Winterizing question

So I've been reading ALOT of threads about winterization and there is some GREAT information out there. I've done all the oil change, fogging, etc but after reading all the posts I feel that the flushing muff method that I've done is not adequate protection for the winter. First time boat owner and first time winterizing.

With regards to pouring "the pink stuff" down the hoses I also see the need to take the thermostat out and pour down there as well. Is this necessary? I would then need new gaskets to put back on? Is it possible to just pour "the pink stuff" down all the hoses to ensure the engine block is filled and protected?

Thanks in advance for your help

JACK

Re: Winterizing question

It may help out if we knew what engine and year you are winterizing?

Re: Winterizing question

Not sure what engine you have but i will assume your system is a GM V8 or similar open loop cooling

If you want to pour the pink stuff into your block you can often do it through the water pump hose.

If you do pull the thermostat as an extra precaution be sure to use the correct gasket as it has to provide a ground for the temp sensor in many cases.

I like to ensure to get some antifreeze into the waterpump and power sterring cooler in either case


Also you may want to consider adding the pink stuff while your block and exhaust plugs are still open-- after everything is drained -- you can verfiy that the fluid rate increases as you pour and that its pink.

By doing you get the following benefits;
--It verifies the drains are all working as expected and leaves antifreeze where you may have had resiidual water / and air in as many places as possible.
--It minimizes the area submerged in the pink Corrosive antifreeze over the winter
--It also can be done with less pink antifreeze ( 1- 2 gallons is plenty )


Of course many people just pull the plugs and don't use antifreeze at all with good success and that's aparently merc's recomandation on many of the open loop systems.

Good luck

Re: Winterizing question

With regards to pouring "the pink stuff" down the hoses I also see the need to take the thermostat out and pour down there as well. Is this necessary? I would then need new gaskets to put back on? Is it possible to just pour "the pink stuff" down all the hoses to ensure the engine block is filled and protected?

Click to expand...

Just drain the cooling system per the book, no need for antifreeze, air doesn't freeze a crack blocks and manifolds, water does.

Re: Winterizing question

Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1 said:

It may help out if we knew what engine and year you are winterizing?

Click to expand...

My bad. It's a Mercruiser 3.0. 2005 Bayliner 175. I disconnected the two blue hoses and saw ALOT of water drain out. Then I did the muff flush with the pink stuff. I'm just not sure I got enough through the system as I didn't see too much of it come out. I was coordinating with my father who was fogging at the same time.

Re: Winterizing question

wellcraft-classic210 said:

Not sure what engine you have but i will assume your system is a GM V8 or similar open loop cooling

If you want to pour the pink stuff into your block you can often do it through the water pump hose.

If you do pull the thermostat as an extra precaution be sure to use the correct gasket as it has to provide a ground for the temp sensor in many cases.

I like to ensure to get some antifreeze into the waterpump and power sterring cooler in either case


Also you may want to consider adding the pink stuff while your block and exhaust plugs are still open-- after everything is drained -- you can verfiy that the fluid rate increases as you pour and that its pink.

By doing you get the following benefits;
--It verifies the drains are all working as expected and leaves antifreeze where you may have had resiidual water / and air in as many places as possible.
--It minimizes the area submerged in the pink Corrosive antifreeze over the winter
--It also can be done with less pink antifreeze ( 1- 2 gallons is plenty )


Of course many people just pull the plugs and don't use antifreeze at all with good success and that's aparently merc's recomandation on many of the open loop systems.

Good luck

Click to expand...

Sorry, Mercruiser 3.0 on 2005 Bayliner 175. I am not a mechanic guy at all so some of the stuff above makes no sense to me. I need like a picture and tell me where to dump in the antifreeze. I am familiar with a few things from watching a cousin change my thermostat this year but when you say water pump and other things I just don't know. Thanks for the help

Re: Winterizing question

jackginaroberts said:

Sorry, Mercruiser 3.0 on 2005 Bayliner 175. I am not a mechanic guy at all so some of the stuff above makes no sense to me. I need like a picture and tell me where to dump in the antifreeze. I am familiar with a few things from watching a cousin change my thermostat this year but when you say water pump and other things I just don't know. Thanks for the help

Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,.... Head on up to the Adults Only section at the top of this forum...

in there you can find the service manual for yer motor...
In it, there's Lotsa pictures...

