Sunken E35ECSM

Damn, did not have time to check boat during 2 weeks and it had "sunk" enough so that there was water in the lower cylinder, over the wiring harness connector, key switch, solenoid, and starter connections. Well, turned the engine by hand, applied CRC all over and inside.

Cleaned the connections at solenoid which was the only place with more corrosion. Confirmed later that battery had still power, either the electric choke or starter did not operate however. I did not have tools to check electrics, but I would have get the outboard running again and will have to order parts before I can check them. Coils, CDI and flywheel were not under water. Any experience how likely I'll need a new starter, solenoid, and/or key switch?

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

For now, skip the electic start bits and just get the motor running. Drain the carb be removing the small hex bolt at the bottom front of the bowl. Flush through the fuel system with fresh fuel until no more water comes out of the carb bowl. It's messy work - NO SMOKING!!

Once the spilled fuel has been cleaned up and vapors have dissipated, remove the plugs, ground the wires to the block and rope the powerhead over until no more mist comes out the plugs. Now, unplug the electrical plug at the motor, unground the plug wires, dry and reinstall the spark plugs. Reinstall the drain in the carb. Prime it up with the fresh fuel and attempt to pull start it. If motor is not on boat, or if the boat is no longer in the water, use muffs or a bucket to assure proper cooling. If motor pops and spits but doesn't start, you may have to remove and dry the spark plugs again. Once you get the motor running, let it run - preferably in the water, under load. You want it to build up internal heat to get all moisture out of it. Run it for at least a half-hour... Motor will run fine with the plug disconnected.

Now you can work on the starting system. If the starter was under water, it likely has water in the bottom cap. I don't think they have a drain in them so I would recommend disassembly and proper dry out. The choke solenoid is pretty bullet-proof. Most you might have to do is pull the plunger out and blow out and residual water. If the starter solenoid is deemed bad, it's easy enough to replace.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

Yes, I will need to get it running or organize a tow to get the boat up or else it will be a long exercise paddling. I will return on weekend with a proper emergency rope and jump cables.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

The reason for the urgency to get it running is rust particularly in the rod and main bearings. The longer it sits the worse it will get to the point of making the engine an anchor. I hope it did not sink in salt water.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

Yes, I know that also. :/ The sea water in the Baltic Ocean here has a very low salt content, many mostly fresh water species are able to live in it. I hope it will survive this abuse also, I have already spent way too much time restoring it into operational condition.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

Ok, got time again to spend on the boat today. Acquired a suitable pull rope for emergencies and went to the boat armed with tools. First I was able to confirm that the starter works by jumping it. That was quite flashhy in the already darkening evening. Then drained carburetor, fuel seemed ok, and primed it again. Started pulling and no spark.
Meter confirmed that the key switch is shorted, so took off the ignition grounding and continued pulling with still no spark. Sprayed a lot CRC under the flywheel and everywhere and continued pulling exercises. After 20 minutes still without a spark. Then I decided to continue with the starter - Close the connection at the battery end !!!*OOPS!* Also the battery end is not good, but perhaps the lesser evil with a sealed battery!!!, it will get sparky and you still likely have fuely stuff around the engine block, and ensure that you have a good connection at the starter.
After cranking for maybe 10 minutes the engine came alive and ran happily for maybe 15minutes!!! And very suitable I had still a very oily mix, maybe over 5%, as the engine had not yet been used much after getting it again running after the winter seizure. *Sigh*
Time to take the boat home this weekend and see if I can make the key switch and solenoid operational again. Still no start or choke from it.

Now ... Where I could order (online, international delivery to Europe) an open-gap spark tester that would have an alligator clip for fixing it properly in place? Looking like a pencil that can be fixed in place with the clip and ignition wire mounted into its other end. I saw such in one Youtube video.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

Returned to the boat today, and this time the kill line in 3-pin connector between power pack and coils was shorting somewhere even with the wiring harness connector detached. About 600kOhm key switch in "on" and good connection in "off". Had to cut the wire to get the engine running. :/ I found out that the battery lead terminal had corroded off of the key switch. Now the switch and solenoid are now immersed in fresh water, maybe the could turn out to be operational after cleaning.
Question #1: The pin terminals should come out of the 3-pin connector somehow for rewiring the black/yellow ground lead, right? Or I could also put a connector there, then I could cut the kill line in case of problems ...
But ... I seem to have some issues now with the motor wiring harness which would not be that surprising as it has electrician's tape all over it already and a somewhat "patchy" look. Its connector seemed solid, so the only alternative seems to be to "patch it" more. It felt a bit too expensive at 136 USD to renew for this outboard.

Re: Sunken E35ECSM

Everything is is running order now, that is start and choke operate from the key. Survived this time with just going over, cleaning and metering most connections.