Installing new SL3 controls

Hello All
I'm in the process of installing new SL3 controls so that I can have some throttle control during cold start ups.
I believe I have 33C cables and so I'm using the recommended holes on the levers. Now the real problem. Using the mercruser manual, I'm not making any progress in getting the shift cable to travel the distance to shift the drive from forward to reverse and back. My shift cable does not have the brass barrel shone in the manual, but instead i have a plastic holding connection. The only way I have been able to get the shift travel range is to move Stud (B) from its bottom location. It seems that the amount of travel to shift the drive from forward to reverse required more travel than me cable is providing. I know I'm missing something.

I haven't even gotten to the cutout switch adjustment. But from what I can see at this point, the roller is not staying in the neutral position.
thanks for any help
Cheers Gary

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

garyplotner said:

Hello All
I'm in the process of installing new SL3 controls so that I can have some throttle control during cold start ups.
I believe I have 33C cables and so I'm using the recommended holes on the levers. Now the real problem. Using the mercruser manual, I'm not making any progress in getting the shift cable to travel the distance to shift the drive from forward to reverse and back. My shift cable does not have the brass barrel shone in the manual, but instead i have a plastic holding connection. The only way I have been able to get the shift travel range is to move Stud (B) from its bottom location. It seems that the amount of travel to shift the drive from forward to reverse required more travel than me cable is providing. I know I'm missing something.

I haven't even gotten to the cutout switch adjustment. But from what I can see at this point, the roller is not staying in the neutral position.
thanks for any help
Cheers Gary

Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard Gary,... Got any pictures,..??

Are ya talkin' 'bout the controller end, or the motor end of the cable,..??

Seein's it's a Merc,... What motor, drive, 'n serial numbers,..??

I'll move this to the Merc I/O forum,...

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

Thanks for your help I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
A little review. the engine is a 1986-7 Mercruser 4 cylinder 190hp, serial number is O-B486052. with an Alpha 1 drive A668526. about 750 hours.

The controller end is one concern that I have in that I don't seem to have many options for the length of the drive lever. Only one. So that"s one thing. The other is at the engine connections. As luck would have it, my configuration is not like the one you see in the original service manual. So that is throwing me off a little bit also.

The question that I don't have an answer to is how much travel is required of the "drive cable" to shift the drive from reverse to forward and back. It it 2.5 inches or 3" or what?

Right now I seem to be at the end of adjustments available to me and just barley able to get the prop to lock in either in forward or reverse when turning it by hand.

Then I'll get to the cut-out switch.
Thanks again

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

Hello Again
I believe I have attached a photo of the engine bracket that supports the cut-out switch. In reviewing the photo you can see upper shift cable and lower cables with the shifter in neutral. I have determined that the control unit is set for maximum travel. thanks again for your help.

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

Hello
I just finished taking some measurements hoping that this may help in diagnosing my shifting problem. T
he first set of measurements refer to the upper shifting cable from the SL3 control unit. In neutral, the distance form the fixed point to the clevis point is 7-3/8 " In forward the distances is 6" from the fixed pivot point to the clevis point and in reverse the measurement is 8 1/2 "

The lower cable measurements in neutral are 7 3/16" in neutral. In forward, the measurement is 6 1/4 " again from the fixed pivot point/brass barrel on the plastic cut-out plate to the adjustable stud connection. In reverse the measurement is 8"
I know relationship of these numbers mean something, but not know what they should be is frustrating.
Thanks for your help
Cheers Gary

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

Hello
I gaining information. On this alpha drive, the total travel needed to shift from forward to reverse is 1.5". 3/4' in each direction. What I have discovered is that to achieve the last 1/8 " travel to get into reverse is really stiff and I believe stressing the cut-out plate.I removed the cable and have been trying loosen it up. does anyone have any suggestions. I also start a new thread. Oh the total travel for the control cable is 2 3/4". should be plenty. Thanks

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

Ayuh,..... You have a 470, Alpha 1,...

Yer motor's manual is here,...

Yer drive's manual is here.....

The answers you need are in 1, or the other,...

I'm thinkin' in the Alpha 1 drive manual.... section 2-18...

Re: Installing new SL3 controls

garyplotner said:

Hello
I gaining information. On this alpha drive, the total travel needed to shift from forward to reverse is 1.5". 3/4' in each direction. What I have discovered is that to achieve the last 1/8 " travel to get into reverse is really stiff and I believe stressing the cut-out plate.I removed the cable and have been trying loosen it up. does anyone have any suggestions. I also start a new thread. Oh the total travel for the control cable is 2 3/4". should be plenty. Thanks

Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... No need for a new thread,... This seems to be all about the Beat lower shift cable you've got...

they wear, 'n get sticky,... Ya need a New 1,.... There ain't no Fixin' it...

The shift switch should Only work comin' Outa gear, In the water....

Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Hello All
Engine is a 1986-7 4 cylinder O-B 486052 with an Alpha drive. I've been in the process of installing an SL 3 throttle/shifting control unit and making some progress. But, i've discovered that to shift into reverse, the cable, is meeting a lot of resistance to travel the last 1/8' to lock in the reverse gear. I have to pull it by hand really hard to engage it. Any suggestions/ I'm thinking the PO never had this unit in reverse. Ever.
Cheers Gary

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Pull the outdrive and see if there is crud where the shift cable end is. The cable is pulled for reverse, if the cavity is full of crud it will/can make reverse not happen. If there is nothing there causing resistance, then the cable is probably NG and needs replacement.

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

garyplotner said:

Hello All
Engine is a 1986-7 4 cylinder O-B 486052 with an Alpha drive. I've been in the process of installing an SL 3 throttle/shifting control unit and making some progress. But, i've discovered that to shift into reverse, the cable, is meeting a lot of resistance to travel the last 1/8' to lock in the reverse gear. I have to pull it by hand really hard to engage it. Any suggestions/ I'm thinking the PO never had this unit in reverse. Ever.
Cheers Gary

Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... No need for a new thread,... This seems to be all about the Beat lower shift cable you've got...

they wear, 'n get sticky,... Ya need a New 1,.... There ain't no Fixin' it...

The shift switch should Only work comin' Outa gear, In the water....

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Re: Shift cable to drive unit is really stiff.

Well now for the rest of the story. After keeping my head in the sand for a day, I figured that if I can keep my Jaguar V12 running, I can do this.

So today I removed the lower unit, even drained the lube and replaced it. What I found was stuff. That's right stuff composed of a little corrosion, some kind of crease and a build up on the arm that rotates the shift lever. the slide also had a bunch of crud on the back end preventing it from it's full travel. Cleaned it all up, worked the slide and cable back and forth many times. I was getting greater travel by about an 1/8".

Now comes the tricky part. reassembly. The unit is not to heavy, just awkward. After three or four attempts I finally got the unit so slid onto the studs. Wow, I did it. Torqued down the nuts and figured, might as well test it out. By hand i was able to shift the gears from forward to reverse and lock the prop. Now I knew positively with out a doubt, that I have full movement/travel on that cable.

Reset the location of the brass barrel on the drive shift cable and relocated the adjustable clevis to the bottom of the slot and started playing with it. What I did, is bias the neutral setting toward reverse just a little bit, giving me a shorter distance for the cable to travel to engage the gears. After a few attempts the prop locks in forward and reverse using the shifter. Ant the magic roller stays centered.

Tomorrow I light it off and test the shifting and kill switch assembly. Wish me luck.
Cheers Gary