Re: Winterizing question

Thanks for the help. Anybody have a mercruiser 3.0 135HP 2005 Bayliner 175 with the two blue tubes that disconnect to drain the water? Anybody live in cold weather climate that just drained the water and didn't do any antifreeze. I live in Northeast PA and it gets cold. Just trying to get a comfort level from somebody with the same exact boat/engine and what they did for the winter with regards to antifreeze. Thanks again. Lots of great information on the site with a wealth of knowledge.

Re: Winterizing question

Remove those two blue hoses from the engine, and throw them away. Remove the hose fittings from the block and manifold, and throw them away. They may be called quick drain, but more problems than they are worth and can cost you and engine and manifold if they don't let all the water out, and the holes plug up in the block or manifold.
Now, stick a screw or nail in those holes in the engine and manifold, and make sure the holes are clear and all the water is out. Replace the hoses with a couple of regular brass pipe plugs. Pull the big hose off the engine circulation pump and let it drain. Put it back on.
Your engine is now freeze protected, and can not be damaged by freezing temps.

Not winterized by any stretch, but it won't be damaged by freezing temps.
Here is how you winterize your engine and drive completely. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=178695

Re: Winterizing question

jackginaroberts said:

Thanks for the help. Anybody have a mercruiser 3.0 135HP 2005 Bayliner 175 with the two blue tubes that disconnect to drain the water? Anybody live in cold weather climate that just drained the water and didn't do any antifreeze. I live in Northeast PA and it gets cold. Just trying to get a comfort level from somebody with the same exact boat/engine and what they did for the winter with regards to antifreeze. Thanks again. Lots of great information on the site with a wealth of knowledge.

Click to expand...

What state are you in? Here in MN we generally can claim the coldest temp in the country on any given winter day. A negative 40F ambient temp hardly makes us blink. That said, using antifreeze on an I/O simply isn't done. I'd put in a good analgy but I'll just say there is no need. Focus on learning how to properly drain the block and actually ensure it was completely drained.

Re: Winterizing question

I live in Manitoba, Canada, a bit more north than jkust and when it gets cold here, it gets cold here. Minus 30 -40 is normal nightime (and sometimes daytime) temps in the dead of winter. I've had my boat since new (1991) and i have done both the drain and fill with antifreeze and the drain the block and leave it scenario and have had no issues. So, as long as you get the water out, you'll be just fine.

I've seen the flushing muff method, but have never done it. I just pull the two plugs on port side, poke a coat hanger in their to make sure they're clear and let them drain out completely.

Re: Winterizing question

Thanks for all the help and advice. Lots of different opinions from many folks who know alot about boats, engines and the proper way to do things. I'm a newbie with the boat and not mechanically inclined but after much research I am now comfortable the the engine is drained from water AND I was able to fill it up with antifreeze(added pieced of mind). Followed the manual and poured the antifreeze through the thermostat and all the hoses. Replaced gaskets in thermostat and am now 100% confident about getting through the winter with no cracked block. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions. First year with the boat and we had a ball. Local lakes as well as Lake George and Keuka Lake in New York were some of the trips this year. Had a blast. Thanks again.

Re: Winterizing question

Don S said:

Now, stick a screw or nail in those holes in the engine and manifold, and make sure the holes are clear and all the water is out.

Click to expand...

poke a coat hanger in their to make sure they're clear and let them drain out completely.

Click to expand...

If you have them...I found that nothing beats a spare/old set of "Jewlers" screwdrivers to ream out the small drains. Different sizes, stiff, and easy to twist around.

Re: Winterizing question

Jack - I have the same boat (2005). My boat does not have fuel line shut offs. How did you shut off the flow of fuel to the engine?

Thanks,
Mike

Re: Winterizing question

Mike, if you have a question, start a new thread and ask it. (as suggested by the red warning bar) Jack hasn't even come back to the forum since his last reply in this thread.

Re: Winterizing question

Mike you will be better off starting a thread of your own.

[i see Don beat me to it!]