1958 Scott-Atwater

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Picked up a 58' Atwater yesterday. I was running until it was stored without a sparkplug. I'm guessing moisture from the air got in and made some corrosion, couldve overheated I guess but I haven't checked the impeller yet. I was thinking of soaking the cylinder with PB blast or deep creep? I tried to pop the flywheel but it was stubborn. I left my puller on it and hit it with some pb. Is there a trick to these or should I try later? Says WICO electronics on top so I assume thats what I'll find underneath. Any thoughts? Thanks guys!
 

jim j geezer

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
189
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

With respect to pulling the flywheel...
I only recently learned a trick that, so far, has worked well: Tighten down the puller as you would normally. Then give the puller's tightening bolt one or two good whacks - straight down - with a hammer.
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

I almost tried this today...I think I'll try it tomorrow. I pulled the head cover off and found the cylinder to be in better shape than I thought. I had sprayed p into the cylinder a few days ago and took the impact driver to the thing. It actually freed up a little. I was able to see a little movement when I tried to turn the prop. I turned the motor so the cylinder faces up and filled it with marvel mystery oil. I'll let it soak a few days and see where its at. Is it a pain to pull the piston on these?
 

twocyclemania

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
505
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

The method suggested by jim j geezer is exactly what I do everytime. I wasn't aware there is another way of removing the flywheel other than a few motors (brands escape me) that don't have a 'lip' for the puller claws to grab (on the flywheel). They're another story. It's the method I've always used and always works. Once again you have to do it gingerly. A little tightening and a couple of whacks.

You say you have a little movement. Is it in the cylinders or just some play between the prop and the motor? If the cylinders are moving even the slightest you're almost home. Like opening a clam; once you're in there it's done. Good luck!
 
M

mrcrabs

Guest
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

I have found that Kroil is best so far for eatting through rust, be carefull with the hammer knock off method...on a engine like the Eska twin you might get away with that trick 2 or 3 times and then you shear the C clip that hold the bottom bearing in place and then your screwed....anytime you have a flywheel that is drilled for a 3 hole puller use it instead of beating the thing,....usally the Stubborn ones pop just when my back is turned and scares the crap out of me...lol never use a three jawed puller on a flywheel....
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Thought I would give a quick update on this. After LOTS of deep creep and liquid wrench, I was able to remove the piston and clean the cylinder really good. After that, it mated together perfectly and I was able to turn the flywheel by hand and too my surprise, the compression was near excellent. With everything moving again, I cleaned the carb really well and the cork float seems to be fine. Still havent managed to remove the flywheel and I suspect the flywheel bolt to be stripped. I think breaking or cutting it off and replacing it with another along with a couple spacers to alleviate the stripped thread area. I measured the plug boot with my meter and it jumped on up into the high volt range. I got an NGK b6l or b6s (i have both) but never got it to start. After a few pulls, I noticed puffs of exhaust coming from the port right under the cylinder. I assume this is a good sign. So, as of now I'm stuck. I imagine the point gap is off or maybe its the coil/condenser. Any thoughts? It was very fulfilling to free a seized motor, regardless if it starts or not...
 
M

mrcrabs

Guest
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

It was very fulfilling to free a seized motor
I know the feeling of succses:) and the pain of failure:(

With the old Atwater and the steering wheel type puller you want to get set up evenly with as much pressure on it as you can, then maybe a good rap or two with a 2Lb hammer on the puller, don't over do it or you bend the puller. then add some more pressure if you can....this may take a day or two??? if its that stuck, but stay with it, I know everybody has there favorite penatrating oil but after hearing about Kroil for a few years and of course being the doubting Thomas I am I finally bought a spray can of it, WoW....its the best IMHO she will get down there in that tapper on the crank no doubt, in recent weeks I have pullled 4 Atwater flywheels and two of them had not been off since 1946... they were rusted on but finally gave in to my heavy overhanded ways...hehehe
I suspect the flywheel bolt to be stripped
your are talking about the crank threads right?

On the flywheel nut best thing to do is chase the threads on the crank with a female chase ( you may have to go meteric ) and try and find a deeper grade 8 nut with the same thread size and then a washer and a dab of lock tight maybe?? or some 3m gasket sealer on the threads when it goes back on, I have seen a bunch of these cranks that looked stripped while I was searching for parts and they most all had nylon lock nuts & washers???, not sure if thats how I would go but thats what I have seen, I have fixed several Tecumseh crank threads with my method.
....its all fixable in my Opine....

F_R and the other vintage experts would know better than me on this subject as I'm just a padawan learner myself although I been beating around the scrap heep for 40 years ...lol

PS, watch out for horror frieght pullers, they will break bend and bust in your face, best to borrow a good one from the auto parts place.
some said a smack to the top edge of the flywheel helped distort the tapper enough under pressure to pop it but I have never had the guts to try, cutting one off will be a big chore when it comes to the steel female insert part. maybe best to just invest in a used powerhead
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Yes, I do think I mean the crank threads. The bolt no longer tightens any more than it is and will not come off either. It just turns and turns. I have a nut breaker and a good cutoff tool so I figured it wouldnt be that bad to remove the nut by force. So, you are saying that I pretty much need to re-tap the threads on the crank? That does make sense but I shudder at the thought of tracking down and purchasing an atwater powerhead....My father's friend is a marine mechanic and I am sending my 63' lightwin to him to fill and tap the head bolts, I'll see what advise he has on the atwater. I doubt he's ever even seen one as there really arent any around these parts (NC).
 
M

mrcrabs

Guest
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Ok I see, man I hope its just weak thread on the nut then, the crank thread are usally much tuffer than the nut.
I had the same issue you stated with tracking down a powerhead....where to find one??, but the scott guy has them http://www.scottatwaterinfo.com/ Don Webb, I think hes in New york state some place and I called him and he had my powerhead, he said he had 2500 outboards for parts and 5 tons of scott atwater parts .... however lucky leroy (me) stumbled into a like new complete 10hp 3835 powerhead for next to nothing on one of my Kentucky lake adventures, so there out there in numbers and prices vary...you may get lucky on that crank and nut and we sure hope so. good luck
 

quackpot

Cadet
Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

I'm watching this closely because I have a 7.5 firestone that is stuck. What size is the 58 I may have a nut. Bobby
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Welcome to the thread! My Atwater is 3.6 hp standard single. When I picked it up, I assumed it was a lost cause. It looked like it had been through battle in the trenches. Completely seized....Hearing that "putt-putt" of compression now is like music to the ears :) Good luck with it. It took several days of good penetrating oil and a little determination but once the piston was removed it was easy.
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Picked up another 58' in much better shape than mine and has good spark and compression. All I need to do is swap gas tanks and shrouds and I'm thinking I'll have a running Scottie on my hands. Thanks for the link to the powerhead, at least if all else fails they are available. On another note, I'm picking up a 68' Evinrude mate today that I'm pretty excited about. Headed to my stepfathers machine shop later this evening and getting my lightwin fixed up. I'll let you guys know what happens with the Atwater when I get there. Thanks again and I'll update soon!
 

TerribleCJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
36
Re: 1958 Scott-Atwater

Well, its official. I have an all original 1958 Scott Atwater that runs. After swapping my gas tank in and a new spark plug, the darn thing started on the very first pull! After I make some fuel delivery adjustments, it should be running like a top. I need to swap the fuel line and cinch it good to stop a superficial leak and then its all carb adjustment from there. Thanks everyone for following my thread and I look forward to getting the old girl out on the lake. Next step, my 1.5 hp mate!
 
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