it at some stage.

Anyway thanks guys for posting. Can one of you tell me how the regulator charges now not the stator?

Re: Regulator testing req.

fishfeatures said:

Can one of you tell me how the regulator charges now not the stator?

Click to expand...

The stator still generates the electricity then the regulator / rectifier converts it from AC to DC and regulates the voltage down to appropriate charging levels for your battery.