Restore Lund Fury

Can't seem to get the water out of the foam at rear of boat after removing old deck material. Had a fan on it for days. Can it be removed and replaced with something else, spray or block foam? Don't want to mold to start. I have a Lund Fury 16 ft. restoration project.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Welcome to iboats.

Ya, the only way to get that foam dry is to replace it, once it gets wet it is a giant spung and will jet get wet again so you need to pull the floor and then the foam whichj can be a real challenge.

I did mine a few years ago, out of town for the weekend, forgot to pull the plug and had biblical type rain for 2 days, the foam weighed sometig like 400lbs after I got it out, ah, the memories......

Being spray foam you have to dig it out, I used a small garden trowel, big butcher knife, really whatever you have laying around but it will be really stuck in there.

I chose not to replace mine, I river fish so the boat is kept on the trailer and I am rarely more than 200' from shore and have a 500 and 1100 bilge pump with and alarm so if anything ever soes go wrong I should be able to get to shore or back to the launch.

I have heard of guys using the foam board you get at Lowes/Home Depot and cutting it to shape.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Yep, remove that stuff with a garden shovel and replace it with the pink or blue rigid sheet foam insulation from Home Depot or Lowes.

You'll need to romove all of the wet foam, some of your foam may be kind of dry on the top but wet on the bottom... wet on the bottom needs to be removed too, it'll never dry out.

Post some pics of your boat, we like to see boats get torn apart and put back together again on this site.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Yes, please do post some pictures! Us Lund guys are few and far between on this site.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Thank you for all the great input! I have removed all the foam + am going to replace it w/ 2 part foam as I think is the best fit. A friend suggested that I fill each compartment w/ a clear plastic trash bag + put a board over the beams so as not to overfill each compartment. That would make shure that no moisture would get in. Also I am using a treated but kiln dried after plywood, foundation grade plywood 1/2 in. Should I use an epoxy to cover it. Would it be ok to just coat the beams or is it best to do the whole decking material.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

I agree that pour in foam would be better in this case. With an aluminum boat that will most likely be used primarily for fishing you want it to be as quiet as possible and not putting sounds through the bottom. At least that's my way of thinking.

Not sure of the ply you speak of or how it is treated. It is generally accepted that treated wood should not be used on aluminum boats because of chemical reaction between the treated wood and the aluminum. As to epoxy coating the plywood. My Lund was 35 years old when I replaced the wood in it because there was a large soft spot in the middle of the boat. In this boat the original wood was not epoxied and probably would have lasted much longer accept it was neglected and left outside uncovered and unused for four years.

Epoxy ads weight. If you were to look at any of the Lund brouchers you will see many models offered in two or more dress packages. Same hulls, more options. With the added options you will see that the loaded weight capacity goes down.

I know that it is also a general practice to epoxy in the wood on glass boats but there is a difference. In glass boats the wood was normally glassed in to the hull when built. You will not find that in aluminum constructed hulls as the decks are usually either screwed or riveted in.

I did not epoxy the wood in my Lund when I redid it and am now looking at purchasing second Lund that is in the same condition and will not be epoxying the wood on that one either. To me the expense to benifit just isn't there! If the replacement lasts as long as the original, well I'll most likely be dead by then.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Use epoxy resin to coat you plywood, 3 or 4 coats on all surfaces and edges. It sounds like your plywood is CCA treated plywood?

You should do a leak test on your boat after removing the foam and before you put any foam back in. If your boat is riveted, replace any leaking rivets. If you have any leaking seams apply Gluvit to your seams and rivets on the inside of the boat. Fill your boat with 3 or 4 inches of water with the garden hose to check for leaks, watch the outside/ bottom of your hull for any drips. Crank your trailer jack all the way down to check the front for leaks and crank the jack up to check the rear for leaks.

Be careful confining the foam while it is expanding, make sure you put several holes in the board you cover with so the foam can ooze out and relieve pressure. Expanding foam can create an amazing amount of pressure while it's expanding... like in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAIY0I5GGw4

Create a drainway down the keel of your boat by either blocking a strip off or cutting the foam out after it's poured for positive drainage of your bilge. Something like this:

Make sure your drain/limber holes are clear (red circles).

The garbage bags aren't necessary and will prevent the foam from adhering to your hull, you want the foam to stick to the hull to keep it in place.

If you'll make sure your hull is watertight with no leaks and keep your boat covered or garaged when not in use your foam will never saturate/waterlog.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Thanks for the info. I just finished cleaning + rinsing the hull after foam removal. Am about ready to foam, deck + carpet. Still having trouble downloading pics as it tells me the file has errors, possibly too large. Should I carpet deck compartments first + then fasten them to the rafters .

Re: Restore Lund Fury

Did you check your hull for leaks? Is yours a welded or riveted hull?

The next step is to seal your plywood decking with epoxy resin, 3 or 4 coats. It'll look like this with 4 coats:


Then wrap your deck pieces with carpet like this (this is the back/bottom side):


Then install them in your boat.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

I filled the hull up to the water line. No leaks The hull is riveted. It is a 1990 Lund Fury. Your pics are great. Do I need that many coats of epoxy and should I do each individual section so as to get the freashly cut sides+ do I do anything to holes that are drilled when securing to the ribs. I plan on using stainless screws + aluminum rivets. I have seen where some boats have a little drain in the center of their floor to let water run to the bilge under the floor. is that needed? Still trying to get pictures. Thanks

Re: Restore Lund Fury

You need at least 2 coats of epoxy minimum. Coat all sides and edges.

Screw and rivet holes don't really need anything.

Yes, you want to install the deck drain so water can drain off the deck and into the bilge. You can see mine circled in red in this pic:


Get a free Photobucket account to post your pics with, it's how I post mine.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

I think I figured out the picture problem.

Re: Restore Lund Fury

I think I fgured out the problem w/ my pictures.