Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

I have read every post regarding wiring a battery isolator but have failed to find one that addresses my specific question.
I know to run a wire from the batt term on the alt to the "A" post on the sure power isolator and then a wire from from the #1 post on the isolator to the main engine battery, then a wire from #2 post to the aux battery. My question is specific to Bayliner Capri's. In order to seperate the aux related electrical items from the engine power, where do I seperate the electrical field? What I want to do is power the lights, radio, fish finder etc from the aux battery leaving only the engine on the main battery.

Re: Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

samfrank said:

I have read every post regarding wiring a battery isolator but have failed to find one that addresses my specific question.
I know to run a wire from the batt term on the alt to the "A" post on the sure power isolator and then a wire from from the #1 post on the isolator to the main engine battery, then a wire from #2 post to the aux battery. My question is specific to Bayliner Capri's. In order to seperate the aux related electrical items from the engine power, where do I seperate the electrical field? What I want to do is power the lights, radio, fish finder etc from the aux battery leaving only the engine on the main battery.

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Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard Sam,.... Let's try this in the Electrical forum,....

Re: Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

hook battery 1 to #1 then battery 2 to #2 all cables must be the same size as the starter cables then run a cable between the negative posts of the batterys one battery will already be connected to the engine somewhere as a ground. run the main power cable from the a terminal

find the main supply to the fuse panel and move that to battery #2

always leave the switch on #1.

just for a note i think this is a bad idea as theres no need to seperate the pumps and lights which have a small amp draw from the starting battery especially as this set up will not allow the #2 battery to charge of the engine and having a flat battery on a bilge pump is worse than a flat starting battery. i prefer to hook everything to the A terminal then if theres ever a problem just switch to #2 and start the boat and your good to go with lights and pumps. unless you have a large stereo with amp i would surgest you think of why you have 2 batterys to start with.

Re: Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

glenn property of pam said:

find the main supply to the fuse panel and move that to battery #2

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That still leaves the engine on battery #1 since the main panel feeds the ignition.

I do agree its pretty pointless moving everyhting besides engine to a second battery on a small boat.

If you had a fridge or something that draws a lot of current, then its good to put that on a seperate battery.

Re: Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

:facepalm: ops thats a inboard.......thanks bruce..

Re: Bayliner Capri I/O 4.3 Batter Isolator

glenn property of pam said:

:facepalm: ops thats a inboard.......thanks bruce..

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Thanks for the great responses. I use this boat for night fishing on a river where the nav lights, cabin lights and high output floating nightlights are on for 6-8 hrs. It is disruptive to run the motor just to charge the battery. The bilge pump is wired directly to the main (presently only) battery and is not part of the main wiring harness. I think I might follow one of the suggestions here and trace the main fuse bus supply line back to it's origin then go from there to the new aux battery.
Thank you for all of your helpful recommendations