Racing to finish my first boat project help!!

Hghoover

Recruit
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
3
Hello I boaters,
I'm in a crunch to finish and get on the water for fall stripers on the Potomac.

This is my dad and i's old boat, powered by a sweet Johnson 30 tiller stear. It has been left in neglect and I just got to it, with cold closing in, my days to glass are limited. Motors fine, hull is going through massive redo.

On cutting out a squishy floor of the 14 ft open fiberglass Tri hull Manf mid 80's (amfab I believe), I discovered the center and only stringer, a piece of 1" wood "fiberglass encapsulated" was about 2/3 water rotted. Most likely from the large crack in the hull, directly on the stringer. I fixed that with a strip of heavy fiberglass run the length of the boat and poly glassed. Epoxy is to damn expensive, and I can't justify it for this project.

The crack and mitigated flooring had caused the flotation foam to waterlog. No wonder after a afternoon of fishing it was impossible to get onto plane with a 30. Great. So i Scooped it out. Empty clean boat. Ready to sink, or float, or could it be possible to bring this sucker back to life doing 30mph?

This is where the wise forum must please shed knowledge.

1. I have Cut the keel out,
what kind of wood to replace it? Pressure treated? Cedar? I currently have a 1x6x12 pressure treated decking board, fits perfect after cutting to fit. If its going to get glassed in does it matter? I'm going rest the new keel on a layer of fiberglass filler with short strand pieces of fiberglass in it, it's pretty thick stuff, the reason for this filler is there is an narrow voids the cut 1x6 won't fit down into.

2. Replacing the flotation foam
. It's not very deep area between hull and soon to be floor bottom, which will be a bit higher then the original, because I plan to rest new 1/4 pressure treated plywood floor on the lip that was left over from the original floor. That being said, is spray in great stuff ok? I will have pictures showings the depth of the area ranges. from 4-5" deep, in the front of the boat to as shallow as 1-1.5" in the stern. Should I use foam boards cut an laid? Stacking where nessacery. What about mixing my own foam? I don't have much more time for sanding down painful things like foam.

3. Can I add sand, texture to poly resin when I lay floor and glass it in? I don't plan on painting the new glassed floor, just adding color to my resin. Most likely a off white.

4. Is a planer board worth adding to the 30? They have one on cabelas for $100ish witH decent reviews. The boat will only have fishing gear and rarely 3 persons. I have removed a significant amount of weight in the waterlogged foam, I believe 30hp for 14ft open floor should be fine. Any recommendation on the pitch for the prop? 10x13 do me well ?

5. What about vinylester? Better for something like a keel replacement because it's less brittle then polyester resin? Should I add a Kevlar strip with epoxy to the center hull if I plan on beaching on small rock beaches? Or is that Kevlar epoxy mix a scam?

Thanks for the help dudes.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Racing to finish my first boat project help!!

1. Use 3/4" plywood regular, not treated for your stringer. Treated wood is wet from the pressure treating process and won't absorb the resin. Use PL adhesive to bed the bottom of the stringer to the hull before glassing. Install your stringer like this:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=384982&page=25&p=3586813#post3586813

2. Don't use the Great Stuff foam, it isn't closed cell. Order the 2 lb. density foam from here:
http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
Install it like this:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=510077&page=2

3. yes

4. You won't need it when you get your boat put back together, it'll be much lighter without the waterlogged decking and foam. you'll be surprised at how much better your boat will perform.

5. Stick with polyester, that is what your boat was made with and that's is what will adhere best to what's there.

You mention 1/4" decking? You need to use at least 1/2" but 5/8 or 3/4" would be even better.
 

Hghoover

Recruit
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
3
Re: Racing to finish my first boat project help!!

Boat wizards,
Awesome info, between oops! And that sea ray restoration by Friscoboater were my boat bible during the floor template and cutting, to mixing PB, stringer fitting and transom replacement.

A question, any hints on uploading pics with a iPad? This thing is kind of a toy but it's what I have at my convenience... and it won't read any images from my computer, nor copy and paste. I wish I could get those pics up the ease explanation...so for the mean time, it's time to be imaginative.

I have cut out the transom finding black compromised plywd.

I cut new templates of the transom, even had to steam bend 2 pieces of .5 in ply to fit the curvature of the transom. Used towels boiling water and some clamps to form them. Fun.

Reinstalled new transom with bed of PB and some wood clamps...

It looks strong as a champ, 2 layers of half inch ply spanning the transom, cut in a T shape, wide and short, laminated with csm between them. With addition .5 inch ply in the center of the T , laminated on with csm as well. 3 layers of lam in total in the transom plate area.

I have just skinned on the 1708 while the PB was still soft, and thought I pressed,rolled, saturated it enough....but as I'm watching it finish curing I have a decent amount what appear to be dry areas of the 1708. I am almost worried I didn't have wood well enough tacked up before adding a layer of 1708' the wood might have sucked the rez right out of my cloth!!

The inside corners where np, and even the outside corners of the top of the transom didn't offer to much problems with bubbling... Don't know how the he double ll that happened, but I'm stoked.

These dry areas.... It's to cold today to glass, I have 650 wtt Hal floor lights pointed on the outside of the transom for the duration of the evening after the transom skinning.

Can I simply scuff and wipe with acetone the dry areas and just reresin it before I finish the transom 1708 skin with a csm layer?

Can I just use a 8 inch tab of 1708 for tabbing in the new floor? I just want to use csm to overlay the floor. 1708 gets $$$.

I plan to add a couple spoon scoops of cabosil to resin I will paint on after skinning the floor to give it some strength, then fisinish the floor with waxed, pigmented, and texturized resin maybe gel coat.

Any recommendations on that recipe? Maybe texture rations for waxed resins? Or even if I should do multiple pigment coats finishing with one textured?

Thanks for the help iboaters,

Hoover
 

Trooper82

Commander
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
2,648
Re: Racing to finish my first boat project help!!

Hoover,

I'll answer what I can, just a DIYer here...so others may have better advice...

The dry areas on the 1708 should be ground out. I doubt you can get any resin into the mat now...I had a similar type situation...here and how I fixed it here

I used 6 or 8" strips of 1708 to tab the deck in, then 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM for the deck ...turned out good...not sure you would want to add cabosil to the resin on last coat on deck..if you use gelcoat it will be tough as cement..and you can add sand for traction if you want...I didn't...if you are going to roll the gelcoat...I would advise using PVA on it to let it cure...I tried using wax on my last layer rolling it, and it did not work out like I thought it would. Took weeks for the stuff not to be tacky..tacky as in I left hide off the bottom of my feet when walking on it days later barefoot!

As for the pics from an ipad..pretty sure you can upload to say photobucket from an ipad..then copy img links and paste in your thread...
 

Hghoover

Recruit
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
3
Re: Racing to finish my first boat project help!!

Thanks trooper!
Not as worried as I was before about the dry, it doesn't seem bubbled up, just not saturated. The flapper should make no problem of them.

Another layer of csm then after dry a bit of finish sanding and acetone and then a gel coat as you recommend. I like it. White transom green hull white interior, works for a fishing boat!

Hoover
 
Top