A couple more Dumb questions...

So, I'm still working on getting my first boat ship-shape

I recently had the boat out, running great, about 30-35 mph, on the return trip she started dying out, turned the key nothing....tried again, she fired up, ran a bit and died again...got towed in.

I started reading the forums, as I thought maybe I lost a ground on the ignition circuit, everything else elctronic worked.

So...I had new guages and switches, and decided I should install those instead of waiting for spring, then in my dumb-*** fashion...I started to remove all the dash board stuff, and left it hanging, then decided to make sure all the wires were connected tight on the starter assist solinoid....wiggled the shifter a bit....and the boat started to crank (didn't do it before)

I am thinking this is the overstroke switch, and the other one (can't think of the name) right near it, that kills the spark a bit while going into gear.

BTW...86 Searay Seville mid-cabin 21 foot...OMC cobra V6

I killed the outdrive due to lack of oil (never listen to someone in a store) I rebuilt that....which was a success!!

Got the engine in time and lined up....all ran great!!!

Does the ignition system issue sound like those switches?

The starter has some sort of safety wire going to the coil correct?

The boat was converted to electronic ignotion, but I can't figure out if it was done correctly, I read those switches need to be wired different for an Electronic ignition?

My last dumb question....

When the boat is on plane, I notice the steering is way better than when I idle along....while idling along, I feel like I am always correcting the boat, like a little steer left...then some right...back left...etc....is this normal? Or is the boat supposed to steer the same on plane or just idling along?

Oh...I also forgot to mention....in the Seloc manual as well as the Searay manual, both show a nuetral saftey switch at the control box, but I don't have anything electrical other than the trim adjustment at the control box.

Really...Thanks a million....I really appreciate all the help you guys provide, I hope one day, I am able to pay it forward.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

To see if the shift switch is causing your probem, just unplug the ESA to see if the problem goes away. Just realize that you will have a tough time to get it out of gear so do this somewhere where you can turn the engine off safely and reconnect it.

Your problem sounds more fuel related actually. What is the age/condition of your fuel? Have you replaced the spin on fuel filter and inspected its content?

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

You told me in another post to change that....I ordered the part number I found in the manual you supplied, but it was the wrong filter, the one on the boat is a larger one. And I was going to pull it off and at the least check it, but I didn't want to ruin it and not have a replacement.

What did happen, was the boat seemed to lose electrical power to the ignition coil/plugs, and died out. Thinking back to when I first got the boat, every once in a while nothing would happen when you turned the key to start...we were going under the assumption that the key cylinder was loose in the dash board, and because of that, the entire assembly was turning instead of actually turning to start...we tightened it up to the dash, and hadn't really noticed if that happened much more, although by the time we did that, we had the boat running good. Anyway...after it died, the first turn of the key did NOTHING--NADA---not even a click!! But...everything else electrical worked....I remember goofing around with the shifter a bit, turning the key off, and trying again....she started right up.

At this point, I thought the key cylinder might have gone bad...so since I had new guages and switches, I ordered a new key cylinder...then like I said, I had the dash pulled with wires hanging...checked the starter assist solinoid (I had done this before on the water when she first died...you know tried to be sure no cable or wire came loose) then jiggled the shifter back and forth and for some dumb reason checked to see if it cranked...and it did.

As far as fuel...that filter is on the list (and I know I really should do it now...)but I want to get it running so I can winterize it, hopefully a quick run around the river one last time before the snow flies...and then I will get everything winterized and set for spring.

I don't think that a fuel issue would stop the starter from at least clicking...thing is I feel like a really dummy because I did something to get it to crank, but without all the guages hooked up properly, I don't want to run it, so I am working on that, the other part is, I took out all the inline fuses for the switches, and moved to an actually fuse box. This seemed a bit confusing, as I ordered marine wire in the colors/guages per the wiring diagrams, and what I am taking out is not the same guage as the diagrams...often thinner guage.

From posts I read, it appears if you jiggle the shifter it solves the issue..albeit temporary...my concern is more along the lines of the nuetral safety switch...diagrams show it, but it isn't there?

