Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

In the morning I am going to look at my first fiberglass boat. I know to look for visible damage and to check the floors for solid feel. After that I am a babe in the woods and I don't want the big bad wolf to get me. What should I be looking at and checking?

I will add that I know the boat has been stored outside for at least a month or two. How long can they be store in the elements without damage?

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Soft spots in the floor, if the backside of the transom is visible, see if it's solid. Look on outside of transom and see if there is any visible fiberglass delamination from the inside out. If the floor is soft, it's a safe bet that the stringers are bad too. Interior condition is also a key player. I'v seen 40 year old boats with mint interior that have been covered/ stored since new and 10 year old Bayliners that have tattered seating with foam showing.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Being outside is not the problem - being covered or not is the issue. My boat spends all it's life outside, but always has a tonneau on when not in use, and shrink wrapped for winter storage. Check transom, floors etc and ask seller for maintenance records. How old is the boat? If it has been stored without a cover then check carefully for water damage.
Post details of the boat and maybe folks can be more specific on what to look for.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

It's still warm enough where you are to lake test ... get it out on the water. Watch the transom to see if there's any flex when you punch the throttle. Check the bilge for water flowing in. Make sure the outboard runs well at idle and WOT. Do a couple hole shots and make sure the motor does what it's supposed to ...


... don't break nuthin' tho.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Water should be on the outside not on the inside.

First thing when you get there, look under the Deck, (Ski Locker) and under the engine.
If there is standing water and a bunch of dirt/leaves/Nasty stuff; Big red flag!
If the inside of the boat is filled with leaves and doesn't look like it has been cleaned up for the open house; Big Red Flag.

If the owner isn't willing to make the boat presentable when he knows a buyer is coming to look at it, he likely didn't take very good care of it for himself.

You want a boat that make the owner feels like he is giving his daughter hand to you.
If he is just trying to get the thing out of the yard, consider yourself looking at a can of worms!

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Great replies.

I now have a little more information and would like some opinions. I looked and saw the following things. It is a Bomber bass boat that looks to have been built or reworked at some point for a tiller steer. One seat is in the back starboard corner and the other front center. Both pedestals are tight to the floor and the the floor had no soft spots that 270 ponds on one foot could find. The exterior hull has no major visible defects. There is one minor chip in the top coat about 1/4" x 1" at the keel near the front roller.

There was no access of any kind to the stringer area. It is built with a full capped floor over the hull and the sump / bilge area is a dip in the floor near the transom.

The only thing that I saw that concerned me was there appears to be some separation of the plywood layers at the top of the transom. The transom is study and did not move when pulled or shoved. I am of the opinion that a thorough drying, some construction adhesive and clamps could bind the layers together again and then a cap over to prevent any water entry. I won't be using a motor anywhere near capacity rating.

Should I walk or seriously consider this for $400.00 trailer included?

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Is the trailer in good condition? Roadworthy? If so that would be worth a couple hundred. Although you still have some unknowns re the boat's condition, you can't go far wrong for $400! Finding a good engine will cost you more than that.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

What year is the boat/motor? Length? Did you snap any pics? Does it run? Compression check? Sounds like the transom is coming apart. Your fix may work for a while, but at some point you'll probably need to replace it. $400 is cheap for a boat/motor/trailer, but it can get real expensive in a hurry if you have to throw a bunch of money at it right away....

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

No outboard, just boat and road worthy but not great trailer. I would most likely swap the trailer for the one under my tinny.

After doing a little web reading between posts, including here, I am thinking a 10hp isn't going to move this too fast.

Still pondering.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

No motor and it sounds like the trailer is marginal at best. Even if it's a 14'er, no, a 10hp isn't going to do it, especially the hull being fiberglass. I'm guess the hull is somewhere around an early 70's? Do you know? Everything I've read up to this point would make me hesitant to purchase it. I would look for a complete "running", w/good compression engine, package for a little more $. If it's going to be an older boat, I would also look for another tinny. Less potential issues with the hull...... JMO

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Taking a well versed boat person with you to learn the "Closing check list" is what I would do if I didn't have the list and skills to check. I did this 3 times before I felt comfortable doing my own inspections. Even the way a person keeps thier house comes into my deccission making when buying anything used. Avoid impulse buying, envision yourself selling this boat eventually, because that is a good bet to happen.

It is fall so just about everywhere, it's a buyers market, start at 60% of the asking price and dont be concerned about hurt feelings.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Most of the advice here does not apply to a $400 boat.

But be sure you have good titles to both.

And to answer one of your first questions, many boats do just fine stored outside for 20 years with no cover. it first depends on the boat and what it's made of, and then to whether it drained quickly and completely.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

UncleWillie said:

Water should be on the outside not on the inside.

First thing when you get there, look under the Deck, (Ski Locker) and under the engine.
If there is standing water and a bunch of dirt/leaves/Nasty stuff; Big red flag!
If the inside of the boat is filled with leaves and doesn't look like it has been cleaned up for the open house; Big Red Flag.

If the owner isn't willing to make the boat presentable when he knows a buyer is coming to look at it, he likely didn't take very good care of it for himself.

You want a boat that make the owner feels like he is giving his daughter hand to you.
If he is just trying to get the thing out of the yard, consider yourself looking at a can of worms!

Click to expand...

Ditto the above post. Wasted a 3hr drive to look at a Chris Craft cuddy. Pictures looked good but when we got there the floor was filthy, stuff left over from last fishing trip and a bottle of deet had leaked and melted a hole in the plastic dash. If people cant be bothered to make it presentable then they shouldnt have the toys.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

Hey colby: Most of the Bomber boats that I have seen in that size are a kind of tri-hull"ish" rig that were helms mounted mid-ship on the side. Those were a bit heavy for a 10HP. They were kinda' narrow beam and heavy (for their size). I'm thinking a 35 would be your minimum as most of them were rated for 50HP and up (I think).

I'm kinda' with Home Cookin' - for $400, your kinda' making sure you have a legal boat and seeing what you can do with it. You can probably recover at least half of that outta' the trailer if you go bust.

For fishing in Tennessee (and I'd assume KY, as well) I don't think you can go wrong with an aluminum jon boat, tiller steer outboard and a good set of oars (from the "for what it's worth" department )

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

For fishing in Tennessee (and I'd assume KY, as well) I don't think you can go wrong with an aluminum jon boat, tiller steer outboard and a good set of oars (from the "for what it's worth" department )

Click to expand...

Pretty much wound up reconfirming that and if I want to leave a tin boat out in the elements I don't have to worry about it.

Re: Buying a fiberglass boat -- how to not get done?

first place to check any bass type boat is to ask to remove the floor drain then stick your hand in the hole and fell the underside of the wood. if its glassed then its been replaced if it rough ply then its ok if its delaminated then its done.