Pulling the plug

matt167 · Nov 20, 2012

My '64 650 is ready for removal except the electrical plug. Can't find the info in my manual ( Factory manual ). I tried to pull it, but It won't budge. How do I pull the electrical plug?

oldman570 · Nov 20, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

You can try working some WD 40 in the rubber where they go together and see if it helps, just be sure the battery is disconected. They can be quite hard to pull off if they have been together for sometime. JMO
Oldman570

GA_Boater · Nov 20, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Your motor is a couple of years older than mine and I'm assuming it has the side connector. It was tough to remove until I removed the hook or harness support. Then I started wiggling front to back and up and down until it finally started to move. Kept up the wiggle action until it came off. In my case was hard to get back on too, but I didn't try any lube. Vaseline might work to help soften the rubber and ease re-assembly.

matt167 · Nov 20, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Well, pretty sure this 1 has been plugged in since 1964. As long as there are no fasteners. That was all I was afraid of. I was thinking removing the wire 'guide' would be a good idea. It is a side plug. Thanks

Texasmark · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

When you get it off you will see why it was so hard to remove......lotta pins! Nowadays, they run the high current (large pins on that) directly from the battery to the engine ground and starter solenoid input which is also the voltage distribution point. The electrical connector is much smaller and only 8 small pins.

Mark

matt167 · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

That would explain it.. When I get it pulled, is it safe to lift it from the chrome rail that runs around the base of the powerhead? Or how else should I lift it?.. I have a 1.5 ton engine crane, so lifting is no issue

matt167 · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Got the plug pulled. Surprisingly it was not that stuck as I thought it would be

GA_Boater · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

matt167 said:
That would explain it.. When I get it pulled, is it safe to lift it from the chrome rail that runs around the base of the powerhead? Or how else should I lift it?.. I have a 1.5 ton engine crane, so lifting is no issue

I don;t think the rails are good place to hook to. They might look sturdy but the lower cover with the rails is more of a pan to cover the lower motor section. A lift ring is far safer and cheap. You can find a new flywheel puller/ lift ring combo for less than $49 including shipping on eBay.

matt167 · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

That's what I was thinking after looking at them. Is the 4 bolts in the top from underneath the only thing holding the top/ recoil cover on?

This would be the right tool? Outboard Mercury, Mariner, Yahama, Force - Lifting Ring / Eye Tool | eBay

GA_Boater · Nov 21, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

For another $10, you get the whole set-up, lift ring and flywheel puller. Trust me, you will need to pull the flywheel sometime.

oldman570 · Nov 22, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

The lifting ring/flywheel puller is the only safe way to lift the motor, as damage can be done by lifting it otherwise. The top should have latches that hold the top onto the motor and the bolts should not have to be removed to lift the motor with a ring. A motor lift should lift the motor with no trouble and can be rented at some auto supply stores if you do not have one. JMO
Oldman570

matt167 · Nov 22, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

I have a 1.5 ton engine crane. The cylinder is getting weak but it still has the guts to lift a complete iron headded Ford 460, so it should lift it fine. I'll look for the latch. My manual is a factory manual but it has no full index and it has been rebound with a plastic binder, so I'm not sure if it's just missing or not.

matt167 · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Ok, took some time getting to HF to buy wheels for my stand, but the stand is now rolling.. Also have the lift ring/ flywheel puller from Heartland products.. Looked again in the engine with a flashlight. There is no latch. To remove the top, the choke solenoid has to be removed, along with 1 bolt from the starter, and then there are the bolts in the back side of the motor. This sound right.. Just making sure I'm doing it right so stuff doesn't break

I also figured out my manual only goes to '63, so the exterior parts are different ( mechanical ) I know are the same

GA_Boater · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Mat - Are you talking about removing the three piece engine cover? Or the pull start assembly, if you have one? Can you put a pic of what you need to remove. Your choke solenoid comment is confusing me, but a pic would help a lot.

matt167 · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

The pull start/ top cover. Just need to get it off so I can put the lift ring in the flywheel.

Few pics as requested

As you can see, the choke solenoid is attached to the top/ recoil cover with 2 screws.

The starter also looks like it is attached with 1 bolt into the top cover but I didn't get a pic of that

I just don't want to pull the wrong thing and have something come out of alignment, or not be prepared for extra falling parts..

GA_Boater · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

I looked in my manual but it doen;t have anything about the recoil starter 650. In the 200 section iy says to remove three nuts, one rear and two in the front to remove the cowl. I have no idea if your 650 is set up that way. That is the only cowl remal steps I see. No much help, sorry.

matt167 · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

I found this Ebay ad of a 650 top cowl with the recoil. Mercury Top Cowl Cowling Cover 1964 65 HP 4 Cyl 650 2114 | eBay . Helps me a little because I can see what's there and what's not/ what to look for with the pic of the underside.. I don't think recoil start 650's were very popular. From what I can reference, they were only made '65-'66.

I definitely need a better manual. Looking more thru the 1 I have, certainly seems to be missing pages, but being that the pages are not numerically ordered outside of the sections I can't tell. I only have parts breakdowns for the 6cyls, and my motor needs a little more work than I thought. I figured ignition was the problem, but throttle blades on the carbs only move a tiny bit, with the distributor at full advance, so I figure it's had some tinkering done to it.

GA_Boater · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

It looks like on the eBay cowl that four nuts/studs hold it on. On the throttle opening - my 500 the grease in distributor body was like lard and I had the same problem. Cleaned it up and fresh grease fixed that.

matt167 · Dec 2, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Yep, looks like 4 nuts/ studs to me too. If I found it earlier, I would have went out with a printed pic and compared, but no power to the boat house yet and flashlights are only just so bright..

Good to know about the throttle linkage. I was kind of worried when I noticed that. This motors going to need gone thru fully as it hasn't ran in more than 12 years/ parked non running.. Originally I thought that I could change the water pump, do a few things to get it running and then adjust quirks out. I think I should do crank seals, rebuild carbs/ pumps and fuel hoses. Prime and paint going along with the rebuild.

matt167 · Dec 3, 2012

Re: Pulling the plug

Got the top off. The 4 studs, and 1 ground/ 1 power wire for the choke solenoid. The choke solenoid doesn't need to come off, the center piston slides right out, so there is no need to disconnect anything really.. Lift ring screwed right into the flywheel and it's ready for pulling

Pulling the plug

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