And as dumb as it is....the steering question.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

mdrinkwater said:

When the boat is on plane, I notice the steering is way better than when I idle along....while idling along, I feel like I am always correcting the boat, like a little steer left...then some right...back left...etc....is this normal? Or is the boat supposed to steer the same on plane or just idling along?

Click to expand...

This is generally normal from my perspective. But I don't claim to know why certain boats behave that way. My little 9.9hp fishing boat did not do that, my 40hp cedar runabout did do that, and my 20 foot 5L Glastron does it too.

I think if you move a weight to the stern it will idle along in more of a straight line

Chris

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

Smart Tabs will all but eliminate your low speed bow steer wandering. They will also give you much better flat acceleration out of the hole.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

You should have a neutral safety switch and that may be your issue among with other items(starter solenoid, slave solenoid). The fact that you wiggled your shifter and it allowed you to start proves you have the neutral safety switch. You may be able to take your shifter apart and find the safety switch and adjust its position or bend a tab on the switcg to make it operate correctly.

No, a fuel issue won't prevent a starter from operating. I was addressing your claim that at 30-35MPh your engine started dying out.

The wander you observe at idle is totally normal. No need to worry about it.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

bruceb58 said:

I was addressing your claim that at 30-35MPh your engine started dying out.

Click to expand...

Ok..sorry, I should have stated better....the 30-35mph is just for my own satisfaction that the boat actually went that fast....it ran like that for 4 hours or so before she broke down.

The nuetral saftey switch needs a couple wires to it....the control box has no wires, only the 2 shifter cables. The trim wires on the control handle don't go into the actual control box, they sort of shoot around it.

Glad to hear about the steering, and I do have control tabs that I installed (amazed they don't leak, and actually work) I haven't paid attention to what speed the boat planed, but I do know I was able to hold plane down to just under 20 mph. But then again...when I first got the boat, I couldn't even start it until someone showed me how....so I'm still learning to use the trim tabs.

Thanks again guys...much appreciated....now I need to find the nuetral safety switch...glad to hear jiggling the handle is a good tell!

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

Trace the starter wire from your igniton switch to see where it goes. It is supposed to go to your console shifter unless someone bypassed it. If they did bypass it, could be a bad connection where they connected the two wires together.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

bruceb58 said:

Trace the starter wire from your igniton switch to see where it goes. It is supposed to go to your console shifter unless someone bypassed it. If they did bypass it, could be a bad connection where they connected the two wires together.

Click to expand...

Had a very similar problem with my 5.7 litre omc, two simple things I had to do to resolve the issue, first was replace the main breaker. The second issue was the choke was not operating properly, the bi-metal spring or whatever it is must be getting worn out so had to adjust the choke to the closed position, while the engine was cold. Engine has not died on me since doing these two things.

Re: A couple more Dumb questions...

Thanks for the help guys....

I swapped all the guages and switches....dumped the inline fuses for a fuse panel, (also custom built new dash panels out of 1/4" cherry) this really helped with the guage accuracy...big help for a new boater.

Got done...the boat would crank but not start---a wire came undone (my fault) fixed it, she started right up.

I did notice that I was able to reproduce the lack of the starter working if I mess with the control handle...so this must be a neutral switch issue, I just haven't had time to chase it down.

I did take the boat out this weekend for the last time before I winterize and store it for winter, I noticed the boat is EXTREMELY hard to move out of forward gear, and into reverse, although it can be done, and everything works now.

I think part of the issue is the control handle itself..is pretty beat up, so I will get a new one over the winter and install it in the spring, and make sure the neutral saftey is connected correctly....I believe the other 2 switches near the carb are working correctly...the neutral switch may be working correctly as well, but the handle is goofey.

Other issue, I believe I am burning out ignition coils....the boat was converted to electronic ignition, and that means it needs a different coil right? But I am unsure exactly how it was converted to electronic ignition, I see a kit online for it, but it does not look like what I see in the distributor, the pick up...or whatever sits on the plate, is rivited onto it, so if it goes bad, I would need to replace the entire plate...the ones I see online, that piece screws on, and is replaceable.

Ideas?