Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

OK I saw an episode of American restorations and found a very interesting fact and it has been tryed but not proven. I want to solder my trigger wires that have good insulation 3/4th,s of the length of the leads, and not sure about the wire corrosion of the copper. I hear alot of posts saying the copper won,t accept solder. The fact I learned and tryed on a corroded penny worked wonders. Try this Put Ketchup on the corroded penny and within minutes it will look like new. If I was to use this technique on the wires and then use a solvent to clean away the ketchup, then use paste it should solder as a new peice of copper right? I had to form this in a question to get this info out there for those trying to save an old part and alot of $$$ Cha Ching. I have yet to do this and will post before and after photos of the job if successfull I would recommend it as a cure for some componants of a decent condition other than corroded to the point of no return. Does anyone have knowledge of this not being true? This will also make your corroded water tube look like brand new. I used to be a steel wool guy when it came to soldering but those days are over.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

Copper wires solder just fine. It's the vinegar [acetic acid] in the ketchup that cleans the wires. Whenever I have to solder wires, I clean them with very fine sandpaper [600 grit wetpruf auto paper], then just wipe them clean with a dry cloth. Rubbing alcohol afterward removes any oils from the wire. I use resin core solder made for electrical circuits to solder. Braided wires are very carefully twisted together before soldering....and I heat the copper until the core paste runs onto it, followed shortly after by the solder. Before I twist the wires together, I slip the correct length of heat shrink over one wire length, ready to pull over the joint when done. I find a heat gun works best for the heat shrink as compared to a flame.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

That was a very good trick. But you are dealing with stainless steel wire, just use butt connectors. You can also remove the metal core of a butt connector, and slide a piece shrink tube over the wire, use the core to crimp, then shrink the tube over the splice.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

Great suggestions

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

woody66912 said:

That was a very good trick. But you are dealing with stainless steel wire, just use butt connectors. You can also remove the metal core of a butt connector, and slide a piece shrink tube over the wire, use the core to crimp, then shrink the tube over the splice.

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Or you could just use Duraseal butt connectors.You heat them up as well and they shrink to the wire.There is also glue in them to self seal when heated.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

I cleaned em up and soldered wire to wire then soldered new ring connectors on and taped em all up, then use a small zip tie to hold the black tape from coming undone. Should work fine thanks everyone

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

The tape is not a perfect seal. Heat shrink tube or connectors are.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

I realize this but not so sure at present if the trigger is 100%. I still need to water test the engine after replacing the 2 lower endcap seals and was having intermintent firing before taking it back apart and also swaping the crank and reeds. I can shrink seal them later if it shows good under power.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

They do make a soldering flux that IS highly-activated and will help solder most any type wire. It is a strong corrosive paste acid flux and as heat is applied it will clean the metals allowing a quality soldering connection. HOWEVER, you have to take some alcohol and an acid brush and clean the remaining flux from the entire connection or in a year or two that remaining acid will corrode that connection as well. Follow up your soldered connection with some heat-shrink tubing to isolate any contact to other wires or ground. If you are soldering copper wires, most any flux-core solder will suffice (60/40, 62/38, 63/37). But stainless steel and other coated wiring will need a harsher flux paste to clean the metal to allow solder to flow properly. Also make sure you use some type of heat-sink to keep solder from wicking up under the wire insulation. De-Wicking tweezers are great for that but if you don’t have them try using a simple alligator-clip at the very edge of the wire to insulation to keep solder from flowing under the insulation. You will never be able to clean the residues from under the wire insulation. Using highly activated acid paste flux I was able to solder brass parts to steel parts. It will work. Just make absolutely sure you clean all residues from your newly soldered connections before the heat shrink in used… Solder connections beat crimp type connections unless you manage to get a four point crimping tool that crimps the connection from four points 90 degree apart. Those crimping connections are extremely good and will last for a very long time.

Re: Mercury 70 trigger soldering of trigger wires

View attachment 177511View attachment 177512View attachment 177513Thanks and yes I used the flux type roll solder I got from radio shack and after cleaning the wires dipped them in the container of paste flux I use for soldering plumbing fittings and it turned out nicely. I will get heat shrink after testing the trigger operation on the water. If the triggers no good I don,t want to waste any more money and time on it. I,ll have to replace it at that point. Replacement coils wire and plug wires due in the mail tonight.